Bonjour Well I am here in Papeete and in polite society they would say glowing - I personnaly would describe it as a major melt down.... Air Tahiti Nui promised Polynesia from the moment you stepped on the plane. Flowers to put behind your ear, cheery turquoise seats with bright yellow pillows decorated with hibiscus. It felt strange to hear Polynesian and French announcements but luckily they were translated into English. But if I don't know the emergency drill by now from all these flights then I am in trouble. We crossed the international dateline and therefore I arrived a day before I left? Does that make me younger I wonder? Does it take away soe of the wrinkles??? Landing at Papeete we were grereted with more flowers and musicians playing as we collected our luggage. It was also 9om at night and 80 degrees! A bit of a shock to the system from the wind and rain I had left in Auckland! The taxi rank was HUGE! and my driver a friendly local woman as were most of the drivers lined up... Papeete has grown in the last 15 years since I was last here but after passing neon sign after neon sign I was at my hotel for the night. My very poor French was greeted with indifferent English - some thing I will have to get used to I think. My room was basic but clean and after a shower to cool down I then noticed my body lotion had leaked in my rucksack. Luckily mainly on my knickers which had to be washed in the sink but came out lovely and soft after being bathed in Nivea Q10. Luckily as this is the tropics they were all dry by morning ! I trotted off all eager to the tourist information office and was met by more indifference to be told they did not make reservations - just pointed at leaflets! I rang the Lonely Planets suggested Pensions on Moorea to be told they were all full - MON DIEU ! Will I be sleeping rough in Tahiti - not on your Nelly I won't. I will be staying at Cub Bali Hai on Moorea and just within budget - I think! My next stop was the banque de polynesia to stand in line for an hour to have my travellers cheque changed by yet another indifferent gruff polynesian.... Such a contrast to NZ - I wanted to scream at the all to smile - like all the posters would have you believe they do here.. So armed with money - I will now be collecting my 18kg rucksack and walking to the Moorea ferry in the mid day sun. As I am sweating just walking with my day sack I expect to be a soggy mess by the time I get to the ferry - but hey ho this is the life of a backpacker...... Hopefully Moorea and Club Bali Hai will offer a little more hospitality and you never know there may well be a smile in polynesia somewhere.... Au Reviour for now and I will be in contact when I am back in Papeete on 10th ! My Mobile does not work so I really will be incommunicado! Lynne xxxxxxxx