I went to Chandni Chowk bazaar and survived!!!!
My first visit to Delhi and so much to try and cram in. We were actually starting and finishing our trip to Rajasthan and Agra here and returning after visiting Amritsar and Shimla in the north. Our first outing was to the Red Fort which was so much bigger than l realised. We went on a Sunday afternoon so joined 100s of Indians and foreign tourists queuing to get in. The individual buildings in the fort aren't so impressive but it's the sum and scale of the whole complex which is. Just enough remains to allow you to imagine life here under a Mughal emperor although there are many remains of the British - ugly barracks and army offices. A much more impressive visit was to the Jama Masjid mosque near the Red Fort. It is massive and can hold 25,000 people. We enjoyed walking around and then climbed the 121 steps to the top of the minaret. I was struggling to contain a feeling of claustrophobia as l climbed up the very narrow spiral steps with no windows, with people pushing up behind me and others trying to push their way down. Reached the cramped top to look at the views. They were spectacular but was more concerned how l was going to get down. Made Kevin go down first and stop anyone coming up so l could make a quick exit. Worst experience of all in India!!!! The bazaars of Chandni Chowk were a doddle by comparison. It is a wide road with tiny bazaar lined lanes running off it. Products are sold in individual alleys so as we found ourselves in the bangle alley, happily spent time trying and buying with the local women. We started to notice lots of turbaned Sikhs and realise that there is a big temple in the centre of CC. We walked to the wholesale spice market which is a medieval scene with the overladen porters and sellers and buyers. We saw handymen for hire, squatting on the ground with their bags of tools or paintbrushes (felt this should catch on in Europe). One of the most poignant things we saw, were groups of ragged men crouching outside some street food stalls with their hands cupped. We weren't sure if they were begging for food or customer leftovers. It does make you reflect on the inequality of life as that night we ate in a fabulous tandoori restaurant, Bukhara and another time, at Dhaba, delicious Punjabi highway food. We stayed in hotels in Connaught Place and Karol Bagh. We travelled by foot, car, taxi auto rickshaws and the clean and efficient metro. I felt that we didn't have enough time in Delhi as didn't get to see everything we hoped to, so will have to return. Delhi is, as India, a mix of juxpositions - old and new, poor and rich, traditional and modern. We were stuck in heavy traffic trying to reach our hotel because it was the festival of the Monkey God and the festivities had spread out onto the major roundabout!!! Oh, and always add in a bullock cart and a few holy cows!!!!
After our whirlwind tour of Rajasthan, we drove from Samode to Agra in Uttar Pradesh. We stopped off to visit the ancient fortified city of Fatehpur Sikri. Had never heard of this place but it was the seat of the emperor Akbar from 1571 until 1585. It was only used for such a short time because of water shortages. There is a huge mosque, still in use and 3 palaces for his 3 wives - 1 Hindu, 1 Moslem and 1 Christian. There is a courtyard where Akbar is said to have played an ancient form of ludo with his concubines as pieces and an area where elephants trampled convicted criminals to death. We visited the mosque in which there is a marble tomb for a monk whom Akbar consulted when he was heir less. His Hindu wife gave birth to a son soon after. Women still make offerings to this tomb in the hope of a child today and anyone can make a donation and tie a blessed thread on the marble screens. Have to admit, we felt the commercial pressure of this place. Hefty entrance fees compared to everywhere else we had been, hassle from hawkers and outrageous demands for offerings to donate at the tomb. We enjoyed the palace but resented the hard sell.
Forewarned, we spent the night in Agra, ready for a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal. Agra seems to be a sprawling ugly urban jungle with expensive hotels and poor restaurants. Our hotel was surrounded by building sites and a rubbish dump. The hotel was unlicensed but they served beer in the room. We started giggling as it was as if Kevin was scoring drugs, as the waiter surreptitiously took our order and smuggled our 2 beers in. Unfortunately, we were booked in the hotel for 2 nights and the second day was a dry day in the state because of the Monkey God's birthday so no drinks for us!!! Our travel company made a mistake with the itinerary as you only need an overnight stay in Agra. The only good thing that occurred, was that a groom's wedding party left from the hotel foyer on our first night. He was dressed as a maharaja and left on a decorated horse before climbing onto a decorated carriage. We had brightly dressed guests (all the men in matching scarlet turbans), musicians, 3 horses, 12 umbrellas, 12 men carrying lanterns, a confetti cannon, fireworks and bringing up the rear of the procession, a lorry with a generator. Sadly, the groom didn't smile!!!!
We were up early to see the Taj Mahal and it is beautiful and was worth all the irritants. It's all very geared up for the millions of visitors each year and you have to queue up to get through the security checks. However, the complex is large, so once inside, the crowds disperse. The first things you see are large red sandstone courtyards and there is a large mosque with another matching building on either side of the white marble monument with its 4 minarets.There is a huge entry gate like the Victory Gate at Fatehpur Sikri.The gardens and water features add to the beauty and perfect symmetry. As you enter the Taj, you see the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal, the beloved 3rd wife of Shah Jahan and his, which was added later. Apparently, we see replicas as the originals are very fragile and below ground. The marble is inlaid with semiprecious stones and has many carvings. There is a real feeling of peace and beauty. We both sat on Lady Diana's bench (the Indian description). The next stop was Agra Fort which is a huge complex with tended gardens and many buildings to visit. There was a mix of symbols from many religions. We still stop in our tracks when we see the ancient Hindu swastika! There is a white marble palace, another very pretty painted one and a grand audience hall. The domes are brass plated. One of the best things are the lovely views of the Taj Mahal from the terraces.
