The last blog entry was rushed which meant I missed some important things, not the least of which was the story of the Gypsies
They are both loved and hated but most of all tolerated in Bulgaria and Romania. Gypsy music plays a big part in the tourist industry as well as the local culture but the Gypsies themselves do not seem to profit. The word Gypsy means people without a country (or so we were told). They have been treated as slaves for centuries which is why they continue to have a chip on their shoulder. Basically they don't rust anyone, not even each other. Very few of them are wealthy. Actually very few of them are gainfully employed (which translates to:  'pay taxes'). there are still places where they cut off the thumb of their right hand in order to gain easy access for pick pocketing. Another disturbing tradition is the auctions they have to marry off girls as young as 10 or 12 years old. The children are encouraged to go to school but it seems the parents don't trust the system. It is a big problem! It doesn't help that the Gypsies have darker skin and dress differently (bright flowered clothing for the women). Every time the subject was brought up the different tour guides rolled their eyes, took a deep breath and tried, once again, to make sense of the 'problem'.
Forty-two years ago, while driving near the border of Yugoslavia, Shane and I had a flat tire in our van. As we were struggling to fix the tire a band of Gypsies stopped and offered to help. They did all the work then offered to take us to their home for coffee all the while telling us they were "good Gipsies". We were young and trusting and I am so glad. I have very fond memories of the two of us sitting in a kind of living room facing about 20 people while they fed us the most awful, thick, nasty coffee I have ever tasted. One little boy went in and out of the room, each time returning with someone new. We finally realized that he was making money by bringing kids in to see us in his family home for a fee. We never felt threatened and left full of coffee and a good feeling for the good Gypsies of Europe. Glad we had that experience because, after listening to the guides in Bulgaria and Romania, we left with the impression that no one had a warm fuzzy feeling for them.
Another thing I forgot to mention in this blog was the amazing rock fortress near the town of Belogradchik (which literally means: small white town). I wasn't sure what to expect as we boarded the bus in Vidin, Romania. The countryside was lush and alive with fall colours twinkling in the Autumn sun as the bus made it's way to a destination we knew little about. The Fortress was a complete surprise to me. Kind of like a mini Cappadocia, these craggy spires poke up all through the surrounding countryside. I love to see a fortress built in to the existing rock formations! The unusual shape of the castle is a result of the Romans taking advantage of the terrain to create a well fortified lookout. Turns out the Ottoman Turks liked the place too and included it in their list of conquests.
Had a lot of fun climbing up to all the view points trying to figure out where Shane and Ruth and Larry were! We'd see each other across the chasm then take pictures to prove we'd been there.
Then there is the whole issue of Translyvania and the count who wasn't a count at all. He was just a nasty guy who impaled people he didn't like on a pike pole driving it up through their private parts and letting them hang out until they bled to death. Apparently the villagers saw these pale people without blood and a small hole on their neck (from the tip of the pole) and spread a rumour that Dracula and his wife must have sucked the life out of them. An oft repeated story can get out of control.... especially when Hollywood gets a hold of it!