A very long journey via Newark New Jersey, to San Jose softened by a glass at a wine bar in Newark airport. Got here near midnight and today we set off north to a private nature reserve via a few local villages so our first proper view of the country and a chance to get used to the local spanish accent. Rather bravely, or foolishly I had my hair treated to withstand the 100% humidily promised in the forests, but am currently scared to wash it as no idea what the...

Our last day in Madrid was spent going around a spectacular convent of barefoot nuns, who are now thankfully allowed to wear sandals, and the house of Lope de Vega, Spain's nearest equivalent to Shakespeare and obviously a ladies' man. As part of the local culture we have bought a lottery ticket for El Gordo, the fat one, the large Xmas draw. Queues for tickets at some sellers are hundreds long because they are considered luckier, although they are no more likel...

The guide books say trains to the monastery at El Escorial go from the main station, Atocha, but failed to tell us that they also stop at our local station on the way, which would have given us an extra hour in bed and spared us the sprawling incomprehensible bustle of Atocha. The original station was blown up by terrorist bombs in 2004, killing nearly 200 and injuring 2000. It now contains a tropical plant garden and a memorial we never managed to find with a ne...

It is only half an hour by modern, clean, punctual high speed train to Segovia, some 60 miles northwest of Madrid. A very picturesque walled city, famous for the 2000 year old aqueduct which runs through the town, two tiers of over 160 graceful arches, 30m high and 700m long, still standing impressively without any cement or mortar to hold the stones together. At the other end of the old town overlooking the surrounding plain is the fairy tale castle, which un...

We have found a local cafe for breakfast, tortilla (Spanish potato omelette) and toast with tomato, which comes pulped with olive oil and enough raw garlic to ward off vampires for a week. Central Madrid is wonderful to walk around, handsome streets and squares, the enormous Retiro Park and the lavishly over-decorated royal palace are under our belts so far. We spent a rainy afternoon in the Prado today, some great Spanish paintings, in truth too many of them, bu...