I The next day we do a short walk by local standards, 12 km round trip up into the hills to be rewarded by views of a milky glacial lake and the surrounding mountains, the most famous Mount Fitzroy, named for the Captain of the Beagle on which Darwin sailed. Fitzroy was under-appreciated in his lifetime, the first person to realise weather could be forecast. He set up the first meteorological office back in London but, a man of principle, sadly he always fell foul of authority and politicians and it was closed down.

The weather remains warm but the wind has begun to blow and we have our packed lunch on a very blustery rocky spot, trying to stop anything, including ourselves, from being blown away, but the panoramic view of the Fitzroy range is worth it. When we check out the next day I glance at the weather forecast. We had endured gusts of about 22km yesterday but the forecast for today was for 66km blasts so we hadn't yet experienced the full force of the Patagonian wind at all.