Back in Croatia we thought things would be more familiar. Easier to travel, find accommodation and food. Well things change in a month. Not only are the leaves turning and the tourists thinning out, so our our options. Pretty strange to turn up at a seaside town for lunch only to find they "haven't had food for two weeks". Took me a minute to realize they weren't going hungry, they just didn't serve meals until next tourist season. Again we were glad we had enough food in our stash to ward off starvation.
Our decision to drive along the coastline north was a good one. Some of the coast we had seen from a bus, some from a sailboat and the rest was new to us. We spent a night in Primosten, yet another delightful walled city. Strange though. The place we rented was up the hill from the old city. When we arrived no one was there. Seriously, no one. The door was open with the keys on the lock. The bar door was open with all the refreshments there for the taking and even the apartments were unlocked. Being off season we were the only guests. Shane looked at the desk and there was our information from booking.com so it was the right place. So we left a note on the desk and walked in to town for a delicious meal of stuffed squid (as well as a nice cold beer). Them anger was there when we returned ... no problem... life is pretty laid back in this part of the world.
The next day we drove north to Karlobag before heading inland to our destination for the next two nights - Plotvice Lakes provincial Park....one known as "the garden of the Devil".
Having led the rocky, unforgiving, narrow twisty waterfront roads behind and successfully negotiated the switchbacks that made it possible to reach the interior it was somewhat disconcerting to read about the history of this part of Croatia. We came to view the stunning travertine waterfalls in the park (which 1 million people a year also come to see) only to be silenced as we drove through the countryside dotted with the shattered remains of people's dreams. This was an area where 250,000 people were displaced and thousands killed during the war of independence. This is an area where history has shown the locals have been fiercely independent for hundreds of years. Some say the war of independence began here with secret talks. Certainly the area is important not only for it's tourism value but for the crop land.
The park was beautiful in the misty fog with the trees in shades of gold and red ...and the travertine waterfalls truly unique but the lasting memory for me will be the story of the struggles, ethnic cleansing...the loss & resiliency of the people.
Fog greeted us again the next day as we left for a town near the Zagreb airport, the last leg with our rental car. With all day to go 126 kilometres we took a few detours. First stop was a visit to Slunj. Here they have harnessed the force of water to power mills. That's not really unique. What is strange is that the town has managed to build itself up, over, around and through the rivers. Travertine is constantly being built up which means the water courses are always changing. Somehow the old stone houses have held their ground for hundreds of years. Talk about waterfront property!
The detour we took hugged the border of Bosnia Herzagovenia for about 10 kilometres. You could literally throw a stone across the creek in the unprotected countryside. There were very few border police. Seems strange when you think about the EU and the hassles we had at other crossings.
Beautiful rolling countryside, hundreds of corn fields and potatoe patches finally gave way to the city. Our very confused GPS (needs to be updated) got us thoroughly lost. Thank God for apps on the iPad!!
The Cool Hotel had a Cool bar as well as a Cool sport betting hang out. If you wanted to you could walk to the airport from this 'cool' place. In spite of all the extras the rooms were clean and quiet.
Taking back the car I'm one piece is always good though I'll miss the freedom.
Zagreb airport is small, functional and has a lovely park proving to be a good introduction to the city.
The main route to town has a number of green spaces as well. On fact Zagreb itself is a lovely city with parks, promenades and beautiful old buildings. It's small enough to thoroughly get you head around in a couple of days. The apartment we rented is in an old building within 5 minutes walk of the main square.
If you arrive by train you will immediately be struck by the open plaza and lovely flower filled parks that you follow up towards the old centre of town. The spires of the cathedral tower above everything offering an easy way to keep from getting lost. Numerous art galleries and museums tell their stories both new and old. They have an award winning museum here called the "museum of Broken Relationships". Innovative and strange it appeared to be not much more than a coffee shop and gift store offering ways to take comfort when a relationship derails.
It seems the locals love to sit and chat over a coffee or a drink at any one of the hundreds of outdoor cafés. It is so easy to melt in to that way of life. Listening to street buskers while watching the world go by is a great way to spend the day.
We saw all the sights walking many kilometres
Up and down hill more than once. Zagreb city centre isn't huge, it is comfortable, clean and entertaining.
I think it was fitting that our last day in Croatia was on their Independence Day. After our journey and research in to the former Yugoslavia, it's good to make this thriving city our last stop.
Before leaving, however, I would be remiss if I neglected to mention the hundreds of red VW Golf cars (circa 1990's) driven by aggressive men with attitude throughout the country. There must have been a fire sale of these cars. Even the newer vintage is popular though not driven as badly.
Did I mention all the road side stands selling grappa (liquor) in old pop bottles along with honey and preserves?
From sailing the coastline to driving the coast to ancient cities and mountain peaks...this has been one of those journeys that is more than a holiday. A collection of experiences that will take time to sort out.
So, 7:25 am we are on the train to Vienna. Border check at Donovan.
Passport check..under seat check...all OK?
Check!
Nope...new check. "When are you going home? How long are you in Europe? From Vancouver? Nope...Kelowna...close"
Check?
Nope...he walks away with our passports then back with the passports and a big smile "Good bye!"
One unfortunate passenger got kicked off. He was told: "can't enter for 3 months...take your stuff and go!"
Thankfully that wasn't us.