For a city that is such an important part of Sri Lanka's history we spent very little time here. Was given a quick tour around the major sights and then given just 40 minutes to wander around by ourselves. I think we were all disappointed that we did not get to spend more time here as there is still so much more to see than we got a glimpse of. Much of the city is laid out on a regular grid pattern adapted to the configuration of the terrain (north-south peripheral streets are parallel to the ramparts and not to the central traffic axes) and we would have found it interesting to spend some time in the old fort area wandering the streets and getting to know the place.

Galle – The capital of the southern province is a city with a colourful history. UNESCO declared World Heritage Site the magnificent Dutch fort is the most popular attraction of the town. 300 year old Dutch atmosphere is still very much alive around the fort and amidst its many historical buildings not invaded by the skyscrapers.

Galle provides an outstanding example of an urban ensemble which illustrates the interaction of European architecture and South Asian traditions from the 16th to the 19th centuries. The most salient feature is the use of European models adapted by local manpower to the geological, climatic, historical, and cultural conditions of Sri Lanka. In the structure of the ramparts, coral is frequently used along with granite. In the ground layout all the measures of length, width and height conform with the regional metrology. The wide streets, planted with grass and shaded by suriyas, are lined with houses, each with its own garden and an open veranda supported by columns, another sign of the acculturation of an architecture which is European only in its basic design.

During the 18th century, protected by a sea wall finished in 1729, the city reached full development. It housed 500 families, and a large number of public administrations, trade establishments and warehouses were located there. A Protestant, Baroque-style church, the oldest in Sri Lanka, was constructed in 1775 for the European colonists and a few Christian converts from plans drawn up by Abraham Anthonisz. However, Galle remained essentially a stronghold. In the layout of the city the Commandant's residence, the arsenal and the powder house were prominent features. The forge, carpentry and rope-making workshops, the naval guardhouse, and barracks rounded out a system that closely linked prosperous trade to military security.

The fort of Galle was handed over to the English only on 23 February 1796, one week after the surrender of Colombo. As a British protectorate, Galle remained the administrative centre of the south of Ceylon. A number of unfortunate modifications were then made: ditches filled in, new blockhouses added, a gate put in between the Moon bastion and the Sun bastion, a lighthouse installed on the Utrecht bastion, and a tower erected for the jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1883. Other work was undertaken during the Second World War in order to restore the defensive function of the fortifications. Taken together these alterations, few in number, have not seriously modified the original city plan. Galle remains the best example of a fortified city built by Europeans in South and South-East Asia.

After leaving Galle we continued our journey along the coast where we drove through small villages interspersed with glimpses of the ocean. We did stop at a fascinating Mask Museum in Ambalangoda which was not on our itinerary but was certainly worth a visit. The lady who showed us around entertained us with the many stories associated with the different masks they had on display. For example the Cobra Mask is for protection, Peacock Mask is for prosperity and happiness and the fire flame mask is to subdue your enemies and bring friendship. Interesting for me was the Medicine Masks which purportedly "cure" certain illnesses when worn……call me a skeptic but I cant see how wearing a mask will cure anything!!!!

We then headed to the Kosgoda Turtle hatchery where we lucky enough to see some turtles that were only hatched yesterday. Also saw some larger disfigured turtles that are permanent residents (for want of a better word) as they would not be able to survive back in the natural habitat. They have many species of turtles including some endangered species such as the hawksbill turtle. Most vulnerable of all are the eggs which are left uncovered on the beaches all around the coast. The hatchery is staffed by volunteers who go along the beaches and buy the eggs from the fishermen. They bring them back to the hatchery where they are kept covered in soil until ready to hatch. Once safely hatched the turtles are then released back into the ocean of an evening to increase their chances of survival. They estimate that about 1 in 100 hatchlings will survive.

Continued to travel through the coastal villages until we reached Bandaragama -which I can’t even find on a map- where we are spending the next 2 nights at a lakeside resort. Once we reached the town we had to drive quite a distance down a very narrow dirt road to our accommodation. Owika Lakeside Resort turned out to be a wonderful set of bungalows nestled into the natural surroundings and overlooking Lake Bodaga. We were greeted on arrival by the manager who placed a flower necklace around each guest’s neck and offered a cold towel and drink to freshen up. Each bungalow is named after a flower in Sri Lanka. The resort is staffed by local villagers who have not received any formal training in hospitality but I can honestly say it was not noticeable. They were kind and helpful, nothing was too much trouble, and the service was better than some of the so-called “nicer” hotels we have stayed in.

Day 14

Started the day after breakfast with a visit to the organic garden where we all asked to plant seeds for the coming vegetable harvest. We then headed off on a boat ride on Lake Bodaga – the locals showing us the numerous birds, fruits and flowers that cover the area. Our bus driver and helper were on a bridge that we passed under and threw tennis balls at us….I managed to catch one as it hit the water so Anushka says I should be playing cricket for Australia. I told him I thought the Sri Lankans could probably do with my help!!!!

We were taken to a 5 star resort at Panadura to spend the day relaxing by the pool or beach. I used the day to catch up on emails as the wifi and internet access has been very sporadic. Did enjoy a delightful lunch in the beachside restaurant complete with a few glasses of white wine (which has been hard to come by) so the day was not totally wasted. As much as the day was useful for me it really was a wasted day tour wise and we felt that it was not necessary. Could have used more time in Galle for instance!!

Headed back to Owinka for a sunset yoga session by the lakeside to be followed by a BBQ dinner featuring fresh local seafood from the lake – we are all looking forward to this. Unfortunately for me the yoga session set off the muscle spasm in my neck and back again causing me a lot of pain and therefore I could not attend the dinner or get to enjoy the impromptu performance by the villagers, our driver and helper afterwards. I am really annoyed that the careless incident has had such a negative impact on my being able to enjoy the last days of this holiday/tour and even more annoyed that not one of the tour staff has actually said sorry. Will be reporting everything to Peregrine upon my return but unfortunately nothing can replace what I have missed on the tour.