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Tuesday 14th Nov
Hurray the sun is shining and we had a magnificent view of the Indian Ocean from our bedroom window on the 10th floor, things don't seem so bad when the sun shines. Breakfast in the hotel, the dining room was full of very large African ladies who all wore their best Sunday hats. The surfing is amazing here, they are the biggest waves we have ever seen. We called into a shop near the hotel to enquire about internet cafes and the owner advised that we should take all our valuables back to the hotel before we set off to that area (only 2 blocks from the hotel) as the guy said "this area is hot!!". We now had a 200km drive to the Drakensberg Mountains but first had to drive out of the city, what an experience, people just drive any where or pedestrians just walk out into the road. The mountains were so peaceful and tranquil after the bustle of the city, the accommodation was set into the hillside and the scenery was spectacular. We had our first swim in the pool, the water was freezing but was a welcome relief after being so hot. This is an all inclusive resort so they try to feed you all day long. We felt totally relaxed after the traumas of the previous day.
Wednesday 15th Nov
The biggest problem of "living with nature" is the dawn chorus which wakes you at 5 a.m. After a leisurely breakfast we opted to go on the guided hike. There was only the two of us and the guide, half way through, he stops and fills you a cup with spring water from the local stream. It was quite hard going as we were about 2500m above sea level, Linda is obviously not as fit as she thought she was. On our return we went straight into the pool. The rest of the day was just spent relaxing, reading and taking in the wonderful views. Next day Zulu land.
Thursday 16th Nov
A long days travel ahead mainly across country and through small towns so we left at 09.15. We thought we spotted a shorter route in the map book so decided to try it, WRONG DECISION. This route took us up mountain passes on dirt roads full of potholes, what a nightmare the 67km on that part of journey took over 2 hours. We eventually arrived at the holding station (at 15.30) to park up the car and then we had to travel down to the Zulu homestead. We had a choice of horse or 4 x 4 truck, we chose the truck. It made Lindas previous drive in an off-road 4 x 4 look like a doddle, it took 30 mins to travel 2km. Upon arrival we were shown our "accommodation" a mud hut!! Later on we were met at our room and taken to the village to be introduced to the prince (there were only the 2 of us as the other parties hadn't arrived yet), where we shared Zulu beer (ugh) and meat (looked like a sirloin steak) which they cooked over the fire. After our Zulu introductions we were then taken to the river where the "restaurant" was based, the meal was surprisingly good. Then the drums started beating and the Zulu dancers appeared to entertain their guests. Bed at 20.00 as they wake you up at 6.00 a.m. the next morning for your cup of tea.
Friday 17th Nov
Woken up at 4.30 by the cockerel outside our open window. At 8.00 we were shown around the village huts and the prince explained Zulu history and culture. Then the journey back up the hill in the 4 x 4, Linda had a front seat, Ron had to stand in the back with 8 other people and a load of luggage, he was thrown all over the place and has a big bruise on his rear end!!
Another long days travel ahead to Swaziland, through border controls etc. A light drizzle in the air when we arrived, so we went to the bar as one does, followed by an excellent meal in the restaurant, bed at 21.00, we were shattered.
Saturday 18th Nov
Horror of horrors, its raining. Now what, we were going to sit around the pool today, I know ,we will do what most British people do, put on our raincoats and go for a walk. This was after the most amazing breakfast we have seen yet, we could have stuffed ourselves with enough calories to last a week, naturally we didn't (ha ha). After our walk we tried out the hotels internet connection, but it was just too slow, we managed to download about 7 pictures ( we hope). The rest of the day was just spent dossing about, playing cards etc.
Sunday 19th Nov
Leave Swaziland (of which we saw nothing) and move on to Kruger National Parks. The journey out of Swaziland was uneventful, and we moved through the 2 different border controls of each country. We entered Kruger and within 5 minutes we had spotted the first wildlife, an elephant crossing the road without even looking each way. We also saw zebras, gazelle, wild boar, BIG antelope and a tortoise. We are now settled into our very basic accommodation and have booked our first safari for tomorrows sunset (all earlier ones are already fully booked). Went for an early evening walk and the area is full of monkeys, you have to be wrapped from head to foot as well because of the threat of a mosquito bite. So everybody is sweating and smelling of mosquito repellent. At last we have found an internet access that will allow us to download our pictures, hope you enjoy them.