So a big yes to the Taj Mahal but would suggest a fleeting visit to Agra. Now, it was back to Delhi, a farewell to our trusty driver, Banwari, who had driven us safely 2000kms over 2 weeks and then the 6 hour Swarna Shatabdi Express train to Amritsar. On arrival, we went to the Golden Temple. Our driver parked in a concrete multi storey car park circa 1970 and pointed us in the general direction of a crowded Indian market. We wandered through the streets, joining the masses of Sikh families walking to the temple. Slightly chaotic as they are building a new entrance and underground car park. Left our shoes, tied scarves around our heads, walked through the footbaths and we were in. The Golden Temple stands in the centre of a sacred lake surrounded on all 4 sides by a wide marble walkway and covered porticoes and buildings. Sikh men and their small sons with their covered topknots were bathing in the lake, holy men with their orange or blue turbans were wandering about, guards with lances stood near the entrances and families were sitting, dozing and strolling throughout the complex. There was piped holy music from inside the temple. Volunteers wash the marble floors with buckets of water and brooms resulting in very slippery surfaces. They serve free food to all races and creeds in a large area and each corner had a water station. We looked at many of the plaques of Sikhs who had fought for the British. Decided l like Sikhism. It is an all inclusive religion with no idols and treats everyone as an equal. Yes, they are a warrior nation but peace loving most of the time. The complex is lovely with a calm happy vibe. The Sikh men shouldn't ever cut their hair, carry a comb, wear loose underwear for modesty, wear a bangle to symbolise fearlessness and carry a knife/sabre. We saw that the old ways are changing in the Punjab. The younger men want to cut their hair and shave. We went back to visit the inside of the temple the next morning. It was a cloudy day with the threat of a few spots of rain so was glad to have seen the temple in the sunshine the previous day. We entered the small interior and watched devotees present their offerings and money. The Sikh Holy Book is kept covered on the altar and there are several holy men sitting, singing and praying. At either end, were some sitting devotees separated by gender and everyone else filed through. A lovely experience! The next outing was hilarious. We went to watch the Wagah border closing ceremony at Attari, 30kms west of Amritsar. Considering how sensitive the border is between India and Pakistan, it is very good to witness this camped up piece of live theatre which is Bollywood meets Monty Python!!! For 30 mins before sunset each day, the Indian and Pakistani military lower their flags and close the border in a manic performance witnessed by hundreds of patriots and on the Indian side, scores of foreigners sitting in stands. We got there early and joined in with the Indians basically having a party. There was a compere and lots of Indian women dancing and singing to the Bollywood sound track. National flags were being waved. The Indian stands were divided into VIPs, foreigners and Indians. It was divided on the Pakistani side into men and women. The women were having a good time and waving flags but the men sat quietly. The Indian soldiers in their khaki uniforms with red belts and turbans with high pleats strut about preparing for the confrontation. Then, the ceremony starts after the booming command of a officer and the soldiers rapidly frogmarch up to the border in pairs to meet their opposite numbers and there are legs kicks reaching the turbans, from both sides. Each pair is cheered on by the crowd and it gets more dramatic each time. When the gates slam shut, it is show over and time to go. We loved it.
Our final destination in India was the old summer capital of the British Raj, Shimla in Himachal Pradesh. The only way to get there was by car. Our driver, Sonam drove us the 9 hours to the mountains and was then turning straight around and driving back to Amritsar!!! The journey was fine but dull between Amritsar and Chandigarh but then we started climbing into the mountains and the scenery was stunning. The mountains are vertiginous and not conducive to being farmed. Large settlements have developed. Shimla is a large city that is perched on a mountain and constantly spreading. It is not easy to get around as the roads get blocked easily. We stayed outside the colonial centre so had to hike in for 30 mins but luckily, it wasn't too hilly and the views are stunning. Did a heritage walk around the Mall and saw all the colonial buildings. We were amazed how they managed to build such ornate structures at such an altitude and how India was governed for half the year from an isolated mountaintop for so long by the British. There are many Indian military buildings and ministers' houses in Shimla as it is now the state capital. It was nice to see all the indian families on holiday. We enjoyed coffee in the Indian Coffee House sith its original decor and uniformed surly waiters.The foreign tourist season is just beginning as the temperatures start to rise. We found it cold after the heat of Rajasthan. We left Shimla by the toy train, the Himalayan Queen down to Kalka. This travels on the original track through the mountains laid by the Raj. The old fashioned carriages are tiny so we sat knee between knee with total strangers for the 6 hour, 100km trip. After a connecting train back to Delhi, we are now about to fly back to Malaysia after a fantastic trip. Time to relax and reflect on this vast and varied country. X

I went to Chandni Chowk bazaar and survived!!!!
