I just love the Japanese rail system.... in fact I love a lot of things about Japan! Comfortable, clean and on time, we arrived at Shirahama Station to find our names printed on a sign held by a woman we had never met. By the end of the week (actually by the end of the day) we were good friends.
Months ago, as Shane and I were planning this trip, I did some research on Wakayama Prefecture and the sacred trail known as the Kumano Kodo. For over 1000 years people from all levels of society, even Emperors, have made the pilgrimage to Kumano. We didn't have the time to do the entire walk but, with Yumi's help, we were able to explore a good part of this lush and rugged area once known as the "Land of the Gods". Followers of Shinto (the indigenous religion of Japan, a worship of many Gods), Buddhism and Shugendo (Literally: "the way to spiritual power through discipline" - a form of Buddhism which focuses on nature) have all walked these pathways as part of their journey of faith. More on this later....
Yumi, a friend of Mayumi's, had agreed to open her home to us for as long as we wanted before she had even met us. Did she know what she was in for? What about her husband and three kids??  
It didn't take long to feel that this unique Japanese house was a welcome place to call home. I was immediately taken by the design and the very efficient use of space.... and that was before we found out Yumi's husband was the architect. The living room (where we slept) was a tatami room with sliding doors. Patio doors in that room and the dining / play area gave a feeling of space and looked on to a small yard with vegetables, flowers, trees and a huge rock face giving privacy to the home. Every nook and cranny was built for storage. There was even a rope swing off the kitchen that tied off to look like part of the decor. Amazing.
Soon we were introduced to Shota and the fun began. What a character! So much like Goseke and similar in age.  
Now all this is going on with our poor Japanese and Yumi's high school English (along with her ever present dictionary and the translation app on my iPod). 
I learned just how quickly kids catch on when I heard Shota's frequent  "Oh No!!" every time he ran a train or car in to the wall. Somehow he would rattle on in Japanese and I honestly think I could understand him....might be the Grandma in me!  
Yumi dropped us off that afternoon at Saki-no-Yu Hot Spring with just a couple of snake towels (the Japanese use towels about 12" wide by 36" long at hot springs) and a promise to pick us up after she got the girls from school...at least that what we think she said?! So....we've just met this woman, we know where she lives but probably couldn't find the place if we had to, she has all our luggage in her home and we are about to separate (Shane in the mens side and me with the women) with only some cash in our pockets. What have we done??  
Saki-no-Yu has been well known in Japan for over 1,300 years and is truly unique. Once you've stripped off your clothing and wrapped the less than modest towel in strategic places for the short walk to the pool, you find yourself soaking in a beautiful open air rock bath overlooking the Pacific Ocean. What a great way to relax! 
Sure enough Yumi was waiting for us when we made our way to the parking lot. That's when we met Satsuki and Natsuki and Shane and I got in to Grandparent mode and just had fun. Though Shane was still fighting his cold (and I was starting to get one) we still were able to rag around with the kids. The six of us did a little sight seeing which included a short soak in a foot spa before driving to a photo stop of Engetsu-to Island to catch the sunset through the hole eroded in the centre.  
Back home we all settled in to our roles. Kids did their homework before playing with us. Yumi worked away on dinner (took me a couple of days before she'd let me help) and Hiraoki came home from work. Our evenings were very pleasant with all of us going to bed early.  
Now back to the Kumano Kodo. Yumi drove us to Takijiri-oji where we began our trek at "the passage in to the precincts of the Sacred Mountains". We rang the bell and clapped and bowed and did all the right things at the shrine before beginning the journey. Shota tried to follow us but soon realized he'd better go with mom. We walked up hundreds of stairs in the humid, sun filled morning. As I walked up those stairs I couldn't help but think of the thousands of people who have taken the same steps for their own reasons. In Bhutan we learned that the pain of pilgrimage is a way of atoning for sins. With the history of this area in mind I took each step over rocks and roots thinking of the thousands of people who have made their way through these beautiful mountains taking their own personal journey.  
