The alarm rang at 6am, although it was not needed as an army of cockrels were doing their pre pre dawn practice wake up calls.

There was an electric storm all through the night and is still going on. The deep deafening rumbles and being on a volcanic island does play havoc with your imagination.

John Tasso (the guide) didn't think it would be a good idea to go up the volcano so we are staying put. Due to the flight cancellations we missed the good weather window (the weather forecast had thunder and lightening for a week). I now have to make a decision on moving the flight or missing the volcano (the main reason for coming here).

John had been up most of the night trying to get the satellite TV to work in the village hut (blog picture). Without knowing the exact location of the satellite and not having Internet it is going to be very tricky. A more pressing issue for John is that his daughter is unwell and there are no doctors here.

John has just come in to say that there is a big flood. What I thought was the sound of waves (we are nr the sea) is infact a flood coming down from the volcano. He also said that the only road out is underwater (I like easy decisions - we are going nowhere).

Floods don't happen much on an island that is essentially porous. The road flood turned out to be a big puddle and the flood coming down the mountain you could easily walk across without getting your knees wet.

The beach as I expected is jet black but a lot prettier than I thought. Large trees that had found the soil washed from under them lay across the beach devoid of bark (good photo opp). My impression was that Port Vatu had a port, there is nothing. A look at the map indicated that there was a safe anchor place but this as much as you get here.

A decision had to be made, unless we moved the flights we only had time to do the volcano in a single day 10 hours ( if at all). The only flights available were 10 days later and would mean paying to move the flight to Sydney. This place is not the Hilton, could we last 10 days being vegetarian on an island where vegetables are out of season! Incidently the only shop is a bit vegetarian unfriendly: only bread, rice, peanut butter and bubble gum. I only saw three types of tins and these had meat in.

It was a tough decision that I had to make there and then - should we go or stay for a long time. I was using Johns phone (as the only public one doesn't work). Not knowing if the credit was going to run out I moved the international flight and then the domestic flight. We are staying 10 days in Ambrym.

The decision to stay played heavily in my mind, Liz is well below her comfort level, thank god there are no mutant insects like at Lonnoc.

The decision to stay longer also meant that we had to brave the bucket shower. It is not the bucket but the shower that is a bit 'rustic'.

The Karva night finally came, this is what all the locals drink in the south pacific. It is made from the Karva root and you should only drink it on an empty stomach (the main reason why it has not happend already).

Taste: can do better;
Sensations: mouth numming
After effects: makes you feel relaxed

Karva is scooped out of some dubious looking buckets on a table in the village hut. Karva is universally advertised by a red or amber light outside (or in this case inside). The one thing that was off putting was the constant hacking and then spitting onto the earth floor. I started to say "Tung" after every "Ach" they hacked up (much to the amusmement of the locals).

John bought the first one and the locals the second. Third was being planed when I had to go back for rice and some vegetables - that I have not seen before and baked beans that we brought.

A land dispute is now stopping us going up the volcano tomorrow, is God trying to tell us something!