Day 124 -127 "The worst road in Africa" We crossed the border into Kenya with little trouble - it seemed incredibly efficient compared with other borders. We bought our visas and got the relevant stamps then headed off on the 250km road to Marsabit - a trip that others had told us can take only four hours if you go fast. We had to be wary not only of Brutus' tyres but Biggles' shocks. However wary and careful we were the road took it's toll and we had to stop at least six times to repair punctures in the Nissan's tyres. After six hours and as the sun set poor old Darren and Ineka had yet another blow out - this was the one thing we were hoping to avoid. Unfortunately our two spare wheels would not fit on their Nissan so we were well and truly stranded - the light was fading and the only passing traffic were occasional cattle trucks zooming past throwing up dust. We were incredibly lucky when an Indian family who have lived in Mombassa all their lives stopped to see if we were OK. They were driving an old Toyota and fortunately had a spare tyre which fit the Nissan. It wobbled a lot but at least meant we could all limp on to Marsabit to plan the next leg of the journey. Arriving in the town at night we went for a meal and the restaurant gave it to us for free - pleased that we were visiting Marsabit and attempting this difficult road. So although we were having difficulties it was a great feeling to be in the company of such hospitable people. The Indian Kenyans were so kind to Darren and Ineka, saying that they would go in convoy with them all the way to Nairobi and help them buy new tyres there. The following day we spent the morning in a dusty shack in Marsabit which was supposedly a garage. The Nissan's blown out tyre was patched up but didn't look like it would last very long - and Zaire and Golum's Toyota had a bearing repair done. By lunchtime we were setting off for Isiolo, again supposedly another stretch of bad road that could be achieved in four hours if driving fast over the corrugations. With a bit of optimism we hoped to arrive before sunset at any rate...little did we know what was to come... The mended tyre lasted about 10 km and the Toyota's spare was back on the Nissan. We had to file the wheel holes to stop it wobbling so much but it seemed to work. Then it was our turn...not only had we broken both our back shocks and one of the front ones, but we had a leak coming from our differential - alarmingly caused by a hairline crack in the axle! Our plan was to keep on going carefully to get to Nakuru where we hope to meet Gareth and Jilly, Camilla's parents on 17th December....a deadline which is growing ever unfeasible at the moment. Later in the afternoon Darren and Ineka's luck really turned for the worse - the small leak they had in their radiator got much worse, gushing out water at a rate of 20 litres an hour. We had about 100 litres between us all but in an area like this water is pretty precious. We tried the usual tricks - breaking egg whites into the radiator to block the hole, which worked for a few more kilometres...then the Indian family put ten teaspoons of curry powder into it (!) which lasted a few more. But we soon realised that this problem was too big for quick fixes. Camilla looked on the map and at the GPS to work out where we were and discovered that there was a Catholic Missionary station only twelve kms away. If we could get to this point they would hopefully have water and perhaps even a welding machine to try to fix the radiator. We managed to get there and were greeted by Father Edward, a very kind man who gave Darren and Ineka access to a workshop where they spent most of the afternoon and evening trying to fix the radiator. Richard used all of our steel epoxy glue and fire gum, usually used for exhausts to try to mend the leaks. We hoped it would work but had to wait a few hours for it to dry to find out. We were offered a place to camp at the Mission, which seemed very inviting since it was dark and also getting cold. It was amazing to find a workshop with welding equipment, water and shade in this part of Kenya. The region we were driving through is considered one of the most inhospitable regions and driving conditions known in Africa. Bandits regularly shoot at passing cars, a Land Rover had been blown up on the road a week before and a Swiss couple had been attacked by lions on the same route we were driving after their truck broke down. Darren and Ineka kindly donated spare water carriers (a generous gift) to thank the mission for their much needed help and assistance. Unfortunately the repair to the radiator hadn't worked, leaving all of us with a quandary...how could we get Darren, Ineka and their Nissan Patrol safely to Nairobi to fix their radiator and tyres. Driving at night is something you just do not do in Africa due to the bad road conditions, wildlife, and in the case of this stretch of road, the bandits. However, we were all in an awkward situation - the Indian family were in a hurry to reach Nairobi the next morning and Darren and Ineka's tyre and radiator problem would lessen driving in the cool night, rather than the heat of the day. We also had our leaking diff to consider. We were both still very anti the idea but didn't really have an option as we wanted to stick with the others to check they were OK- we were conscious that if one of them broke down during the night, or worse still had an accident, they would need another vehicle to tow them to safety or take them to hospital. So it was, still waiting for the radiator to dry the Mission kindly welded a tow bar for the Toyota to pull the Nissan and we set off just after midnight driving into the darkness. Following Brutus being towed, we drove along "the worst road in Africa" as carefully as we could, our radio had broken because of the corrugations so we couldn't even play music to keep us awake. Then at about 2am disaster struck: the Toyota pulling Brutus swerved off the road and into a ditch, Brutus following several feet behind. Thank goodness no one was hurt but the tow bar was completely bent. We used our winch for the first time to pull the Toyota out of the ditch and it turned out that the front wheel bearing had gone causing it to career out of control. All of passengers were extremely lucky not to have been injured in the accident - thankfully they were driving slowly due to the badly corrugated roads. The Toyota crew spent another hour at the side of the road trying to fix their wheel bearing problem (in the end using our spare wheel nuts to space out the broken bearing). In the meantime Darren valiantly fitted the repaired radiator, which got 'Brutus' running again. We then all crawled on to find somewhere to stay, hoping to reach a village 20km away. The radiator just about made it and we set up camp at 2am! The following day, with no way of driving either the Toyota or Nissan Patrol they paid a cattle truck to take the cars to Isiolo, where hopefully they would be able to get some repairs done properly. Darren and Ineka had gone through probably the most challenging and demanding time of their trip and we admire their determination and strength of character to have coped with all the bad luck that was thrown at them. We hoped their luck would change as they crossed the equator. Whilst on their truck, the compressor went, meaning that were crawling on the raod at about 20 miles an hour. We were pleased that they managed to make Archers Post, 50 km from Isolio (where tarmac was to begin). Unfortunately we had run out of time and had to press on to Nakuru to meet Camilla's parents and fix our leaking diff. We were sad to leave Darren and Ineka but knew they were in safe hands in their truck and with the exceptionally kind family from Mombassa. It was a two day drive to get to Nakuru along more bad roads but beautiful Kenyan scenery: through the Samburu region, around Mount Kenya, through Sweetwaters Game Reserve via Rumruti and finally reaching Nakuru just in time to meet Camilla's parents...their coming out for Christmas is great timing as we are definitely ready for a holiday!! The experience of north Kenya was demanding and challenging - but it is what makes this trip so interesting and we are pleased everyone made it in one piece. Now time for some much needed beers....!