Shane and I got off easy, however, as our journey only lasted a little over two hours. We met up with Yumi and Shota asleep in the car at Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area. Had a great lunch complete with a view of the valley below. Stunning!
That afternoon we drove (then walked) to Gyuba-doji Statue(s) which depict retired Emperor Kazan (968-1008) riding a cow and a horse. It is believed his was the first imperial pilgrimage to Kumano. Next stop was the Nonaka-no-Shimizu spring. This was the area where Hiraoki's father was raised. Then we climbed to the Toganoki-jaya Teahouse and the Hidehira-zaura cherry tree. The trees were said to have grown from a twig planted by a pilgrim who's wife had given birth (and left the baby) in a cave we passed near the beginning of our walk earlier this morning. Guess they were feeling guilty and wanted to pray for the child's well being. Legend has it the baby was cared for by wildlife and all was well in the end. Long day... time to go home and play with the kids!
There seems to be a lot of concern with the weather, specifically typhoons, in this region. As we drove along the riverside there was evidence of a number of washouts. In one area the side of a mountain wiped out the highway 3 years ago and still the road is diverted. It boggles the mind to even imagine the amount of concrete used to shore up the hillsides and protect the river banks and beaches. The Japanese have learned the hard way how to protect Wakayama from the elements. 
Shota was back to pre school the next day dressed in the cutest little uniform. Grandpa is looking after the kids after school which means Yumi, Shane and I don't have to rush home.  
Turns out Yumi had never seen the Gyuba-doji Statue so we began our day with the three of us walking to the site. We were all amazed to see a number of bright orange crabs on the trail.... must have been fresh water 'tree' crabs ?? out to enjoy the morning rain???!! From there Shane and I continued to walk (in what turned out to be one very, very wet day) along the trail to our meeting place back at the Cherry Tree / Teahouse. This was the first time we met others along the trail. They, however, were looking for a bus to keep them out of the rain. We slogged along quite proud of the fact we had on our good old Canadian rain gear. What we didn't figure was the heat. Ended up just as wet inside our gear as out. No wonder there are so many umbrellas for sale in Japan.... would have worked much better. 
We dried out over lunch choosing to continue our pilgrimage by car in the afternoon. At the first stop Shane went wandering away to take pictures of the river below a shrine dedicated to a princess who fell in love with a Buddhist priest that didn't feel the same way. Feeling pretty angry she turned herself in to a snake. Nasty stuff! Just as Yumi was telling me about the snake Shane came running up the hillside having just been startled by a very large snake by the river.... more nasty and strange goings on! The next two temples were beautiful but not nearly as exciting as the snake episode.  
We ended our pilgrimage with a visit to Inabane-oji a temple first recorded in 1109AD and considered as (another) starting point for the Kumano Kodo trail. Seems there are a few different trails that have been followed. I suppose if you think of the well over a thousand years this has been going on and the amount of erosion and natural shifting of the earth in this area of steep unstable mountains and bubbling natural hot springs.... it wouldn't be hard to imagine that different generations chose different paths. The interesting thing is that a number of religions consider this area sacred. It is one of only two religious walks (the other being the El Camino trail in Spain) recognized by World Heritage. In our world travels there have been a few sites that have truly touched my spirit. When your footsteps join others in history there is a kind of magic to it. Machu Pichu, Petra, Jerusalem, Easter Island and the Egyptian ruins in Sicily are a few of the places where I experienced a profound sense of wonder.  
Had a kick back time the next day enjoying Shirahama with Yumi playing tour guide. Her English was getting really good! We walked and laughed and took pictures. Visited all the sites including the famous white sand beach (which we found out was actually shipped in from Australia!!) and the Senjo-jiki rock plateau with waves crashing in creating a beautiful back drop. This was really a family day. So much so that we all headed off to the city onsen for our evening shower / bath and soak. Tomorrow we drive to Nyu-yamasemi Onsen where we meet up with Mayumi and family (and more new friends) for a big family weekend.