Hello Huaraz!

Up at 10,000 feet life is slower, more laidback and very different from Lima. Resting between the two Andean mountain ranges of the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Negra, Huaraz is the provincial capital of a region called Ancash. This region is popular with Peruvians and foreigners alike for its trekking, camping and mountaineering, and some of the views here, especially from our roof, are absolutely stunning! The locals modestly refer to it as the 'Peruvian Switzerland'. Thanks to this, quite a few 'gringos' (anyone who isn't Peruvian in appearance) pass through to tackle the challenges of the nearby Huascaran National Park.

We've been here a few weeks now, and are starting to get to grips with what life in Huaraz will be like. Having finally moved into an apartment, we're still trying to understand the Peruvian liking for yellow, lime and orange interior decor. At least it's bright. We conveniently chose a place at the top of possibly the steepest, longest road in Huaraz... bear in mind the draining effect of the altitude. Also, not learning from past experience, we forgot to check out the neighbours first. We became aware of our noisy neighbours at about 3am the morning after we moved in, as we lay awake in bed despairing of the constant racket. In the clearer light of day we discovered that our neighbours were in fact 50 chickens living in cages on the land beside us. At least we don't have to set our alarms in the morning!

In the past couple of weeks the main square has come alive with fake Christmas trees and neon lights, drawing wide-eyed locals into the shadow of the region's huge Catholic Cathedral which they have been building ever since the massive earthquake destroyed Huaraz in 1970...and they say it'll take another 40 years to complete! Colourfully presented Quechua women change their babies' nappies in the streets, while stray dogs pass by, unperturbed. Along the main thoroughfare, street sellers flog anything from screen protectors to socks, umbrellas to Christmas decorations, shouting in your ear as you walk past. Although a lot smaller, it possesses some of Lima´s quirks as drivers continue to communicate with each other using strange horn combinations, obviously an unwritten code designed to confuse gringos.

Every afternoon, the rains come: Karen went to buy some crisps the other day and returned drenched. It was as if someone had thrown her into a swimming pool. The streets are momentarily converted into fast-paced rivers which, 10 minutes later, are bone dry again!

Set off the tourist trail, the town market is a real experience: specialising in all types of livestock, from skinned chickens strung up on hooks, to recently-culled guinea pigs lying prostrate on dirty tables - not for the faint-hearted. Machetes remove fish heads in one fell swoop and you can purchase all parts of a pig, from snout, to trotter, to every conceivable internal organ! The smell is... interesting.

This initial settling in time has been one of the most challenging times yet. However, we have found some solace in a couple of local cafes (where we can briefly escape into their travel guides and copies of national geographic) and have taken time to appreciate the Huaraz cuisine of empanadas, tortas, alfajores and chicken feet soup. Little is similar to home. But as we listen to the roosters next-door and take in the amazing panoramic view of Huaraz from our window, we're reminded that that's OK, that this is an opportunity to rely on God more and that He has work for us here to do. As our placements with Arco Iris start we're praying that we'd feel settled, adjusted and ready to rely on God's help for whatever lies ahead, however bizarre it might be.