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Though the most famous Inca's ruin is Machu Picchu there are many other Peru ancient ruins that are also worth a visit. Today is dedicated to visiting and learning about some of the Inca archaeological ruins of the Sacred Valley. Being the epicentre of Inca civilization many of these sites are clustered around Cusco. This rich assortment of ancient ruins is a testament to the Incas great civilization. The Incas constructed huge buildings, walls and fortifications using finely-worked blocks - either regular or polygonal - which fitted together so precisely no mortar was needed! We got a glimpse yesterday when we visited Coricancha but are looking forward to exploring some more over the next few days.
If you are travelling independently the best piece of advice I can give you is to purchase the boleto turistico which is a paid ticket that allows you admission to 16 popular attractions in Cusco and the surrounding region including archaeological sites and museums. The complete tourist ticket is valid for 10 days, costs S/.130 for adults (Approx. $US46) and S/.70 (Approx. $US25) for students (there are other options available). Tickets will be required at the checkpoint for each site and it's essential that you don't lose it as we were told that no replacements are issued and this is a strictly adhered to. Our ticket was purchased for each of us by the tour company so I cannot go into the "ifs and buts" of purchasing. I do know that you cannot purchase online or in advance so like good scouts "be prepared"!!
The Sacred Valley of the Incas often referred to as simply Sacred Valley (in Quechua it is known as Vilcamayo, and in Spanish El Valle Sagrado de los Incas) was the centre of the Great Incan Empire and is located along the fertile valley of the Urubamba River. Not only does this area offer magnificent ruins but also stunning scenery. The snow capped mountains provide a fabulous backdrop to these ancient sites. The Sacred Valley was also the centre for food production due to the fertile ground. Corn, cocoa, potatoes, and more grow in fields and along terraced mountain slopes and the Quechua-speaking farmers work the fields with methods unchanged since the ancient Incan era. You will also see women in traditional Andean dress long black braids trailing down their backs stroll along the cobblestone streets of colonial towns, or walk animals along the road. One lady we saw had to be a least 80 years old!!
Sacsayhuaman, is an ancient fortress or shrine (no one seems to be 100% sure which) with excellent views of Cusco and shows the incredible stonework from Incan times. Its Quechua name means 'satisfied falcon'. Sacsayhuaman (easily remembered by its pronunciation 'sexy woman') was a religious site as well as the scene of a bloody battle between Inca forces and the Spanish conquistadors. It is believed there was some construction in the 1100s and then later expansion in the 14th century under the leadership of Inca Pachactueq that took around 60 years. The most mind-blowing aspect of seeing this site up close is the sheer size of the stones, most weighing between 90-128 tonnes. How on earth did they get them here? How did they get them to fit together perfectly without mortar? How did they carve these stones so perfectly? We can only speculate.
Sacsayhuaman would have held the most important temple dedicated to Andean cosmology including worship of the Inti (sun god), Quilla (moon), Chaska (stars), Illapa (goddess of thunder and lightning), and other divinities. On 24 June each year the site is the setting for the Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun). Accessible with the boleto turistico
Tambomachay (known as the Water Temple) was an Inca Sanctuary. While the precise function of the site is uncertain, it may have served as a defensive outpost for Cusco, a spa for the elite Incan leaders or a temple dedicated to water (considered the most likely explanation) the presence ofwater features, and its construction on a natural spring, it's likely that it served a ceremonial function connected with water.Two underground channels carved in detail on the rock carry a constant flow of clean water throughout the year. One thing that is certain is that this site held great meaning for the Incas as signalled by the huge double doorway, a feature reserved for places of huge importance.The Incas worshipped water as a source of life and for the regeneration of the earth.
The Tambomachay site is composed of a liturgical fountain and 3 terraces. The structure has 3 levels and, as it was common among Inca buildings, this one too had been built with perfectly fitting-together unequal-shaped limestone bricks without the usage of mortar. Even after many centuries, the stones look well-polished and strongly stick to one another. Tambomachay is a wonderful example of the ancient architects' ability to harmonise buildings with landscape creating a peaceful place where the sound of water echoes about. Accessible with the boleto turistico
Q'enqo, Its name means Zig-Zag or labyrinth in Quechua, and probably refers to the crooked channels carved into the rock. Qenqo is a unique temple as it was entirely carved out of a gigantic monolith. Stretched across a hillside, the temple is carved out of rock and marries the man-made tunnels with natural chambers. Explore the cave and view the sacrificial altar. Although it is clear the canal carried some sort of liquid, researchers have been forced to guess at its purpose, and at what liquid it transported. Hypotheses range from holy water, chicha (corn beer), or blood - All three indicate that Qenqo was used for death rituals and was a site of Inca ritual sacrifice, possibly to embalm bodies (mummies and human remains have been discovered) or detect whether a person lived a good life by the course the liquid followed. All rather gruesome thoughts!!
