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Time moves in odd ways when travelling. Well, in life in general I suppose. Occasionally it inches by, such as on the bus trips when my neighbour spends 5 hours vomiting on and off into black plastic bags (which then get thrown out the window)… Other times it speeds by ridiculously fast as it did during my last few days in Tanga.
Having chosen Tanga purely based on the fact that it was by the coast (5 months inland in France gave me insane ocean cravings, typically kiwi I guess) and TICC as a place to study as a random pick I am still amazed at how well everything worked out. Not only did I get to stay in a gorgeous location with coconut trees throughout the grounds but with so much conversation practice I can’t imagine any better way to progress with a language!
After so much time spent in cramped buses and stuffy daladalas I decided to treat myself to a seat in the shuttle van rather than brave yet another crazy bus ride, particularly given the reputation of the roads in the area. However, being mainly used by mzungus these shuttles are pretty expensive. So, deciding that I would have more chance of getting the residents price if I spoke only Swahili I set off for the office. I didn’t think I was off to that great a start when I knocked on the door and woke up the man from his afternoon nap… But as it turned out, the guy was very impressed with my Swahili efforts and said if I could speak that well I am as good as a resident – stoked!
I am sitting writing this from the departure lounge at Nairobi airport while waiting for our plane to be attached to the ramp-tunnel thing. This weekend has been quite something. I got talking to a Kenyan couple on the shuttle from Moshi to Arusha which turned out to be amazing luck on my behalf. Arriving in a busy Nairobi they invited me to stay at their home and meet their family. So after recovering in a grungy guesthouse in the city centre for the first night (and finding my way back to the amazing fruit salad stands – quite impressive if I may say so myself given my sense of direction issues) they picked me up and took me to their lovely home. I was treated to a lovely dinner of ugali and beans and got to meet their six kids, 3 of whom were adopted from the slums. On Sunday they took me to their church – a congregation of over 2000 people, complete with a band and choir – amazing!
One of the most eye opening parts of my time here in Africa was the trip we took to Kibera slum. Something like 80 percent of the 4 million people who live in Nairobi live in slums like this one. 1 million live in this one and the shanty houses stretch for miles. We walked through the winding streets which were lined with a putrid smelling mud and piles of rubbish and the state of housing was as bad as I had imagined. However, what I didn’t expect was the lively atmosphere of what I assumed would be a gloomy and depressing place. The streets were lined with small stands and stalls selling everything from shoes to bits of old electrical parts and it there was such a bustling and lively atmosphere to the place. I am always amazed by the entrepreneurial skills of people here and given the opportunity, being so hard working and creative, they could get so far.
It really is an honour to speak the language of a different country (Actually, maybe not in any country, as speaking French while in France was often so terrifying that I think I possibly got worse on occasion!). But here, as in many countries, people are happy if you just make an effort. This evening I had a chat to a guy who ran a café in town about the community development work he does, in Lushoto I was able to make a new friend in one of the tailors in the market, on arrival in Moshi I was able to explain easily the type of guesthouse I was after and am paying about 1/5th of what I paid when here last time, I had a hilarious chat to the cleaning lady here about my inability to carry my bag on my head… and much more. I feel so fortunate to be able to have decent conversations with people here and they are so encouraging with my Swahili that I am never afraid to try!
Kwa watu wote wa Tanzania ambao nimekuwa na nafasi kuwajua – asanta sana! Sitaki kuondoka lakini ninafikiri kwa kweli nitarudi hapa kwa hiyo sihitaji kusema kwa heri - nitasema tutaonana!
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