You last heard from us as we were leaving Laos for Vietnam. It was time to change from sabaidee to sin chow, from kip to dong, from beerlao to hanoi beer... The country is beautiful with magnificent hills, waterfalls, rice paddies, beaches and the mighty Mekong. Buddhism and Christianity are the main religions but it is all very low key, especially after Laos. We flew into Hanoi. I had visited the city 3 years ago when l did a charity trek for MacMillan and loved the bustle and vitality of the Old Quarter. Kevin was similarly taken by it all. We walked the old streets endlessly visiting the markets and l took so many photos of the bicycle sellers especially the flower ladies. Didn't like the women selling dead dog carcasses in the meat market. The traffic is still frightening but you just have to take a big breath and walk slowly as they weave around you. It was graduation day when we went to the Temple of Literature and it so reminded me of Lucy's graduation in Bath in July. Beautiful architecture, students in gowns and lots of photographers, flowers and proud parents!!!
We went on a trip to Halong Bay which in 3 years has become more commercialised. Terrible traffic on drive from Hanoi so road is having to be enlarged. The Chinese are buying apartments at the new marina built for the boat departures. Our boat was lovely, the views superb and we met some great people especially a mother and daughter from Papua New Guinea and an American couple from Philadelpia. Woke the following morning to a lady trying to sell me pearls outside our cabin window. Resisted despite her killer selling technique!!!
Time to get out the hiking boots for a 4 day trip to Sapa in the north. Travelled on overnight sleeper trains which were fine. Had so much fun on this trip. We had a 22year old Black Hmong girl guide called Za who lived in Ta Van, the village that we stayed in, so told us a great deal about village life. The trekking was easy and the scenery was beautiful. The first day we were followed by 3 ladies in full Hmong traditional dress( loved the huge hoop earrings and the not so traditional brightly coloured Wellington boots). The going was slippery so they helped me over the very muddy patches. Realised that they were going to try and sell us something but loved their constant chatter and laughter. We saw endless Vietnamese pigs, dogs, water buffalo, chickens , ducks and even a couple of monkeys.. The ladies struck as we stopped for lunch. Had to buy a woven purse from each and was then cornered by a group of young girls trying to sell me bracelets. They were scary and Kevin had to rescue me!!! The home stay was fun as lots of other trekkers to talk to and rice wine to try. The next day had to hike through a bamboo forest, cross several bamboo bridges and was a passenger on a motorcycle back to Sapa. This was a great hill town full of tourists but also a fantastic market for the Black and Flower Hmong people and the Red Dao. The handicrafts were lovely but the hardsell offputting. Spent a couple of hours stalking the old ladies and children to get some photos. This was when l was told l was a very naughty lady as l was sneaking shots of 2 laughing ladies.
A short flight later, we were in Hoi An. We stayed in a beautiful beach resort 5kms outside the town. Hoi An is a wonderful town on a river with Chinese shop fronts, temples and lit by lanterns at night. Very touristy but very charming. We had some things made by a tailoring shop, went to the fish and veg market, saw the sights, went on a local boat, and ate and drank well. We then took the train to the ancient royal city of Hue. Visited the Imperial Citidel in the pouring rain but had a great guide with a sense of humour. Liked all the royal history of the Nguyen Dynasty 1802-1945. The grounds were lovely with an air of neglect. So wet in Hue that we were pleased to be flying down to Saigon ( yes the locals are calling it by its old name again which is so much more exotic than HCMC) and better weather. Overnighted in the city which we went to as a family in 1997. It has changed into a very modern metropolis. We visited the Presidential Palace which has been left as it was when abandoned in 1975. Very Austin Powers meets James Bond!! We went to have a drink on the rooftop of the Rex where we stayed with the children. Then it was a very old fashioned hotel with a famous rooftop bar as all the foreign correspondents went there to drink during the war, now a luxurious 5 star international one which is a shame.
Then we had 2 days on a boat travelling in the Mekong Delta and staying in 2 colonial style hotels in Can Tho and Chau Doc. Again we had been to the first one with the children so it was a trip down memory lane. Really missing you guys, so excited you are joining us for Christmas!!!! Got up at the crack of dawn to visit the floating markets, orchards, makers of snake wine, rice paper...
Vietnam is such a huge country with so much to experience that it is impossible to do it justice but we both love the country and the people. My favourite places are Hanoi, Sapa and Hoi An. Next stop Cambodia by boat .....