My first visit to Delhi and so much to try and cram in. We were actually starting and finishing our trip to Rajasthan and Agra here and returning after visiting Amritsar and Shimla in the north. Our first outing was to the Red Fort which was so much bigger than l realised. We went on a Sunday afternoon so joined 100s of Indians and foreign tourists queuing to get in. The individual buildings in the fort aren't so impressive but it's the sum and scale of the whole complex which is. Just enough remains to allow you to imagine life here under a Mughal emperor although there are many remains of the British - ugly barracks and army offices. A much more impressive visit was to the Jama Masjid mosque near the Red Fort. It is massive and can hold 25,000 people. We enjoyed walking around and then climbed the 121 steps to the top of the minaret. I was struggling to contain a feeling of claustrophobia as l climbed up the very narrow spiral steps with no windows, with people pushing up behind me and others trying to push their way down. Reached the cramped top to look at the views. They were spectacular but was more concerned how l was going to get down. Made Kevin go down first and stop anyone coming up so l could make a quick exit. Worst experience of all in India!!!! The bazaars of Chandni Chowk were a doddle by comparison. It is a wide road with tiny bazaar lined lanes running off it. Products are sold in individual alleys so as we found ourselves in the bangle alley, happily spent time trying and buying with the local women. We started to notice lots of turbaned Sikhs and realise that there is a big temple in the centre of CC. We walked to the wholesale spice market which is a medieval scene with the overladen porters and sellers and buyers. We saw handymen for hire, squatting on the ground with their bags of tools or paintbrushes (felt this should catch on in Europe). One of the most poignant things we saw, were groups of ragged men crouching outside some street food stalls with their hands cupped. We weren't sure if they were begging for food or customer leftovers. It does make you reflect on the inequality of life as that night we ate in a fabulous tandoori restaurant, Bukhara and another time, at Dhaba, delicious Punjabi highway food. We stayed in hotels in Connaught Place and Karol Bagh. We travelled by foot, car, taxi auto rickshaws and the clean and efficient metro. I felt that we didn't have enough time in Delhi as didn't get to see everything we hoped to, so will have to return. Delhi is, as India, a mix of juxpositions - old and new, poor and rich, traditional and modern. We were stuck in heavy traffic trying to reach our hotel because it was the festival of the Monkey God and the festivities had spread out onto the major roundabout!!! Oh, and always add in a bullock cart and a few holy cows!!!!
After our whirlwind tour of Rajasthan, we drove from Samode to Agra in Uttar Pradesh. We stopped off to visit the ancient fortified city of Fatehpur Sikri. Had never heard of this place but it was the seat of the emperor Akbar from 1571 until 1585. It was only used for such a short time because of water shortages. There is a huge mosque, still in use and 3 palaces for his 3 wives - 1 Hindu, 1 Moslem and 1 Christian. There is a courtyard where Akbar is said to have played an ancient form of ludo with his concubines as pieces and an area where elephants trampled convicted criminals to death. We visited the mosque in which there is a marble tomb for a monk whom Akbar consulted when he was heir less. His Hindu wife gave birth to a son soon after. Women still make offerings to this tomb in the hope of a child today and anyone can make a donation and tie a blessed thread on the marble screens. Have to admit, we felt the commercial pressure of this place. Hefty entrance fees compared to everywhere else we had been, hassle from hawkers and outrageous demands for offerings to donate at the tomb. We enjoyed the palace but resented the hard sell.
Forewarned, we spent the night in Agra, ready for a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal. Agra seems to be a sprawling ugly urban jungle with expensive hotels and poor restaurants. Our hotel was surrounded by building sites and a rubbish dump. The hotel was unlicensed but they served beer in the room. We started giggling as it was as if Kevin was scoring drugs, as the waiter surreptitiously took our order and smuggled our 2 beers in. Unfortunately, we were booked in the hotel for 2 nights and the second day was a dry day in the state because of the Monkey God's birthday so no drinks for us!!! Our travel company made a mistake with the itinerary as you only need an overnight stay in Agra. The only good thing that occurred, was that a groom's wedding party left from the hotel foyer on our first night. He was dressed as a maharaja and left on a decorated horse before climbing onto a decorated carriage. We had brightly dressed guests (all the men in matching scarlet turbans), musicians, 3 horses, 12 umbrellas, 12 men carrying lanterns, a confetti cannon, fireworks and bringing up the rear of the procession, a lorry with a generator. Sadly, the groom didn't smile!!!!
We were up early to see the Taj Mahal and it is beautiful and was worth all the irritants. It's all very geared up for the millions of visitors each year and you have to queue up to get through the security checks. However, the complex is large, so once inside, the crowds disperse. The first things you see are large red sandstone courtyards and there is a large mosque with another matching building on either side of the white marble monument with its 4 minarets.There is a huge entry gate like the Victory Gate at Fatehpur Sikri.The gardens and water features add to the beauty and perfect symmetry. As you enter the Taj, you see the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal, the beloved 3rd wife of Shah Jahan and his, which was added later. Apparently, we see replicas as the originals are very fragile and below ground. The marble is inlaid with semiprecious stones and has many carvings. There is a real feeling of peace and beauty. We both sat on Lady Diana's bench (the Indian description). The next stop was Agra Fort which is a huge complex with tended gardens and many buildings to visit. There was a mix of symbols from many religions. We still stop in our tracks when we see the ancient Hindu swastika! There is a white marble palace, another very pretty painted one and a grand audience hall. The domes are brass plated. One of the best things are the lovely views of the Taj Mahal from the terraces.
