Well I survived the famous InterIslander crossing... mainly by catching up on the sleep I had missed the night before worrying I would not hear the alarm and about the crossing itself. The morning was foggy and the water much calmer than the day before. The Kaitaki Ferry was huge, I think there were 10 levels, I chose the highest level for a passenger without a cabin - level 8. Might thought process went something like this, if the waves cover the windows on level 8 - we got trouble ! Luckily they did not and the extreme tiredness caused by not sleeping was relieved by me reclining in my luxury seat surrounded by "just incase one is not enough" sick bags. I woke up as we entered the Marlborough sounds, to see the Fjord and a relatively calm sea. I decided that as the Tasman had only thrown a few rock and rolls my way, and I had not thrown up I would treat my self the veggie sandwich option - egg mayo. Refreshed and feeling just a tad smug we disembarked at Picton, a tiny port and headed south on Highway 1. This is the thing I really love about New Zealand, it is really difficult to get lost. To get from Auckland to Christchurch you stay on the SH1. Even with my notoriously bad navigation skills I have not had to make a U-turn yet! The weather on the South Island was wet and windy and as I headed down the coastal road, I was reminded why there were warnings for high sided vehicles to take it easy. The round was very winding and banked by sheer cliffs on one side and the rocky beaches on the other. Hairpin bend after hair pin bend coupled with horizontal rain and gale force winds meant that the trip took a little longer than initially expected but I reached Christchurch with threats of more bad weather on the radio. So I went to sleep tired but happy that I had survived the ferry crossing and made it to Christchurch. I woke up very excited to find me and my campervan in the middle of a snow storm. Only the 3rd time in 100 years Christchurch has had snow in September,. Ten cm fell in a few hours, the short drive to drop the camper van was excitement enough for the one day, but the taxi ride into town was a white knuckle ride. I was driven by a 50 year old Russian from Siberia. Who spent most of the trip telling my how good he was at driving in these conditions, whilst nearly driving into the rear of any other fools who had ventured out. Then he told me that with my seat belt on and the love of Jesus Chirst I would be fine.... I could not get out of that cab fast enough. As the YHA was smack bang in the centre of town I ventured out, dressed in beany, fleece and gloves. By the time I had walked 10metres my jeans were soaked and it was evident that Christchurch had shut down. So there was nothing else for a girl to do than settle in for a good book read. The snow changed to sleet and the majority had gone by the following day and a sense of normality returned. Although the papers explained how power lines had come down buses had become stranded and this really was exceptionally unseasonal weather. As we know this is the story of my trip so far. I spent a pleasant couple of days in Christchurch, touring on the tram, watching the river Avon meander past as brave tourists dressed in Antarctic gear tried to smile as the punted down the river. The Arts Centre and Art Gallery were spectacular, but Dux de Lux the veggie restaurant I remembered so fondly from 15 years ago now serves mainly seafood. This was a big disappointment, but a super hot Paneer Tikka Masala soon made up for it. My next campervan was not quite so luxurious and I missed my deluxe Hi Top with toilet and shower. But my backpackers special after some lavender room spray and a wipe round has become home. On my first day I crossed the Southern Alps. This mountain range is huge and divides the East and West coasts of the South Islands. Christchurch is situated in the Canterbury plains and therefore these majestic mountains dominate the horizons. The recent snow fall meant that they stood out beautifully in the blue sky. Yet more hairpin bends and death defying descents make up Arthur's Pass, my chosen route to cross this mountain range. Truly magnificent, but tiring and I was glad when I reached Hokitika and parked up for the night in a camp site right by the beach. My aim for the next day was to visit Franz and Fox, the 2 glaciers that draw tourists from all over the world due to their size and accessibility. Fog and mist clung to the mountains and you guessed it more hairpin bends and vertical (well it feels like it) climbs. The first stop was the Franz Joseph and it was pouring by now. Undeterred I set off for the 2 hour walk through the rainforest, and then the glacial stream bed. The glacier has deposited tons and tons of slate and pebbles and an icy blue glacial stream sits in the middle. Sign posts indicate where the glacier was in 1750 and 1835. The retreat if these monstrous snow rivers is quite staggering. You can no longer go right up to the glacier terminal, end of the glacier to you and me. But even so it is quite an awesome sight. The snow at the terminal is dirty having collected debris on the way down, and large bits do just drop off ! After saying goodbye to Franz it was off to Fox, which is longer than Franz but has less snow it. It has a shorter walk to the terminal but in parts it is steep and you cross streams flowing with icy water. I managed most of the walk but turned back at a larger brook that just spelled out "A@*e over T*t'. However, having walked I reckon 7kms I was looking forward to a good nights sleep in preparation for my treat tomorrow. I had walked on the glacier last time I was here, and this time I took a helicopter over both glaciers, and then landed on the neve for some snow balling and mind blowing views. The clouds were low but the pilot skillfully took us through the gallery and off we went. I had boarded to Helicopter at Fox, and then we flew to Franz to pick up 5 more passengers. Therefore I had the prime spot next to the pilot, and an additional 30minutes in the copter! It was awesome, stupendous, amazing to watch the ground fall away from under your feet and to climb to over 7,000 feet and meet the mountains face to face well words fail me. Landing on the snow was smooth but my exit from the helicopter was not. I stepped out and fell knee deep in snow, true Moyley style. Once up there you have to stay relatively close to the landing site as crevasses are scattered all over the place. After writing my name in the snow and taking some amazing photos we flew back down over the glaciers, looking into crevasses 100metres deep. Looking at the Victoria falls which come down the side of the mountain and INTO the glacier. Yes that right the water flows into the glacier and the 5km later it exits again at the terminal face. This trip was magical and I recommend it to anyone as a must do... I can't afford to eat for the next 2 months but it really was worth it. We got the first and last flight of the day in as the cloud was closing in fast. I am now in Wanaka - further South still. This resort sits on Lake Wanaka and services the skiing and alpine industries. The sun is shining, not a cloud in the sky and a nice temperature. My 3km walk into town earnt me a really scrummy New Zealand ice cream and I may treat my self to a glass of vino before by 3km walk home. Up hill this time! Apologies for the long letter, but this is the South Island and there is just sooooooo much to see and do. Hope you are all well - and missing me heaps! Love Lynne xxxxxxx