Cuscu 2

After a solid sleep we awoke to the hideous alarm at 4:45am and packed up to go to the train station. We wandered in the wrong direction and had to be directed by kulaks through a closed market place. No-one thought to put signs up. We bought coffee and cakes from an old street vendor and boarded the train in a much more relaxed way than in Ollantaytambo. We were some of the first people on the train. Again Lisa was sat separately and Laurent came over to speak but was soon ousted by an old German man that Lisa was not inclined to speak to. The last journey had been in the dark but now we could watch the amazing scenery. There were snow-capped mountains in the distance, beautiful green hills in the middle and running kulaks in the foreground!

We left the train at Ollantaytambo and had to get a bus back to Cusco (they were the cheapest tickets). We dallied around the train to take photographs and paid no attention to more running kulaks. We soon found out the rush as the small buses filled up and we had to stand for the entire 1 and a half hour journey back. There was a large Ann kulak taking up 2 seats on the back row and the kulak bus assistant tried to make one of us squeeze into a 2 inch gap. Even Charlie was too large!

On arrival in Cusco we tried to walk back to the centre but we stopped in our tracks by a sign offering breakfast for 3 Soles (50p). We went in and ordered, soya milk, fruits and yogurt and 2 sandwiches. The boys watched in horror as Lisa ordered a carne (meat) sandwich, only Lisa knew something they didn’t, it was a vegetarian restaurant and therefore carne meant soya. This restaurant was returned to on a frequent basis once Calum (the luxury fiend) had departed so that we could eat lunch for less than 50p.

Lisa´s night out

Due to the boys requirement for luxury Lisa decided to have a day to herself and went to indulge in a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. On her way she met the man from the train and asked him to join her. They spent many hours talking, whilst Lisa drank wine and he drank juice!!! They went for a walk round town and he realised the error of being with a blonde female, you get harassed by everyone trying to sell everything. Laurent ended by buying some very strange items and engaged in Spanish conversation. Again the lack of Spanish learning is rewarded. “No Gracias” is spoken in very firm tones by Lisa and the people soon leave. We walked around some slums and to a small area called San Blas, where the entire Bohemian population of Cusco hideout. Far too many dreadlocks swinging around to make either party comfortable, and the wine was more expensive. We then went to a bar where you can watch free films and only pay for drinks, we haggled for a bottle of wine by saying we wanted it for less or would buy two cups of tea. Surprisingly this tactic worked as it was low season. We watched a film in English with french actors and a token Mexican. It was quite a funny film from what was seen of it! They then ended up dancing salsa thinking there would be a lesson. No-one appeared to be teaching so Laurent taught Lisa some steps and a good time was had by all. The night progressed into Lisa’s first night at a Latin American nightclub, unsurprisingly it didn’t vary significantly from the cheesy St. Andrews Bop on a Saturday night. Even the music was totally Western, which is understandable if you have ever had the misfortune to hear Peruvian pop music. The party continued until 1:30am when all were tired of dancing. The parting of the love birds was abrupt as the gentleman was flying back to Montreal the next morning. Lisa enjoyed this small taste of local night life but will be continuing the trend of being in bed 8pm and lights out at 9pm.

Lisa woke up pretty hung-over after her night out and decided to treat herself to a rather posh meal for 27 soles (about 4 pounds – about the price of a hotel room). This was an assault on the senses which haven’t tasted such flavoursome food for a very very very long time.

Adios 

Sadly for everyone, Calum´s last day arrived. He left Cusco to fly home to Scotland, where the temperature is probably higher than here! We hope he enjoyed his 3 week whistlestop tour Lisa and Charlie style around Peru! .

Fried Green Avacado at the Whistlestop Cafe 

Before we left for Machu Picchu we met a very typical Jewish looking man with the hat and spiral hair and everything. He told us about an amazing hole in the wall the sells avocado sandwiches for 12.5p. We looked for ages for this over the next few days, before realizing that it was right next door to our hotel! Now her profits have doubled.

One of the coffee shops in Cusco is rather interesting. It is run by girls who look about 15 and wear the tiniest skirts and maxi prostitute shoes. But it is just a coffee shop. But there is an area for the staff to dance in the middle of the bar. Classy

Charlie learns to sew 

Charlie´s button on his trousers was loose. So Lisa taught him how to sew. Three stitches to secure the thread, then round and around til the button is secure. Threee more stitches and… you´re done! If only everything in life was this easy.

Train tracks 

One day we went to find the bus station to buy our tickets to go to Ariquepa. The journey consisted of following the train tracks until we found it. Lisa constantly stumbled but never once fell over, to her credit. At last the bus station was located, and we got our tickets for half the price we were being quoted by the tour agencies in town. One bus company was called Pony Express and was bright pink, but we were too scared to go on it.

Kulaks with Scissors

On the last day in Cusco Lisa risked kulaks cutting her hair. It started off badly as a trainee kulak washed her hair with typically cold water, put cotton wool in her ears and dropped the shampoo bottle very close to her head. Lisa panicked thinking she was th hair cutter too but this fear was not well placed as a J-Lo look-alike took over. The end result was a fabulous cut but longer than Lisa expected, still not bad for a less than great grasp at the language.

Next time… Arequipa