Our last day in Buenos Aires and we are doing the two extremes today - vising the oldest and youngest barrios.

San Telmo is the oldest barrio and preserves colonial-style houses along narrow cobblestone lanes, illuminated with pretty wrought iron lanterns. It was originally home to high society before they moved elsewhere in the 1870s to escape an outbreak of yellow fever. Their ornate homes were converted into convetillos to house poor immigrants, which saved San Telmo from the ravages of 20th century modernisation. In San Telmo, one breathes the history of Buenos Aires and its bohemian vibe. Lined with antiques dealers and steakhouses, Defensa street cuts through Plaza Dorrego, the second oldest square in the city which was originally the central marketplace in the city.

A Buenos Aires landmark and national monument, the Mercado San Telmo building dates to 1897. Constructed with iron, metal and glass, the structure is as impressive as the vendors' displays. Produce stands, butchers and bakeries share the space with small restaurants and antique shops. At San Lorenzo number 380, there's a house that's only 2.5 metres wide, known as La Casa Mínima. This neighbourhood for me will be remembered for the cool street art which we discovered as we walked around.

You can't visit Buenos Aires and not see a tango show and there is really no better neighbourhood for tango than San Telmo. There are literally 1000s of places that offer shows with/without dinner included. Our tour group opted for La Ventana Tango which offers a tango show in a refurbished historical "Conventillo". The La Ventana Tango show comprised of two tango orchestras, a collection of folk music, two tango singers and four pairs of professional dancers who, with incredible precision and loads of passion, gave us a night to remember. In addition to the tango we were also treated to a glimpse into gaucho culture with a stunning demonstration of their boleadoras skills (the lasso type tool used to herd cattle). We also got to hear some Argentine folk music and a moving tribute to Eva Peron.

Puerto Madero is located along Rio de la Plata and is Buenos Aires' youngest barrio - think slick, modern, and shiny. It is known as a major business and gastronomic hub, with former industrial warehouses that have been converted into elegant restaurants, bars and clubs. Walking around Puerto Madero it's hard to believe that twenty-five years ago this area was nothing but an urban wasteland occupied only by empty warehouses and rats. The women's bridge, or Puente de la Mujer, is a beautiful centre piece in Puerto Madero. It got its name because of the many streets in the neighbourhood that are named after numerous famous Argentine women and the abstract design is said to resemble a couple dancing the tango. Yet somehow this barrio did not really appeal to me. It seemed to lack soul... think Docklands or Darling Harbour.....it was just too shiny and new.

One place that you should not miss if you want a break from all the concrete of the city is the 864-acre Reserva Ecologica (Ecological Park). Created on top of the refuse of a former dump site this expansive green area with very well-maintained trails wend their way through the reserve and lead eventually to the waterfront. The entire walk around the reserve will take you more than an hour and that's without stopping to peer through the reeds and to try and identify birds. The reserve offers several viewpoints that allow you a moment to scan over the marshes that navigate through the wetlands. You can observe different species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians, as well as more than 500 species of native vegetation including meadows of pampas grass and forests of alder trees.

Near the entrance to the reserve you will find the beautiful Fountain de les Nereidas (Water Nymphs Fountain). The sexy renaissance style sculpture was built in Rome by Argentine sculptor, Lola Mora. It represents the birth of Venus. The nude figure of the Love Goddess emerging from a seashell and held up by two mermaids was considered quite racy in its day. The sculpture sat lonely and neglected for decades, but with the revitalisation of this area it has now received its due recognition, been declared a national historic monument and is protected by glass panels.

Wow, wow, wow I have simply had a ball in BA. The food, the barrios, the people and their patience with my poor grasp of the Spanish language!! Our time has been far too short so I clearly need to find an excuse to return……..