From almost snow to full sun, calm winds to raging white caps... a typical few days (apparently) in Southern Patagonia.
Fortunately Navimag Ferry left on the day it was supposed to... if not the correct hour. The few weeks before us had seen delays from high winds, broken boats and even a the captain having a heart attack. We were "So Lucky Passengers" because our crossing was pretty smooth. The ferry was to leave at 4PM but didn´t arrive in port till 1PM. By 7:30 we were loaded and on our way.
The good news is they gave us a 4 person room to ourselves. The bad news is that we needed all that space just to find our stuff. I can´t imagine how 4 people function in one of those tiny rooms!?
The sun was shining as we left Puerto Montte. As we cruise along the passage there are many volcanos visible as well as distant glaciars and snow capped peaks. Sharp mountains look like pyramids and others look like spikes sticking straight out of the glaciar. Just a taste of things to come.  
With no window in our little room we felt kind of cheated when we woke up and it was already 8AM. Like any cruise ship you wake up to an info-mercial about our weather and when breakfast will be served. Blah Blah Blah
After breakfast (and you have stored your trays like you are told to) we were treated to a briefing about our route... what to do... what to expect... and what not to do (like drink to excess and run naked around the deck like the last group did!).
Later there was a film about the indigenous tribe of the Puerto Eden area (a town we stop in the next day). Like indigenous tribes everywhere Europeans brought disease, religion and dubious civilization (read alcohol) in to destroy a way of life that had been harmonious for many years. These people were actually able to swim naked in these freezing waters to hunt for shellfish, their only diet.
The coastal mountains are not as spectacular here as back home in BC.  It is much like sailing through the gulf islands.  
There is little sea life here. It seems strange to travel along this coastline and see only a couple of fish farms and a few birds. It isn´t until we get closer to Puerto Natales that we see any dolphins or even sign of seaweed. Very strange compared to our province.  Especially when you look at the latitudes.
The second night we are warned of the high seas. The Gulf of Penas is where the boat often gets delayed while waiting for a calm passage. We were armed with gravol ready to go when needed but found it wasn´t necessary. At one point I woke up thinking we had stopped it was so calm. This is the chief reason our guide called us "So Lucky Passengers"  The poor old doctor had nothing to do.  We had heard from so many former passengers that there were only 5 or 10 people at breakfast the morning after this crossing.  Navimag certainly didn´t save any money on food with our group.
The rains in the night were so heavy that the decks were a lake in the morning. Sloshing woke me up in the night as the ship pitched a bit in the waves.
We pulled in to Puerto Eden early afternoon. A colourful little village of about 180 people. Many small boats came to pick up supplies and drop off passengers. The rest of the day was sunny, windy and enjoyable as we passed hundreds of islands. With glaciars in the background and fast melting snow. The rocky faces of the mountains are covered in rivulets that eventually merge becoming giant waterfalls. Beautiful to see.
The last evening was billed as Pisco Sour Hour and Beeeen-goh (bingo) night. If you win at bingo you have to do a little dance... Martine won and was determined that I would have to dance as well. No such luck!!
The last day started off cold and snowing then turned in to a sunny calm afternoon. We went past a hanging glaciar at breakfast time then, along the way, went through a passage only 80 feet wide. It really was amazing to see how the ferry could maneuver through the narrow passages with hundreds of islands.
Dolphins followed us through the narrows. As we approached Puerto Natales we were surprised to see the flat plains. Wind was calm while we docked then kicked up terribly as the unloading process started. Walking down the narrow steps with my big backpack I felt like I would be swept overboard.
Now comes the quest for a bus. It was pretty tight getting off the ship and on to the only bus we could get to connect to the catamaran in Torres del Paine. But that´s for the next entry
So, what can we say about Navimag. It was interesting to see the coast line and it was relaxing sitting on deck reading with the amazing glaciars as background. But as for value... we just didn´t think it was worth it. It was part of our journey but we have told people we met who were disappointed that they hadn´t booked the trip that what they saw by bus was probably as good or better.
Still and all we met some wonderful people and had a good experience.... and are "So Lucky People"