The guide books say trains to the monastery at El Escorial go from the main station, Atocha, but failed to tell us that they also stop at our local station on the way, which would have given us an extra hour in bed and spared us the sprawling incomprehensible bustle of Atocha. The original station was blown up by terrorist bombs in 2004, killing nearly 200 and injuring 2000. It now contains a tropical plant garden and a memorial we never managed to find with a new station alongside. We had tried to buy tickets the day before and waited in line 20 minutes to be told they can only be bought on the day. Once through the gates to the platforms there are no loos and you can't go back. Not the most user-friendly station, unlike the metro with its clean, modern, efficient, quiet air conditioned carriages with mobile phone signal.
The monastery was built by Philip the second, he of the Armada. There is a magnificent gallery with painted walls commemorating his great military and naval victories, but strangely no mention of the Armada. Many kings and other royalty are interred in marble mausoleums here, but apparently have to be left in the putrifaction room for some time before being put in the marble caskets to avoid unpleasant odours. It was worth €4 for the audio guide for that little factoid alone.