Mt Marum - the volcano hike finally came. There has been many set backs getting to this point. We originally planned to go to a volcano on Tanna but it had turned nasty and people were being evacuated. Two plane cancellations meant that we had to do the hike straight away - of course the electrical storm and flooding b*****ed that up. After the usual communication issues trying to change flights - we had good weather but no guide and then bad weather and a guide. We decided God was trying to tell us something.

Expectations lowered and with the onset of sunny rain we set off. Adam the second guide went first carrying our tent, a massive mashette and very little else.

At first the mashette was used to remove coco nuts from the path as we headed through palm trees. This is the most dangerous part of the journey Adam explained as he pointed to the coco nuts high above our heads. The danger, danger theme was used a lot to warn of slippery rocks etc.

We eventually hit an wide old lava river that made for good progress but with little to keep Adam happy with his machette. He had the occasional swing at a branch that prevented the shortest possible route but it did seem to be just to pass the time.

The vegetation on either side of the steep banks was incredible. The route along the lava river soon started to take on a new pattern: long flat sections with vertical rock sections often with small waterfalls. We either climbed or took a route through the jungle. Standing at least a meter behind we watched Adams machette wirl into action with devastating efficiency.

After many gorges and waterfalls we took a steep track that led to a ridge. The jungle was so dense you did not notice how narrow it was (about two foot).

As we got closer to the ash plains and camp I started to feel nausious, weak and dizzy. I put it down to not eating well here. I had a cerial bar saved for the next day and hoped for the best.

The steep jungle stopped and the horizontal sterile ash plain lay ahead with the volcanos rising in the distance. The transition was instantaneous, dense jungle to open space.

The view quickly dissappeared as storm force winds blew rain at us. We hurried towards the nearby palm leaf hut only to find it flattend. Luckily there was another one further on that we could use to get a camp fire and boil some drinking water.

The tents were put up on rough ground. We did not have sleeping bags or a mat to lay on. I was feeling extremely weak, I flopped inside and did not come out. Both my hands had pins and needles and were numb but it was not that cold. That night was the most uncomfortable we have ever had.

The next day the rain was still coming down. I was feeling very weak, and was certain I was coming down with something. Liz also was not feeling well and had the pins and needles feeling in her hands. To play safe we agreed to cut out everything except the molten lava lake.

Off we went into the rain and cloud, passing recent lava flows. Climbing up to the crater you could hear the rumblings of the volcano. Unfortunetly looking down the sheer crater all we could see was steam due to all the rain. However we were only 60m from a lava lake that sounded like waves but with very deep bass.

It was like hell, the fumes stung your eyes, super heated winds swirled around and the glimpses of sterile rocks as clouds parted was very daunting.

John was gutted that we did not see the lake so he offered to take me to another one, whilst Liz went back to camp. I set off with John but soon turned back - I was feeling very weak.

I got back to camp just after Liz, they had been caught up in heavy smoke from the volcano and had to wait until they could see the markers.

Going down the rain turned into frequent showers offering views of the islands. I was feeling dizzy and had to take frequent breaks. Liz was feeling a bit better. The last stages of the route seemed to go on forever, I was by this stage sitting on mud when I simply had to stop for a rest.

When I got back I washed myself from the bucket and colapsed into bed. The fever hit me straight away, cold shakes followed by hot sweats. I have never felt so weak, I could hardly lift my head. Liz seemed to have the same symptoms but milder.

I had a delusional night, I sweated that much I drank most of a two liter bottle of water with two rehydration sachets mixed in. During the night I could hear the football, the village has finally got the technician over. Incidently Liz had been talking to the chief who said England beat Germany - never ask a question to a local where the answer is either Yes or No. After that the cockerals started, normally I sleep through them but being too weak to get my ear plugs I had to listen to them. By morning I wanted to kill on sight.

Me and Liz are still very weak but getting better. I took the opportunity of a clear sky to walk outside to see the volcano light the sky.

We have both been trying to weigh up the unique experience of seeing an active volcano in a remote part of the world against the hardship that goes with it. My view is that you remember the experience and put behind you the discomfort - however we are desparate for civilisation again.