The journey from Punta Aranas to Chiloe (chill-oh-ay) Island was pretty straightforward.... no side of the road drop offs this time. Saw lots of penguins and sea lions on the ferry crossing.
When we arrived in Castro (a town in the center of the island) we had no map and little functioning sense of direction. Good thing it is easy to find the plaza. Usually they are next to the Church which was the case here. However, our guide book said there was a tourist information center there which was always open. This proved to be wrong. In the four days we´ve spent here we have never seen the door open. Anyway.... again using hand gestures and pigeon Spanish we found the Mirador Hostal where we are now nicely settled.   Our room overlooks the harbor and is actually not too cold.
I shouldn´t be too hard on this part of the world. We have certainly had our share of cold weather (at one point even hail) but we have also gone out in short sleeves and had to wear sun glasses. It is summer here after all.
Our friends Martine and Jean Pierre met us here and we rented a car for three days. It took us about an hour to go over the fine print before we were on our way. The first day we just travelled north along the coastline. We found ourselves on gravel roads that reminded us all of Ireland. Green and growing with grazing cattle and sheep. Took a few trips down roads we weren´t comfortable with and turned back. On the map they said paved when they weren´t and were when the map said the weren´t. Crazy!
Found some very quaint places & got great pictures. At Quemchi we bought the local specialty for lunch. A selection of shellfish, meats and potatoes with a smokey kind of fish broth. Interesting is the best word to describe it.
At the end of the day we found a botanical garden on an island. There was an old church in the clearing surrounded by distinctly named tree and shrubs. Black necked swans swam nearby. Beautiful ending to a peaceful day.
Day 2 found the weather had closed in with heavy rain in the morning. In pretty good spirits we headed for the wild side of the island. The Pacific Ocean greated us with huge surf and wild winds. Guess we were too busy looking at the surf to notice the road so we got royally stuck in the fine sand. Took us about an hour to get out. A brief respite from the rain helped us get some control. We looked pretty funny in full rain gear on our knees digging out the sand. Finally manged to jack up the car, raise the wheels and get out. By then the rain had come and gone again. It was clear as we walked down the beach. Waves thundering against the shore. Sheep and cattle grazing in the park. Hills with trees distorted from the winds, heavily brushed with yellow lupins, gorse and a spiny rhubarb like plant. Rough and wild this is the west coast!
Had a great lunch at the American Restaurant in the town by the turn off to the park.... for anyone reading this blog this is the place to eat....fresh salmon and wonderful paille soup. Clean and friendly for sure!!

Constantly taking clothes off and on as the weather went from full sun, cloudy, rainy and evey hail. The only constant was the wind off the ocean. You could spread your arms, lean back and the wind would hold you up.

Day 3 we woke to bright sun which continued throughout the day. Went north this time to the tip of Chiloe. Just to the west are a group of islands where pelicans nest. The Islutes de Purihue are nestled in a picturesque cove with a wide sandy beach.
The drive took us past familiar territory to the town of Ancud. Once an outpost that defended Spain`s Pacific coastline from foreigners, Ancud is now a sleepy fishing village with the dubious distinction of being Chiloe`s largest town.
The road followed the ocean before cutting inland through steep farmland. Wouldn´t want to ride a bicycle here!
Down to the beach where young entrepreneurs tried to get us in to their father`s fishing boats for a visit to the penguins. The first boy wanted 7,000pesos per person ($14). On the beach we were able to negotiate 3,000pesos per person.   Dressed up in chest waders and brand new lifejackets ( could have used those on the Amazon) we climbed aboard to view Humboldt and Magellanic penguins. The seas are sure high here! Even in this bay with some protection they were coming at us at about 2 meters.
It was another perfect day. Hard to get off that beach. We wandered around looking at tide pools and enjoying the sun.
Tomorrow we head back to Punta Varas for chapter 2 of that story. On Monday we board Navimag for a four day trip to Puerto Natales. We arrive there on Dec 20 then head directly to Torres del Paine. There may not be any internet access until Dec 23.
So.... for all my friends and family I wish you a very Blessed and Happy Christmas. We will be celebrating in Punta Arenas, God willing and busses running.