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Crossing the border into Panama was a bit of a mission. After going through Costa Rica immigration, we had to cross a bridge that was at last 500m long, rickety, perilous with lots of missing planks a huge drop to the river underneath! We had to walk across with our big backpacks. I couldn't see my feet as my daypack was on my front so it was a case of feeling with my flipflops (not such a good choice of footwear!) and hoping I wouldn't slip through one of the cracks! Made it (phew!) and stood dripping wet for 30 minutes while we secured a dodgy deal to get us into Panama without paying (don't ask but it involved 2 bottles of wine and a few other luxuries)!
So, Panama. What do you know about it apart from the canal? Not a lot would be my guess. And no, it's not the home of the panama hat, as you will remember if you read my Cuenca blog. It's not really on the tourist trail but so far I can't understand why as I think it's a great place! I guess they've only really just started marketing it so in a few years it will be like Costa Rica.
The canal was only handed back to Panama in 1999 which caused mass unemployment and a huge economic impact. Since Panama took control, they have managed it well, although they have cleared a load of forests which were vital for silt build-up, they are still trying to clear the lethal rubbish left by the US and 'target practice' by US planes has left an estimated 105,000 unexploded bombs scattered around the surrounding rain forest. Scary.
It has a population of just over 3 million. Biggest industry? Bananas. And they're goooood! The man from Del Monte is here so they must be! In terms of wildlife, it has more than 940 recorded bird species, more than 10,000 plants and 125 animal species found nowhere else in the world.
Our first stop in Panama was Bocas del Toro where I was planning to do some diving and complete my Advanced course. It's an archipelago of 9 islands off the Caribbean coast. We arrived early afternoon and it wasn't really what I expected as I think I thought it was going to be like Caye Caulker or Roatan with sand and waves. It was almost like a lakeside village but I liked it! We had a quick rice and beans lunch and then rented a small boat to take us out for the afternoon which was great fun! We bought some beers (well, I had Smirnoff Ice in a can - classy chick that I am!) and our first stop was a beautiful secluded beach. The water was like a bath tub - lovely! Not much to see in it however except for tons of huge starfish. We stopped in 2 other spots (including a beachside bar for a cocktail) before heading to a waterside bar for a beer or two where the boys (being boys) insisted on jumping off a diveboard into the sea in as many positions as they could think of! As the beers flowed, I'm surprised nobody got injured!
On Saturday, Rick and I headed to the dive school. He was doing a discover scuba course while I was completing my Advanced level. I had already done the required dives for the certification so could choose something more fun. Feeling a little delicate after the previous day's drinking, I decided to go for something easy. So, I did underwater photography and fish identification. Ha ha ha, hilarious! The fish ID is basically pootling around looking for fish and then identifying them on a card but was actually good as I haven't got a clue so it made me look harder for stuff. I saw lots of my favourite thing so far - little hairy starfish (or brittle stars as they are apparently officially known as but I prefer my term!). Also did the underwater photography dive which, to be honest, was a good excuse to get some more practice in and use a camera for free! Rick, in the meantime, literally took to diving like a fish to water and I was surprised to see him right behind me at one point. Makes me feel pathetic that it took me so long to feel comfortable underwater but everyone is different I guess and I do have my reasons for the nerves.
Everyone else had gone off to the beach for the day so we went for lunch and a wine or two! Rick (27 year old Dutch guy) was shocked to discover my ripe old age of 36 - aaaah, keep the 'still looking young' compliments a-coming! I didn't do much other than chill out for the rest of the day and after Kat and I had wasted time getting showered and dressed, we got downstairs to discover that the boys had decided to buy lobster and cook it at the guesthouse. Fine. We went to stock up on wine supplies and sat waiting to be served our lobster feast which, when it finally arrived 9over 2 hours later!), was delicious. The boys even did all the clearing up. Result! The young uns went out while I did my usual trick of sneaking off to bed. We were going on a boat trip the next day and I knew if I went out, I'd stay out and probably wouldn't make it in the morning!
Sure enough, next morning, the boys were a wee bit worse for wear and some of them had to be woken up. They were all a bit shifty about what they had got up to (Kat had only stayed for 1 drink and left when the shots started being bought!) but it was clearly a proper lads' night out with what goes on tour, stays on tour!
The weather on Sunday was a bit overcast but off we set on our catamaran. Yep, bad decision. Within 20 minutes the heavens opened and it was miserable and chilly. We ended up stopping to snorkel to warm up in the water. Great snorkeling location with loads of moon jellyfish which, as I have been reliably informed by several sources, don't sting but there were some kind of other invisible jellyfish bits that got me 3 times - two on the leg and 1 on the shoulder. Ouch! After lunch it really did start to piss it down and I was bloody freezing. There was no shelter and obviously none of us had any rain jackets or anything warm so we huddled at the stern of the boat, becoming more and more miserable. I then decided to huddle on the trampoline as there seemed to be warm pockets of air every few minutes, fell asleep and awoke when we docked several hours later in the burning sunshine. Hmmm, sunburn city! Thanks for waking me up and telling me I was cooking guys! In my comatoid state, I had also missed the fact that we had lost the motor and had to be towed back. What was in those sandwiches?!
When we got back, I went off to do my night dive - 3rd one for me and so far, definitely the best! The visibility was amazing and colours stunning. I really wish I could have had a camera to capture it all. We saw loads of shrimps, lobsters, 2 toadfish that look like bulldogs, a huge king crab that was munching on something (looked ever so funny!) and I also spotted some other kind of crab that was wrapped on a plant crunching on a hairy starfish that was trying to escape as it got stuffed further in the crab's mouth! I also saw 2 moray eels which were great and a whole heap of other stuff that's just too much to mention!
On Monday we set off on a multi-transport journey to Boquete. We spent 4 hours on a 20-seater minibus that must have had at least 97 people on it! I was sandwiched between a man who could easily have been a strong contender for the international gurning contest and, although he was across the 2 inch aisle from me, may aswell have been sitting on my knee. On the other side of me was a little old lady who was the size of a small child but appeared to need the entire seat. She had her legs wide apart so that all I was clinging on with was half a bum cheek. This was quite a feat and required such skill, balance and precision that I think it should become an Olympic sport. Every time I shuffled to try and stay on the seat, she edged me further away. When she wasn't trying to get rid of me, she was attacking me with her sharp-cornered handbag (what is it with grannies and their bags?) or stamping on my foot as I was touching her suitcase. I finally folded my arms, sat on her skirt (which she spent an hour trying to release!) and pretended to be asleep!
Anyway, I'm liking Panama so far. The small group helps as we all seem to get on fairly well and this leg is very chilled out. The last few days have had their ups and downs however and I've spent a fair bit of it in tears for various reasons, some of which some of you know, the rest is hidden in my pride. Suffice to say that my protective armour is back on - at double fortitude. The good news? I'm potentially looking at making some exciting changes to my plans over the next few months and hope to be out of work for much longer than I originally planned so watch this space!!
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