Qenqo is also called the Temple of Mother Earth and dedicated to Pachymama. Pachymama is a goddess revered by the indigenous people and is usually translated as Mother Earth but a more literal translation would be World Mother. The four cosmological Quechua principles - Water, Earth, Sun, and Moon - claim Pachymama as their prime origin. Thus this is considered a sacred place where ceremonies were performed in honour of each of these elements. Accessible with the boleto turistico
Puka pukara (Also referred to by the name Puca Pucara) means red fort. The function of this place is uncertain; The presence of the road may lead one to think that it was a tambo(place of rest - hostel). Although its structure does not correspond to the buildings that were commonly constructed along the Inca roads. Perhaps it was a settlement for the soldiers who protected the Incan ruler, while he spent a few days of rest in the baths of Tambomachay; or maybe it was a fortress or a hunting ground for the Incas. The answers to these questions have yet to be answered!!
The complex houses numerous halls, plazas, aqueducts and watchtowers as well as some semi-circular enclosures. There is also a well-known ancient road which should have been part of the network of Incan roads known as Qhapaq Nan. Accessible with the boleto turistico
Chinchero (means brave man in Quechua)
Chinchero is the picture-perfect Andean village surrounded by towering mountains and a visit here offers insights into rural Peruvian life. According to Incan folklore Chinchero was the birthplace of the rainbow. The village mainly comprises mud brick houses, and locals still go about their business in traditional dress. There's a charming church next to the main square, with a blend of colonial and native designs. Constructed by the Spanish, the religious building sits on the site of a much older Incan palace. This seems to be a continuing theme across this part of Peru.... Behind the church there is a series of agricultural terraces cascading down the valley and the mountain views from here are magnificent. The village is thought to have once served as a country retreat for Incan rulers, and ruins include stone walls, agricultural terraces, aqueducts, and even an ornate stone throne. Accessible with the boleto turistico
Visit the Interpretation Centre of Andean Textiles to learn more about the weaving processes and its importance here in Chinchero, the heart of the Peruvian weaving industry. Started by Chinchero native Nilda Callañaupa Álvarez, the organization works to keep the 2,000-year-old tradition alive in Peru while supporting the women of the community. Local artisans provide an informative (and entertaining!!!) tour about the process of transforming and weaving alpaca wool into colourful bags, camera straps, table runners, capes, ponchos and soft sweaters so well-known of Peru's Sacred Valley. The process consists of washing raw wool in boiling water, letting it dry, and then spinning it onto a spool. We also saw a demonstration of natural dyes used to pigment the wool, and specific plants, flowers, minerals and insects used to create different hues, such as cochineal beetles which turn into a deep red colour and plants used to develop ch'ilka green.
We finished our day with a visit to a local bar to try Chicha - the local fermented corn beer. You know you've stumbled onto a "chicheria" if you see a broomstick pole angled above a darkened doorway and topped with a red plastic bags - the Peruvian signal that denotes the 'bar is open'. These unlicensed businesses provide a significant boost to the family's income as well as being a place to socialise. The owner spent time telling us the process used and showed us the different ingredients. All chicha begins with corn, which is first soaked in water to aid in the germination process (unlike in times gone by when it was mixed with saliva!!) The corn continues to germinate when it's placed atop a layer of peppercorns and then folded between two pieces of cloth. The corn is left to dry in the sun, and after extracting the malt sugars, it's ready to meet the stone corn crusher (called a batan) which is wheeled in a back-and-forth motion to grind the kernels into a fine powder. The cornmeal is added to a large earthenware vat (called a raqui), and filled with approximately 30 percent water. During the final fermentation each person adds their own flair to "their" brew and may include herbs such as fennel, chamomile, mint, or cinnamon.
The Inca used chicha for ritual purposes and consumed it in vast quantities during religious festivals. There are also rituals associated with everyday drinking which we were introduced to. Our guide instructed us to pour out the first sip for Pachymama (Mother Earth) as a sign of respect and to signify gratitude for the fertile land from which the corn came. We were then instructed to raise our glass (like a priest raising a chalice) to the sky to salute the mountains. It is only then that you can drink your beer!!
The common chicheria game is known as Sapo in which players attempt to land gold coins inside of the mouth of a metal frog or the surrounding circular holes, all indicated with a specific value amount. It was here that we discovered that a few of our group had quite a competitive streak!! What a fabulous way to finish off a wonderful day.....
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