So a big yes to the Taj Mahal but would suggest a fleeting visit to Agra. Now, it was back to Delhi, a farewell to our trusty driver, Banwari, who had driven us safely 2000kms over 2 weeks and then the 6 hour Swarna Shatabdi Express train to Amritsar. On arrival, we went to the Golden Temple. Our driver parked in a concrete multi storey car park circa 1970 and pointed us in the general direction of a crowded Indian market. We wandered through the streets, joining the masses of Sikh families walking to the temple. Slightly chaotic as they are building a new entrance and underground car park. Left our shoes, tied scarves around our heads, walked through the footbaths and we were in. The Golden Temple stands in the centre of a sacred lake surrounded on all 4 sides by a wide marble walkway and covered porticoes and buildings. Sikh men and their small sons with their covered topknots were bathing in the lake, holy men with their orange or blue turbans were wandering about, guards with lances stood near the entrances and families were sitting, dozing and strolling throughout the complex. There was piped holy music from inside the temple. Volunteers wash the marble floors with buckets of water and brooms resulting in very slippery surfaces. They serve free food to all races and creeds in a large area and each corner had a water station. We looked at many of the plaques of Sikhs who had fought for the British. Decided l like Sikhism. It is an all inclusive religion with no idols and treats everyone as an equal. Yes, they are a warrior nation but peace loving most of the time. The complex is lovely with a calm happy vibe. The Sikh men shouldn't ever cut their hair, carry a comb, wear loose underwear for modesty, wear a bangle to symbolise fearlessness and carry a knife/sabre. We saw that the old ways are changing in the Punjab. The younger men want to cut their hair and shave. We went back to visit the inside of the temple the next morning. It was a cloudy day with the threat of a few spots of rain so was glad to have seen the temple in the sunshine the previous day. We entered the small interior and watched devotees present their offerings and money. The Sikh Holy Book is kept covered on the altar and there are several holy men sitting, singing and praying. At either end, were some sitting devotees separated by gender and everyone else filed through. A lovely experience! The next outing was hilarious. We went to watch the Wagah border closing ceremony at Attari, 30kms west of Amritsar. Considering how sensitive the border is between India and Pakistan, it is very good to witness this camped up piece of live theatre which is Bollywood meets Monty Python!!! For 30 mins before sunset each day, the Indian and Pakistani military lower their flags and close the border in a manic performance witnessed by hundreds of patriots and on the Indian side, scores of foreigners sitting in stands. We got there early and joined in with the Indians basically having a party. There was a compere and lots of Indian women dancing and singing to the Bollywood sound track. National flags were being waved. The Indian stands were divided into VIPs, foreigners and Indians. It was divided on the Pakistani side into men and women. The women were having a good time and waving flags but the men sat quietly. The Indian soldiers in their khaki uniforms with red belts and turbans with high pleats strut about preparing for the confrontation. Then, the ceremony starts after the booming command of a officer and the soldiers rapidly frogmarch up to the border in pairs to meet their opposite numbers and there are legs kicks reaching the turbans, from both sides. Each pair is cheered on by the crowd and it gets more dramatic each time. When the gates slam shut, it is show over and time to go. We loved it.
Our final destination in India was the old summer capital of the British Raj, Shimla in Himachal Pradesh. The only way to get there was by car. Our driver, Sonam drove us the 9 hours to the mountains and was then turning straight around and driving back to Amritsar!!! The journey was fine but dull between Amritsar and Chandigarh but then we started climbing into the mountains and the scenery was stunning. The mountains are vertiginous and not conducive to being farmed. Large settlements have developed. Shimla is a large city that is perched on a mountain and constantly spreading. It is not easy to get around as the roads get blocked easily. We stayed outside the colonial centre so had to hike in for 30 mins but luckily, it wasn't too hilly and the views are stunning. Did a heritage walk around the Mall and saw all the colonial buildings. We were amazed how they managed to build such ornate structures at such an altitude and how India was governed for half the year from an isolated mountaintop for so long by the British. There are many Indian military buildings and ministers' houses in Shimla as it is now the state capital. It was nice to see all the indian families on holiday. We enjoyed coffee in the Indian Coffee House sith its original decor and uniformed surly waiters.The foreign tourist season is just beginning as the temperatures start to rise. We found it cold after the heat of Rajasthan. We left Shimla by the toy train, the Himalayan Queen down to Kalka. This travels on the original track through the mountains laid by the Raj. The old fashioned carriages are tiny so we sat knee between knee with total strangers for the 6 hour, 100km trip. After a connecting train back to Delhi, we are now about to fly back to Malaysia after a fantastic trip. Time to relax and reflect on this vast and varied country. X

I went to Chandni Chowk bazaar and survived!!!!
