Today is all about two very different ancient sites that are geographically close.

Only 50 Km from Cusco, the Moray ruins are made up of terraces that were supposedly used by the Incas as a plant nursery. Although the real purpose of these terraces is not confirmed, modern historians speculate that on Moray's steps, it was possible to simulate all the microclimates of the Inca empire, thus permitting the priest-scientists who worked there to experiment with different foodstuffs to feed the burgeoning population. Each level of terrace has a micro climate allowing seeds to be developed for harsher climates at higher altitudes. Evidence seems to suggest that Moray was an important centre of Inca agricultural research on crops, which was carried out on different sized plots located at various altitudes (some of which were more than 100 m underground). One of the most remarkable feature of the site is the vast difference in temperature that exist between the top and the bottom reaches of the structure, which can be as much as 15°C. Resembling a sunken amphitheatre or an artificial crater, the terraces were built by erecting containment walls filled with fertile land and provided with complex irrigation systems. They are enormous in size, and descend to a depth of approximately 150 metres, leading to a circular bottom so well drained that it never completely floods, no matter how incessant the rain. They offer up more than 250 different types of vegetables and cereals, such as corn, quinoa and kiwicha. Accessible with the boleto turistico

Maras The town, while quaint, has little to hold a traveller's attention besides the mines - no restaurants, no hotels. However there is a perfectly manicured square in the middle of the town that depicts the lifestyle of the region and for locals to meet and enjoy views of the mountains. We were fascinated by the narrow streets suited to llamas rather than cars and the colourful blue doors that were framed by very intricate doorways. No two were the same! Why does everyone have a blue door?? Passing through Maras town gave us a glimpse of Peru from long ago.

One advantage of having a driver is that they generally know the good viewpoints. We stopped at the side of the road to see the salt mines (Salineras de Maras) spread out below us like a brown and white patchwork quilt — you can really see the scale of this man-made wonder from above before you head down to enter the site and get a close-up view. Since pre-Inca times, Maras has collected salt in the ponds by evaporating the salty water that emerges from a local underwater stream. Salt ponds are more commonly found on coastal plains, filled with seawater from the incoming tide. The ones in Peru are at an altitude of 3,000 metres so it is a long way to the ocean, but it wasn't always so; the Qaqawiñay mountain was once part the sea floor. The water naturally emerges from a spring (that originated 110 million years ago with the formation of the Andes Mountains!!), where it is then directed into a complex system of channels that sends it down into the several thousand ancient terraced ponds. The salt mines are arranged in geometric formations terraced down the slopes of a yawning canyon, the stream flows through the shallow pools, evaporating to leave salty deposits behind that sparkle in the sunshine just as it did 1000 years ago.

Each of the polygon-shaped ponds is less than 4 metres square and no more than 30 centimetres deep. Workers carefully monitor the flow of water and maintain the water channels between ponds, working closely together to remove the salt crystals that accumulate as the water evaporates under the warm Cusco sun - the process today is almost exactly as it was in times gone by. These salt pans in the hills are owned by locals. Each family owns one or more salt pans and is responsible for the irrigation of the pans and the collection of the salt after it dries. Larger ponds are given to larger families, and the newest members are given ponds further from the neighbourhood. The salt is then ready to be sold or exchanged for provisions and you can easily purchase some from the strategically positioned shops right on the site.

Maybe the Salinas de Maras isn't the most historic of Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley, but it makes for spectacular views across the valley. Cost of admission is only about 10 Peruvian soles.

A stop at a farm/shop gave us an insight into the camelids of Peru. Yes I had heard about and seen an alpaca and a llama but who knew there is also the vicuna and guanaco/huanco? I came away with a heap of new knowledge about these creatures!!

Here are a few characteristics which all camelids have in common…

• They are all native to the Andes Mountains
• They don't have horns
• They don't have hooves. They have two-toed feet with toenails and soft foot pads.
• Their upper lips are split in two and each part can move separately.
• They walk by moving both legs on the same side simultaneously, in a sort of left-right-left march.
• They do spit when they get angry or feel threatened, but they don't often get angry at humans.
• They have three-chambered stomachs.
• The fleece of these animals contains no lanolin, so it is hypoallergenic.

Guanacos are much bigger than vicuñas (the other wild species of South American camelid) but they are a lot smaller than their domesticated form, the llama. The other major difference between guanacos and llamas is their colour: llamas can be white, gray, brown, black or piebald but all guanacos have brownish backs, white underparts and grey faces with small straight ears. Guanaco wool is better than llama wool (especially the soft undercoat) but is considered inferior to alpaca or vicuña wool.

Llamas are the domesticated form of the guanaco, and these two species share the same coarse hair which in Inca times was 'only fit for commoners' clothes'. Llamas, which can grow over five feet, were first tamed approximately 6000 years ago by the Quechua Indians to carry up to thirty per cent of their weight for vast distances and in many parts of the Andes they are still the only form of transportation. The llama's hide is used to create leather while its wool is made into ropes, rugs and other fabrics. Llamas have long, wonky ears which look a bit like bananas.

Alpacas are smaller and woollier than llamas. Alpacas have symmetrical, pear-shaped ears. There are two subspecies of Alpaca: the fluffy, teddy-like Huacaya alpacas and the long-haired Suri alpacas. They are bred for their high quality, fluffy fleece which comes in a variety of 22 colours and are also reared for their meat, with alpaca served at many traditional restaurants. Recent DNA testing has confirmed that alpacas are the domesticated form of the vicuña.

The vicuña's cute, slender form (they weigh less than 65kg) and soft, divine wool are also its greatest enemies. Vicuñas only produce about a pound of wool every year: that's not a lot of wool, especially when you take into account the fact that their life expectancy is only 20 years. The vicuña boasts the most valuable (and expensive) of all the camelids' wool owing to its extremely long and fine quality fur which can only be shorn once every 3 years!!

We got a weaving demonstration and the opportunity to check out finished items in the attached shop. A few in our group purchased gorgeous sweaters and ponchos.

Our overnight stay is in the tiny town of Urubamba which is about 16 kilometres away but with the rough roads around here it seems much further.

Urubamba is an old Inca town and the name literally translated means 'flat land of spiders', but don't let that put you off! Urubamba is also called "La Perla del Vilcanota" (pearl of the Vilcanota) Close to the Urubamba River the small town sits surrounded by stunning snow-capped mountains The appeal of Urubamba is the surrounding natural beauty and its laidback vibes. Over the centuries, the town grew and earned the reputation as the hub of the Sacred Valley.

Our hotel was just a few minutes walk from the main plaza but as we walked up the road we did wonder where we were going. The dusty narrow road gave way to the barren entrance door and it felt like we were in a rural location. This hotel had the most wonderful gardens and you feel yourself instantly relax. I rarely say where I stayed but this time I will make an exception. The Augustos Hotel is a 3 star clean comfortable and friendly place to stay. Wi-Fi s only available in the lobby and it is not very reliable but we had been pre-warned so just made the most of enjoying the views.