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Have just left the Land of the Thunder Dragon, Bhutan after 9 days. As we flew in to land on the 3km airstrip at Paro after a delay in Dhaka, Bangladesh, I realised how important visibility is, as all I could see were mountains. Thought it best to shut my eyes and hope for the best, trusting the pilot not to do the same!!!! Spent the first 3 days acclimatising in and around the town. It is full of traditional houses, resembling Swiss chalets, with lovely windows and beautiful painted decorations although not too keen on giant phallic symbols to ward off evil spirits. The people wear national costume (the gho and the kira) to work and school. There are stray dogs, cows and horses roaming free. Red chillies are drying on rooftops and outside windows. They love them so much here that they serve them as a main dish with cheese sauce. The Bhutanese love their new King and Queen and all practice archery.
A highlight was our 3 hour climb to Taktshang Gompa (theTiger's Nest). This sacred monastery is literally perched on a sheer cliff face. The visit there introduced us to the devout Buddhism of the Bhutanese. This week we have spun prayer wheels, always clockwise, visited temples,monasteries, a nunnery and various dzongs (sacred fortresses used as admin and religious centres). We have heard magenta robed monks chanting and making music, seen fantastic religious paintings and temple decorations, made donations, been blessed and obeyed rule not to take photos inside the temples. Prayer flags flutter everywhere in the breeze.
Our guide, Sonam and driver, Mr Tashi took us to Haa, 2 hours drive west of Paro. The roads were full of potholes and there were mud and rockfalls everywhere. Brightly painted lorries carried the Indian families to each spot to start the never ending repairs. The Indian Army runs a base from the dzong in Haa as they maintain the border patrols to keep out the Chinese. It was strange to hear all the Oxbridge accents of the officers in such a remote place. We tried to picnic in the mountains but were turned back at the checkpoint. Obviously thought we were a threat!!! That night, we samples a hot stone bath, butter tea ( yuk!) and the local moonshine.
We completed our 4 day / 3 night trek from Paro to Thiumphu 2 days ago so feel exhausted but exhilarated. Our team consisted of Sonam, Mr Dogi our mountain guide, a cook, a horseman and 6 horses. We walked up and down 9 mountains and experienced sun,rain,mist,hail and snow. They rate the trek easy to moderate but the conditions,attributed to recent Indian cyclone, made the going very tough. I didn't like the high altitude and a low was our last night campimg at 4000 m in snow and freezing conditions. We ended up getting out a hyperthermia foil sheet, I had packed just in case!!! Mr. Dogi was my hero the 2nd day when the mud reached our knees! He took us 'off piste' and saved me from falling in to a mud bath several times. Despite all the difficulties, we both loved it, as we walked through pine forests, pastures, saw glacial lakes and waterfalls, yaks and their nomadic herders, crossed lots of streams, were surprisingly well fed, acquired a team puppy on the mountain and had to wait for an agitated swarm of bees to settle before we could continue. Will never forget the breathtaking scenery and our lovely crew.
Yesterday, we saw the sights of the capital,Thiumphu. Lots of ( too many muttered Kevin) museums, masks, temples and monks.
Today we have flown 45 mins to Guwahati and have had to keep my eyes closed on journey in from the airport due to erratic driving!!! Will let you know in next blog how my first experience of India goes. Sorry this is so long but miss you guys so keep me posted. With love xxx
- comments
Rose So well written i felt i was there!! Sounds wonderful. xxx
Gitte Following all your news from France. Sounds wonderful exciting and wish you all the best with your travel and exploring of Asia. Love to you both. G & C
Joëlle Taylor ouah! The trek sounded tough! Well done though - great read. Enjoy India. Love to you both. Joëlle and Mike
Brigid That's all well and good Alison but this news will top yours - Rebecca is coming back to Neighbours!! Well done on surviving the trek - all that gym preparation worked! Missing you both. All Love, Brigid xx
Karen Wow! All sounds so exciting, now worried that our girlie adventures will seem very tame in comparison. Looking forward to a Skype chat when you get back to base camp. Lots of love to you both.xx
Gladys Hi Alison and Kevin - we are really enjoying reading your blog. Your description of the scenery in Bhutan is wonderful and it sounds a magical place to visit. Keep well. Love Gladys, Mark and Theo xxx