The night was windy and the doors on our apartment rattled all night. What's odd about this holiday is that we have both been dreaming a lot - a thing neither of us often do. We hypothesise that it is because when we are at home, we go to bed late (mainly due to Joan's councillor duties which means we eat late) and rise at 5.30 am. We never actually get to the REM stage when you dream. Oddly enough Kevin is reading a novel where dreams feature a lot too.

We're the only folks staying here but we were amused when we saw people zip-lining by our window. Setting off out a large green lizard dashed through the front door - so we're a menage-a-trois now.

Rincon de la Vieja National Park is in the north of Costa Rica and slightly off the main tourist track. Joan's obsession with all things geological brought us here. Sadly, due to volcanic activity, you can no longer hike to the crater but there are a couple of hikes in the park still open. Today we did the Santa Maria Sector. It was a short drive fron Vida Aventura where we are staying.

Many of the tourist attractions have differential rates for nationals and foreigners which seems fair enough. Tico prices are given in Colones and foreigners' in dollars - but we still pay in Colones.

The path which we took today would eventually lead to a natural hot spring through the Bosque Encantado - enchanted wood. The park ranger explained we would have to ford some streams.

The first streams were relatively small and you could splash across on the stones. Then we came to a much wider and deeper one. Kevin took his shoes and socks off and waded in. It was rather deep. He found a shallower spot and waded across. Joan, despite having a wardrobe full of trousers, leggings and other gear appropriate for physical activity, has packed several long, flouncy dresses and white shawls and boleros. Not sensible hiking gear.

So, to cross the stream, she had to stuff her dress into her pants and wade across. It was only after she was 90% there that we both realised there was a wire to help you balance whilst leaping between stones.

Along the way there were several similar crossings and a few diversions to waterfalls. We tried to take a decent photo of the stunningly blue Common morpho butterfly but failed.

Evetually we descended to a sulphurous stream with some makeshift pools made out of rocks. This was why we were here - to bask in volcanic waters and enjoy nature.

Joan spotted movement on the rocks above. It was a ctenosaur and a bit of a devil to photograph. Another family joined us briefly and we were able to point it out to the kids who we think were french speaking Canadians. They were delighted. However, yet again, we had most of the time to ourselves.

We stayed longer than we were wise to. Nights close in fast here and we were glad to get back to the car as twilight fell. We saw a strange animal run across the path before us, but it was so quick.

We calculated we had seen eleven other people on the trail all day. Amazing for such a magical place.

A quick stop at the San Jorge minimarket - a tiny store in a shack - and we reached our accommodation. It was ridiculously windy and took two of us to close the gates.

A truly wonderful day.