My first visit to Delhi and so much to try and cram in. We were actually starting and finishing our trip to Rajasthan and Agra here and returning after visiting Amritsar and Shimla in the north. Our first outing was to the Red Fort which was so much bigger than l realised. We went on a Sunday afternoon so joined 100s of Indians and foreign tourists queuing to get in. The individual buildings in the fort aren't so impressive but it's the sum and scale of the whole complex which is. Just enough remains to allow you to imagine life here under a Mughal emperor although there are many remains of the British - ugly barracks and army offices. A much more impressive visit was to the Jama Masjid mosque near the Red Fort. It is massive and can hold 25,000 people. We enjoyed walking around and then climbed the 121 steps to the top of the minaret. I was struggling to contain a feeling of claustrophobia as l climbed up the very narrow spiral steps with no windows, with people pushing up behind me and others trying to push their way down. Reached the cramped top to look at the views. They were spectacular but was more concerned how l was going to get down. Made Kevin go down first and stop anyone coming up so l could make a quick exit. Worst experience of all in India!!!! The bazaars of Chandni Chowk were a doddle by comparison. It is a wide road with tiny bazaar lined lanes running off it. Products are sold in individual alleys so as we found ourselves in the bangle alley, happily spent time trying and buying with the local women. We started to notice lots of turbaned Sikhs and realise that there is a big temple in the centre of CC. We walked to the wholesale spice market which is a medieval scene with the overladen porters and sellers and buyers. We saw handymen for hire, squatting on the ground with their bags of tools or paintbrushes (felt this should catch on in Europe). One of the most poignant things we saw, were groups of ragged men crouching outside some street food stalls with their hands cupped. We weren't sure if they were begging for food or customer leftovers. It does make you reflect on the inequality of life as that night we ate in a fabulous tandoori restaurant, Bukhara and another time, at Dhaba, delicious Punjabi highway food. We stayed in hotels in Connaught Place and Karol Bagh. We travelled by foot, car, taxi auto rickshaws and the clean and efficient metro. I felt that we didn't have enough time in Delhi as didn't get to see everything we hoped to, so will have to return. Delhi is, as India, a mix of juxpositions - old and new, poor and rich, traditional and modern. We were stuck in heavy traffic trying to reach our hotel because it was the festival of the Monkey God and the festivities had spread out onto the major roundabout!!! Oh, and always add in a bullock cart and a few holy cows!!!!
After our whirlwind tour of Rajasthan, we drove from Samode to Agra in Uttar Pradesh. We stopped off to visit the ancient fortified city of Fatehpur Sikri. Had never heard of this place but it was the seat of the emperor Akbar from 1571 until 1585. It was only used for such a short time because of water shortages. There is a huge mosque, still in use and 3 palaces for his 3 wives - 1 Hindu, 1 Moslem and 1 Christian. There is a courtyard where Akbar is said to have played an ancient form of ludo with his concubines as pieces and an area where elephants trampled convicted criminals to death. We visited the mosque in which there is a marble tomb for a monk whom Akbar consulted when he was heir less. His Hindu wife gave birth to a son soon after. Women still make offerings to this tomb in the hope of a child today and anyone can make a donation and tie a blessed thread on the marble screens. Have to admit, we felt the commercial pressure of this place. Hefty entrance fees compared to everywhere else we had been, hassle from hawkers and outrageous demands for offerings to donate at the tomb. We enjoyed the palace but resented the hard sell.
Forewarned, we spent the night in Agra, ready for a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal. Agra seems to be a sprawling ugly urban jungle with expensive hotels and poor restaurants. Our hotel was surrounded by building sites and a rubbish dump. The hotel was unlicensed but they served beer in the room. We started giggling as it was as if Kevin was scoring drugs, as the waiter surreptitiously took our order and smuggled our 2 beers in. Unfortunately, we were booked in the hotel for 2 nights and the second day was a dry day in the state because of the Monkey God's birthday so no drinks for us!!! Our travel company made a mistake with the itinerary as you only need an overnight stay in Agra. The only good thing that occurred, was that a groom's wedding party left from the hotel foyer on our first night. He was dressed as a maharaja and left on a decorated horse before climbing onto a decorated carriage. We had brightly dressed guests (all the men in matching scarlet turbans), musicians, 3 horses, 12 umbrellas, 12 men carrying lanterns, a confetti cannon, fireworks and bringing up the rear of the procession, a lorry with a generator. Sadly, the groom didn't smile!!!!
We were up early to see the Taj Mahal and it is beautiful and was worth all the irritants. It's all very geared up for the millions of visitors each year and you have to queue up to get through the security checks. However, the complex is large, so once inside, the crowds disperse. The first things you see are large red sandstone courtyards and there is a large mosque with another matching building on either side of the white marble monument with its 4 minarets.There is a huge entry gate like the Victory Gate at Fatehpur Sikri.The gardens and water features add to the beauty and perfect symmetry. As you enter the Taj, you see the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal, the beloved 3rd wife of Shah Jahan and his, which was added later. Apparently, we see replicas as the originals are very fragile and below ground. The marble is inlaid with semiprecious stones and has many carvings. There is a real feeling of peace and beauty. We both sat on Lady Diana's bench (the Indian description). The next stop was Agra Fort which is a huge complex with tended gardens and many buildings to visit. There was a mix of symbols from many religions. We still stop in our tracks when we see the ancient Hindu swastika! There is a white marble palace, another very pretty painted one and a grand audience hall. The domes are brass plated. One of the best things are the lovely views of the Taj Mahal from the terraces.