Monday 20th November
Linda was up nice and early as usual (6 a.m.) and sat on the terrace just listening to the birds it was very peaceful. After an early breakfast we hit the roads again (by choice this time) with Linda driving and Ron WILD ANIMAL spotting. It really is amazing to just drive and see so many animals that are obviously used to the inquisitive tourist. One of the rules of the park is "Do not get out of your vehicle unless you are in a designated area" (even then it is at your own risk). One such area was a viewpoint quite high up where we scanned the horizon with our very new binoculars (thanks Ed and Audrey), with these we spotted 2 giraffe sitting down and a solitary rhino accompanied by a couple of buffallo. At 5 p.m. we joined the sunset safari which was to last for 3 hours, this is where we were hoping to see the big cats. We saw all the usual animals (we sound quite blasé now) and were then shown the leopards kitchen which still had half his uneaten lunch there (an impala up the tree) there was no sign of the leopard though. At last what we were waiting for, a pride of lions just walzing down the road without a care in the world (it was pitch black by then) our safari vehicle had bright lights shining out at the sides. The lions just totally ignored us and carried on through the bush. We now know what it is like to be a windscreen on the car as our faces felt like that at then end of the drive as we had been bombarded with insects the whole journey. We found some still crawling inside our clothes an hour later whilst we were eating our dinner at the restaurant. For train lovers out there (e.g. Ken) an old railway platform had been transformed into a restaurant and a steam train sat on the tracks inside the building. Every half hour the guard blew his whistle and a puff of steam enveloped the place.
Tuesday 21st November
Leave Skukuza camp and onto Pretoriuskop which was further West in Kruger, we just took a leisurely drive, animal spotting on the way. Checked in, the accommodation was slightly larger than at Skukuza BUT we heard a strange noise coming from the thatched roof (oh no, it was bats), Ron reassured Linda that they could not get into the room. As the sun was scorching we decided to use the swimming pool which was set in an old quarry, it was great to cool down. Later on we could hear thunder and spotted a storm on the horizon, 2 hrs later we got it, so we experienced our first African thunderstorm, WOW did it rain and the lightening just lit up the sky. We wondered if the electricity supply would hold up, we had our torch just in case. You actually need a torch to walk around the camps at night as there is no artificial lights anywhere expect the rooms and restaurant. On our way to the restaurant for our evening meal we encountered about 30 impala that were there for the night, right outside our porch. Bed early as we had booked the sunrise safari and we had to be up at 3.15 a.m.
Wednesday 22nd November
Early alarm call (Ron's watch) at 3.15 a.m., scary walk round to the car park to start our safari at 3.45 a.m.. It was pitch black and all you could hear was bats swooping about and bull frogs croaking, For the first hour we encountered very little but as we were the only guests our guide gave us plenty of information about animal spotting (by checking out the roadside dung). Eventually we spotted two female lions just resting at the side of the road, we pulled up and they never even moved. We also spotted several types of antelope, rhino, elephants, etc.
After breakfast we left Kruger to drive to the Endangered species centre (about 100 km away) where we had a tour and introduced to various cheetahs, wild dogs, vultures, (even 2 Siberian tigers), wild cats and a very large white stork. We then headed to Sabie which is an old gold mining town, by then the fog had come down over the mountains and we could barely see 5m in front of us on hair pin bends. Bed early tonight as we were exhausted and it was pouring down with rain by now.
Thursday 23rd November
Decided to move to a bed & breakfast nearer to Nelspruit airport where we had to check in at 06.30 the next morning. The tourist info office found us one they said only 6km from the airport and promptly photocopied us a map on how to find it (ha ha). We also found an internet café in Sabie where we thought we would try to update everybody back home. No luck here we are still having problems getting the computer to read our memory stick where we have typed up all our notes (or should we say Linda has). As usual we could not find the B & B first time and when we did we had to go off road down a steep uneven dirt track, the views from the back porch though were across the valley over the Lebombo mountains, luckily the binoculars were close at hand. Once here though we did not want to venture too far, so quickly back to the local town for another fillet steak and the wine shop for a bottle later. Early to bed once again.
WE are now here in Victoria falls, will update with these events later, thanks gordon for the football results.
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