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Today we headed north from the centre of the city with our first place being the barrio of Retiro.
The barrio takes its name from the Casa de Retiro, which was built by Governor Agustin de Roble at the intersection of Arenales and Maipu streets at the beginning of the 18th century. The first known development of Retiro began in 1800 with the construction of Plaza de Toros, a bullring whose outline is still visible in Plaza San Martin. During the English invasion, this area witnessed the scene of a significant battle, after which it was given the name of Campo de Gloria (Field of Glory). This was also where General Jose de San Martin gave orders to his grenadiers and the bullring eventually became the general's barracks and training ground.
At the barrio's heart is Plaza San Martin, a popular hangout for local workers during their lunch breaks and a great place to sit and watch the world go by. The plaza houses two significant monuments; one dedicated to San Martin himself and another to commemorate the fallen heroes of the Falklands War.
Within a short walk from Plaza San Martin are some of the finest examples of architecture present in Buenos Aires. Check out the fabulous former palaces that surround the plaza including one that now houses a military museum.
Across the road is the Kavanagh Building an imposing art-deco skyscraper with 105 unique luxury apartments (each apartment has a different layout). The building itself is steeped in legend. The creator of the building, Corina Kavanagh, commissioned the building to take revenge on Mercedes Anchorena. Corina had a relationship with Mercedes' son, but Mercedes despised the newly rich and foreign Kavanaghs and managed to end the affair. The building is an act of revenge because Mercedes intended to build the Anchorena mansion in the lot so that her home could be across from the Basilica of the Holy Sacrament, a resting place for her ancestors. Corina purchased it instead and built the skyscraper, blocking any view of the Basilica. Talk about the ultimate revenge!!
Crossing Avenida del Libertador from Plaza San Martin you arrive at Plaza Fuerza Aerea Argentina and a clock tower called the Monumental Tower. The clock tower was donated by British residents living in Argentina to commemorate the centenary of 1910, however was not actually built until 1916. Originally called Torre de Los Ingleses (English Tower), its name was changed in 1982 after the Falklands War.
This afternoon we literally stepped next door to the barrio of Recoleta which is one of the finest and most expensive areas of the city. It boasts many French style buildings, large green spaces, and first class restaurants. Think classic elegance.
It seems both bizarre and macabre to say I enjoyed visiting a cemetery but The Cementerio de la Recoleta is where all the rich families in Buenos Aires have their final resting places and it is said that here is the richest real estate in the city!! It's like a miniature town with more than 6,400 large ornate marble tombs, angel figures, life-size statues, cathedral-like domes and mausoleums that resemble small houses. Be sure to visit the tomb of Eva Perón, the daughter of an aristocrat and beloved First Lady who, despite having the most visited tomb in the cemetery, is considered by many to be too close toward the people for eternal interment in Recoleta!! I recommend going around with a guide as there are many amazing stories about who is buried here.
Attached to the cemetery is the brilliant-white church of Nuestra Senora del Pilar (Our Lady of the Pillar) which symbolizes the heart of the barrio. It was opened in 1732, based on a design by the Jesuit architects Bianchi and Prímoli. The basilica belonged to the Recollects order of friars, after which the Recoleta neighbourhood is named. At the time of construction, the location was on the outskirts of the city, taking into account the order's rules of withdrawal and seclusion. The church is considered one of the most beautiful examples of Buenos Aires' Colonial architecture. It's the city's second oldest church and has retained its original altarpiece and icons.
The Floralis Generica is a metal flower-shaped sculpture that follows the sun, much like a sunflower. It is set above a reflecting pool in a garden next to the University of Buenos Aires Facultad de Derecho (law school). Designed by Argentine architect Eduado Catalano it is made from aluminium and steel and became an instant attraction. With its six gigantic metal petals reaching 23 metres high and weighing 18 tons it is hard to miss! The sculpture has a clock that controls the opening and closing of the flower.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid is one of the best bookstores in the world at Avenida Sante Fe 1860. It preserves the splendour and elegance of the former Gran Splendid theatre/cinema, which was designed by architects Peró and Torres Armengol. El Grand Splendid theatre opened in 1919 and immediately became a beacon of Porteño culture, hosting ballet, opera, and the first "talkies" shown in Buenos Aires. The national Odeon record label - now owned by EMI - was based here, and singers such as Carlos Gardel recorded on the premises. The venue was converted into a bookstore in the year 2000, beautifully preserving the original decoration, including the dome, which was painted with frescoes by Italian Nazareno Orlandi.
I continue to be astounded by the look and feel of each of the barrios that we visit. Each one is different with its own character
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