So a big yes to the Taj Mahal but would suggest a fleeting visit to Agra. Now, it was back to Delhi, a farewell to our trusty driver, Banwari, who had driven us safely 2000kms over 2 weeks and then the 6 hour Swarna Shatabdi Express train to Amritsar. On arrival, we went to the Golden Temple. Our driver parked in a concrete multi storey car park circa 1970 and pointed us in the general direction of a crowded Indian market. We wandered through the streets, joining the masses of Sikh families walking to the temple. Slightly chaotic as they are building a new entrance and underground car park. Left our shoes, tied scarves around our heads, walked through the footbaths and we were in. The Golden Temple stands in the centre of a sacred lake surrounded on all 4 sides by a wide marble walkway and covered porticoes and buildings. Sikh men and their small sons with their covered topknots were bathing in the lake, holy men with their orange or blue turbans were wandering about, guards with lances stood near the entrances and families were sitting, dozing and strolling throughout the complex. There was piped holy music from inside the temple. Volunteers wash the marble floors with buckets of water and brooms resulting in very slippery surfaces. They serve free food to all races and creeds in a large area and each corner had a water station. We looked at many of the plaques of Sikhs who had fought for the British. Decided l like Sikhism. It is an all inclusive religion with no idols and treats everyone as an equal. Yes, they are a warrior nation but peace loving most of the time. The complex is lovely with a calm happy vibe. The Sikh men shouldn't ever cut their hair, carry a comb, wear loose underwear for modesty, wear a bangle to symbolise fearlessness and carry a knife/sabre. We saw that the old ways are changing in the Punjab. The younger men want to cut their hair and shave. We went back to visit the inside of the temple the next morning. It was a cloudy day with the threat of a few spots of rain so was glad to have seen the temple in the sunshine the previous day. We entered the small interior and watched devotees present their offerings and money. The Sikh Holy Book is kept covered on the altar and there are several holy men sitting, singing and praying. At either end, were some sitting devotees separated by gender and everyone else filed through. A lovely experience! The next outing was hilarious. We went to watch the Wagah border closing ceremony at Attari, 30kms west of Amritsar. Considering how sensitive the border is between India and Pakistan, it is very good to witness this camped up piece of live theatre which is Bollywood meets Monty Python!!! For 30 mins before sunset each day, the Indian and Pakistani military lower their flags and close the border in a manic performance witnessed by hundreds of patriots and on the Indian side, scores of foreigners sitting in stands. We got there early and joined in with the Indians basically having a party. There was a compere and lots of Indian women dancing and singing to the Bollywood sound track. National flags were being waved. The Indian stands were divided into VIPs, foreigners and Indians. It was divided on the Pakistani side into men and women. The women were having a good time and waving flags but the men sat quietly. The Indian soldiers in their khaki uniforms with red belts and turbans with high pleats strut about preparing for the confrontation. Then, the ceremony starts after the booming command of a officer and the soldiers rapidly frogmarch up to the border in pairs to meet their opposite numbers and there are legs kicks reaching the turbans, from both sides. Each pair is cheered on by the crowd and it gets more dramatic each time. When the gates slam shut, it is show over and time to go. We loved it.
Our final destination in India was the old summer capital of the British Raj, Shimla in Himachal Pradesh. The only way to get there was by car. Our driver, Sonam drove us the 9 hours to the mountains and was then turning straight around and driving back to Amritsar!!! The journey was fine but dull between Amritsar and Chandigarh but then we started climbing into the mountains and the scenery was stunning. The mountains are vertiginous and not conducive to being farmed. Large settlements have developed. Shimla is a large city that is perched on a mountain and constantly spreading. It is not easy to get around as the roads get blocked easily. We stayed outside the colonial centre so had to hike in for 30 mins but luckily, it wasn't too hilly and the views are stunning. Did a heritage walk around the Mall and saw all the colonial buildings. We were amazed how they managed to build such ornate structures at such an altitude and how India was governed for half the year from an isolated mountaintop for so long by the British. There are many Indian military buildings and ministers' houses in Shimla as it is now the state capital. It was nice to see all the indian families on holiday. We enjoyed coffee in the Indian Coffee House sith its original decor and uniformed surly waiters.The foreign tourist season is just beginning as the temperatures start to rise. We found it cold after the heat of Rajasthan. We left Shimla by the toy train, the Himalayan Queen down to Kalka. This travels on the original track through the mountains laid by the Raj. The old fashioned carriages are tiny so we sat knee between knee with total strangers for the 6 hour, 100km trip. After a connecting train back to Delhi, we are now about to fly back to Malaysia after a fantastic trip. Time to relax and reflect on this vast and varied country. X

I went to Chandni Chowk bazaar and survived!!!!
