So we have arrived in Kathmandu after our overland adventure through Tibet to Nepal. There have been highs (over 5200m) and lows (below -10c) but we have enjoyed the last wee while with our new pals Tsetan and Tenzin. We left Lhasa on the 27th and headed off in the Yak mobile to Gyantse, enroute we drove up to the Kamba-La pass (about 4900m) where we got a very nice view of Yamdrok Lake, the water was an incredible turquoise colour and we were amused by how much the hills/mountains looked like sunny Scotland except much higher and with Yaks rather than cows. We arrived in Gyantse which is a small Town and went to visit the monastery (which was mostly unaffected by the cultural revolution) and the Kumbum; the 100,000 images Stupa which is the largest Chorten in Tibet. We went to nearly the top and had great views over the surrounding mountains and Gyantse Fort.
On the next day we drove just 90km or so to Shigatse and visited the monastery here it is the home of the Panchen Lama (both of them!!). It is a really big monastery and we saw the monks making butter statues as offerings to the Buddhas. The monastery was built on a site where they used to do sky burials and has lots of amazing statues and stupas to look at. Again we learnt loads about Tibetans and Budhism.
The 29th we mainly just drove onto Shegar passing over the Gyatso-La pass at 5200m; we actually saw a couple peopLe cycling up here; mental!!! We also got to see our first view of Everest and were lucky as there were no clouds around the top. At out hotel (well it wasnt really a hotel but we will call it that) there was no water; neither hot nor cold so we got a bucket! Also there was no heating so we had a chilly night ahead of us and we tried to spend most of our time in the attached restaurant/ bar/ cinema/ hang out place as there was a nice stove and lots of hot cups of tea, however some spy cops did come in, but all the locals were really nice and friendly.
Woke on the 30th after a suprisingly ok nights sleep. We decided to go up and down to Everest today rather than freezing our butts and staying the night up there (the base camp not the top). Passed through a few checkpoints and headed up a bumpy road to the Gyalpola pass where we got the most amazing views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and others, and again we were lucky as there was no clouds. We drove down the pass and then on towards Rongbuk monastery next to the base camp. The monastery is the highest monastery in the world. We got our pics here and then Tsetan asked if we wanted to go up, we guessed he meant to base camp rather than the top of Everest so we agreed. Normally cars are not allowed to go up the final 8km to base camp and you normally have to get a shuttle bus, but as it was out of season there was no bus so our driver risked driving us up and luckily the military were ok with us going up. So we made it to base camp and climbed a hill which nearly killed us. Unfortunately the summit had was covered in cloud but we had the whole of the camp to ourselves (and the 2 military chaps) and the view of a lifetime. We headed down to Tingri on a road that wasnt really a road more a yak track but our 4x4 made it with our skilled driver Tenzin. We arrived in Tingri and as a word or advice if anyone ever offers you a free holiday to Tingri it is best to decline. The town itself we did not see much of as once the gates were closed where we were staying we werent venturing out as there was more stray dogs than humans it was all a bit creepy, and Tsetan told us about dogs that ate humans in Tibet (true story) because they ate the bodies of the dead at sky burials and got used to the taste of human flesh. Again no water and no heating oh and no electricity either and stayed in what Mark described as the Marshalls garage. It was a pretty cold night.
On the 31st we drove down from the Tibetan plateau to Zhangamu which is on the border with Nepal, it was strange seeing greenery and trees. We went out for dinner with Tsetan who then took us to a night club to sample the Tibetan night life he promised us Michael Jackson dancing and all we got was a minature George Michael and his wee pal who tried to get Jane to buy him a sprite; apparently kids are allowed in clubs in Tibet even if they are about 12! Also the smoke machine was incense!
The next morning (our last in Tibet and a sad day) we drove to the border crossing and had to say goodbye to Tenzin and Tsetan (who we love) it was all very sad. We crossed over the Friendship Bridge into Nepal; it is amazing how crossing a single line in the middle of a bridge took you into the total chaos of Nepal after the order of China, we struggled finding our driver and had to wait a while and once tracked him down we headed on the 3 hour bumpy journey in a car with no suspension and its exhaust dragging along the ground to Kathmandu which is where we are now!!
Just having a few days relaxing now and trying to get over our colds.