Hanoi Arrived in Hanoi pretty knackered, were picked up from the bus stop and taken to the "Old Quarter" and took the first hotel we were shown as due to Sarah's flirtations, she managed to blag us the "suite room" where all 5 of us could fit. We kipped for a few hours, before heading out in search of the big lake. There was a desperate lack of food anywhere, so we grabbed a pretty gruesome snack at the first place we found, then headed to the centre of town. We found a smaller lake which was obviously the place to be, with joggers, couples, families, out for a stroll around water. We managed to find the Water Puppet Theatre at last and bought some tickets for Kirsty's Birthday Surprise. We then went into a small craft shop, and managed to get some small handmade sparkly stars to put inside Kirsty's balloons. Found a department store that had a coke promotion on so we got some free Coke and Oreo cookies- mm. We then popped into an art gallery, bought a card for Kirsty, managed to get some free mango and checked out the gorgeous paintings. Every picture I fall in love with always happens to be about $400! Bought some material to make a birthday banner for Kirsty, then headed to check out the Opera House. It seemed that a show was just about to start and when we asked at the ticket desk, they told us that it was a rock concert. We were so lucky that there were a few ticks left. It was a bit suss though cause the ladies behind the desk took us aside to pay for them and showed us to our seats personally. We were blatantly scammed but the tickets weren't that expensive and it was a really good gig. The band sang in French and most of the audience seemed to be speaking in French, but I don't think they were actually from France. They were amazing live anyway and had a bit of a Franz Ferdinand feel to them. When the curtains went up, I think the entire audience were stunned to see an hyoge symphonic orchestra supporting the band- twas amusing but exceedingly impressive!! Twas a good show. Got some expensive ice cream- but that's one thing you've always gota have after going to the Opera House! We managed to dodge the overly priced taxis afterwards and flagged down a cyclo-dude. He agreed to take all 3 of us at a very reasonable rate but I felt awful cause I know we're all heafers and he had to get off and push at some points. We also made him stop and wait while I hopped off to buy Kirsty some balloons and when we chatted to him he sounded totally out of breath. So Sarah and I decided to give him a juicy tip. Once back at the hotel, it was already very late, but we stayed up and Chez made Kirsty's Birthday Banner using toothpaste to stick the letters down and I had the nice job of blowing up the balloons that smelt and tasted like fish eggs- twas really nasty. We then hung the balloons down the stairs and put the banner up before KO'in. We were woken early next morning by an excitable Birthday Girl. She said that she had been greeted at the bus stop by the hotel guys holding up a sign saying "Happy Birthday Kirsty", which was really sweet. We all had a snooze in since Kirsty and Annie had just got off the night bus and we were all still knackered. Had to get a taxi into the centre to find some decent food and luckily stumbled across an amazing French restaurant. It was a charitable organization that trains up street children to work as chefs- and the food was delicious! The style of the restaurant was really funky as well so we chilled there and just chatted for ages. Eventually headed back to the hotel to get ourselves dolled up for Kirsty's big Birthday Surprise. Got a taxi there and she was thrilled when she realized we were at the Water Puppetry Theatre. I personally found the puppets a bit freaky and the Vietnamese music a bit whiney but everyone else loved it, and of course I didn't complain so it was all good. Next we headed for a funky bar, where we had a few drinks while singing our lungs out to Kelly Clarkson (they play her aall the time in S.E Asia). We were the only ones there so it was quite fun. We ate at a random food joint we found- pretty average, then headed for Bia Hoi- Vietnamese beer at 2000d a pint, which is like 7p. So we sat on plastic chairs, virtually in the gutter, to try it out. We were all a bit sleepy, but thought we'd better get some decent dancing in, so we followed a friend of a friend of a friend's advice and went to a club called "Apocalypse Now". The taxi cost us more than the last few days put together and the club was seedy as. As soon as I saw an old Western dude with a teenage Vietnamese girl dancing on him, I was out of there. So it was another extortionate taxi to get back to the hotel. Bit of a disappointing end to a good day and some sleep was needed all round. Next morning we all slept in. Desperate for lunch but didn't want to pay for a taxi into town so ended up following a sign saying "restaurant", down a random alley way into someone's house. Sat ourselves in their front room and were served what we thought were supposed to just be "fried noodles" but came with a high quantity of unidentified meat. And I'm telling you it was not chicken, beef or pork. So DOG is the only answer. It tasted so peculiar and it would have made sense if it were dog. Sarah and I were sure it was. We then set off to see the Temple of Literature" and I bought a drink to get away the after taste of dog. The Temple was nice but I was happy sitting on a bench chatting to Sarah about the past 5 months and how exciting it is that Darren's coming out soon. After a look around, we searched for a restaurant recommended in Lonely Planet- another place that aids underprivileged kids to get a job. It was called KoTo and was by far the best food I had in Vietnam. Beer battered Fish n Chips-mmmmm. And to die for puddings. Simply divine. After we had eaten our fill (which took some time!), we headed back to the hotel to start packing. The hotel guys surprised us by bringing up loads of cakes, mango, beer and biscuits as a be-lated Kirsty Birthday doo. Was sooo cool! So we all sat and "cheered" to Kirsty's birthday and the end of our holiday together. Next morning we got our stuff together, emailed a few people, then headed for the airport. Was weird saying bye to Sarah cause I don't hava scooby when I'll next see her again. Hopefully in Thailand- if not- Edinburgh for New Year! Checking in took some time due to 'departure tax'. Was so relieved that my bag wasn't over the luggage allowance. Another over-night stop in KL, wasn't too bad though. For dinner, Chez and I couldn't decide between 3 diff cakes, so after another round of flirtation on Chez's part, to the guy behind the counter, and he said he would give us the 3rd slice for free! Typical! At 3am, said bye to Chez and Annie then Kirsty and I set off for KK. Was really nice to fly over the islands and touch down in KK airport again. KK has a kind of homely feel to it now. Sat with Kirsty for a while until it was time for her to board her flight to Sibu, in Sarawak, then I headed back to KK.