My first visit to Delhi and so much to try and cram in. We were actually starting and finishing our trip to Rajasthan and Agra here and returning after visiting Amritsar and Shimla in the north. Our first outing was to the Red Fort which was so much bigger than l realised. We went on a Sunday afternoon so joined 100s of Indians and foreign tourists queuing to get in. The individual buildings in the fort aren't so impressive but it's the sum and scale of the whole complex which is. Just enough remains to allow you to imagine life here under a Mughal emperor although there are many remains of the British - ugly barracks and army offices. A much more impressive visit was to the Jama Masjid mosque near the Red Fort. It is massive and can hold 25,000 people. We enjoyed walking around and then climbed the 121 steps to the top of the minaret. I was struggling to contain a feeling of claustrophobia as l climbed up the very narrow spiral steps with no windows, with people pushing up behind me and others trying to push their way down. Reached the cramped top to look at the views. They were spectacular but was more concerned how l was going to get down. Made Kevin go down first and stop anyone coming up so l could make a quick exit. Worst experience of all in India!!!! The bazaars of Chandni Chowk were a doddle by comparison. It is a wide road with tiny bazaar lined lanes running off it. Products are sold in individual alleys so as we found ourselves in the bangle alley, happily spent time trying and buying with the local women. We started to notice lots of turbaned Sikhs and realise that there is a big temple in the centre of CC. We walked to the wholesale spice market which is a medieval scene with the overladen porters and sellers and buyers. We saw handymen for hire, squatting on the ground with their bags of tools or paintbrushes (felt this should catch on in Europe). One of the most poignant things we saw, were groups of ragged men crouching outside some street food stalls with their hands cupped. We weren't sure if they were begging for food or customer leftovers. It does make you reflect on the inequality of life as that night we ate in a fabulous tandoori restaurant, Bukhara and another time, at Dhaba, delicious Punjabi highway food. We stayed in hotels in Connaught Place and Karol Bagh. We travelled by foot, car, taxi auto rickshaws and the clean and efficient metro. I felt that we didn't have enough time in Delhi as didn't get to see everything we hoped to, so will have to return. Delhi is, as India, a mix of juxpositions - old and new, poor and rich, traditional and modern. We were stuck in heavy traffic trying to reach our hotel because it was the festival of the Monkey God and the festivities had spread out onto the major roundabout!!! Oh, and always add in a bullock cart and a few holy cows!!!!
After our whirlwind tour of Rajasthan, we drove from Samode to Agra in Uttar Pradesh. We stopped off to visit the ancient fortified city of Fatehpur Sikri. Had never heard of this place but it was the seat of the emperor Akbar from 1571 until 1585. It was only used for such a short time because of water shortages. There is a huge mosque, still in use and 3 palaces for his 3 wives - 1 Hindu, 1 Moslem and 1 Christian. There is a courtyard where Akbar is said to have played an ancient form of ludo with his concubines as pieces and an area where elephants trampled convicted criminals to death. We visited the mosque in which there is a marble tomb for a monk whom Akbar consulted when he was heir less. His Hindu wife gave birth to a son soon after. Women still make offerings to this tomb in the hope of a child today and anyone can make a donation and tie a blessed thread on the marble screens. Have to admit, we felt the commercial pressure of this place. Hefty entrance fees compared to everywhere else we had been, hassle from hawkers and outrageous demands for offerings to donate at the tomb. We enjoyed the palace but resented the hard sell.
Forewarned, we spent the night in Agra, ready for a sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal. Agra seems to be a sprawling ugly urban jungle with expensive hotels and poor restaurants. Our hotel was surrounded by building sites and a rubbish dump. The hotel was unlicensed but they served beer in the room. We started giggling as it was as if Kevin was scoring drugs, as the waiter surreptitiously took our order and smuggled our 2 beers in. Unfortunately, we were booked in the hotel for 2 nights and the second day was a dry day in the state because of the Monkey God's birthday so no drinks for us!!! Our travel company made a mistake with the itinerary as you only need an overnight stay in Agra. The only good thing that occurred, was that a groom's wedding party left from the hotel foyer on our first night. He was dressed as a maharaja and left on a decorated horse before climbing onto a decorated carriage. We had brightly dressed guests (all the men in matching scarlet turbans), musicians, 3 horses, 12 umbrellas, 12 men carrying lanterns, a confetti cannon, fireworks and bringing up the rear of the procession, a lorry with a generator. Sadly, the groom didn't smile!!!!
We were up early to see the Taj Mahal and it is beautiful and was worth all the irritants. It's all very geared up for the millions of visitors each year and you have to queue up to get through the security checks. However, the complex is large, so once inside, the crowds disperse. The first things you see are large red sandstone courtyards and there is a large mosque with another matching building on either side of the white marble monument with its 4 minarets.There is a huge entry gate like the Victory Gate at Fatehpur Sikri.The gardens and water features add to the beauty and perfect symmetry. As you enter the Taj, you see the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal, the beloved 3rd wife of Shah Jahan and his, which was added later. Apparently, we see replicas as the originals are very fragile and below ground. The marble is inlaid with semiprecious stones and has many carvings. There is a real feeling of peace and beauty. We both sat on Lady Diana's bench (the Indian description). The next stop was Agra Fort which is a huge complex with tended gardens and many buildings to visit. There was a mix of symbols from many religions. We still stop in our tracks when we see the ancient Hindu swastika! There is a white marble palace, another very pretty painted one and a grand audience hall. The domes are brass plated. One of the best things are the lovely views of the Taj Mahal from the terraces.
So a big yes to the Taj Mahal but would suggest a fleeting visit to Agra. Now, it was back to Delhi, a farewell to our trusty driver, Banwari, who had driven us safely 2000kms over 2 weeks and then the 6 hour Swarna Shatabdi Express train to Amritsar. On arrival, we went to the Golden Temple. Our driver parked in a concrete multi storey car park circa 1970 and pointed us in the general direction of a crowded Indian market. We wandered through the streets, joining the masses of Sikh families walking to the temple. Slightly chaotic as they are building a new entrance and underground car park. Left our shoes, tied scarves around our heads, walked through the footbaths and we were in. The Golden Temple stands in the centre of a sacred lake surrounded on all 4 sides by a wide marble walkway and covered porticoes and buildings. Sikh men and their small sons with their covered topknots were bathing in the lake, holy men with their orange or blue turbans were wandering about, guards with lances stood near the entrances and families were sitting, dozing and strolling throughout the complex. There was piped holy music from inside the temple. Volunteers wash the marble floors with buckets of water and brooms resulting in very slippery surfaces. They serve free food to all races and creeds in a large area and each corner had a water station. We looked at many of the plaques of Sikhs who had fought for the British. Decided l like Sikhism. It is an all inclusive religion with no idols and treats everyone as an equal. Yes, they are a warrior nation but peace loving most of the time. The complex is lovely with a calm happy vibe. The Sikh men shouldn't ever cut their hair, carry a comb, wear loose underwear for modesty, wear a bangle to symbolise fearlessness and carry a knife/sabre. We saw that the old ways are changing in the Punjab. The younger men want to cut their hair and shave. We went back to visit the inside of the temple the next morning. It was a cloudy day with the threat of a few spots of rain so was glad to have seen the temple in the sunshine the previous day. We entered the small interior and watched devotees present their offerings and money. The Sikh Holy Book is kept covered on the altar and there are several holy men sitting, singing and praying. At either end, were some sitting devotees separated by gender and everyone else filed through. A lovely experience! The next outing was hilarious. We went to watch the Wagah border closing ceremony at Attari, 30kms west of Amritsar. Considering how sensitive the border is between India and Pakistan, it is very good to witness this camped up piece of live theatre which is Bollywood meets Monty Python!!! For 30 mins before sunset each day, the Indian and Pakistani military lower their flags and close the border in a manic performance witnessed by hundreds of patriots and on the Indian side, scores of foreigners sitting in stands. We got there early and joined in with the Indians basically having a party. There was a compere and lots of Indian women dancing and singing to the Bollywood sound track. National flags were being waved. The Indian stands were divided into VIPs, foreigners and Indians. It was divided on the Pakistani side into men and women. The women were having a good time and waving flags but the men sat quietly. The Indian soldiers in their khaki uniforms with red belts and turbans with high pleats strut about preparing for the confrontation. Then, the ceremony starts after the booming command of a officer and the soldiers rapidly frogmarch up to the border in pairs to meet their opposite numbers and there are legs kicks reaching the turbans, from both sides. Each pair is cheered on by the crowd and it gets more dramatic each time. When the gates slam shut, it is show over and time to go. We loved it.
Our final destination in India was the old summer capital of the British Raj, Shimla in Himachal Pradesh. The only way to get there was by car. Our driver, Sonam drove us the 9 hours to the mountains and was then turning straight around and driving back to Amritsar!!! The journey was fine but dull between Amritsar and Chandigarh but then we started climbing into the mountains and the scenery was stunning. The mountains are vertiginous and not conducive to being farmed. Large settlements have developed. Shimla is a large city that is perched on a mountain and constantly spreading. It is not easy to get around as the roads get blocked easily. We stayed outside the colonial centre so had to hike in for 30 mins but luckily, it wasn't too hilly and the views are stunning. Did a heritage walk around the Mall and saw all the colonial buildings. We were amazed how they managed to build such ornate structures at such an altitude and how India was governed for half the year from an isolated mountaintop for so long by the British. There are many Indian military buildings and ministers' houses in Shimla as it is now the state capital. It was nice to see all the indian families on holiday. We enjoyed coffee in the Indian Coffee House sith its original decor and uniformed surly waiters.The foreign tourist season is just beginning as the temperatures start to rise. We found it cold after the heat of Rajasthan. We left Shimla by the toy train, the Himalayan Queen down to Kalka. This travels on the original track through the mountains laid by the Raj. The old fashioned carriages are tiny so we sat knee between knee with total strangers for the 6 hour, 100km trip. After a connecting train back to Delhi, we are now about to fly back to Malaysia after a fantastic trip. Time to relax and reflect on this vast and varied country. X