I The next day we do a short walk by local standards, 12 km round trip up into the hills to be rewarded by views of a milky glacial lake and the surrounding mountains, the most famous Mount Fitzroy, named for the Captain of the Beagle on which Darwin sailed. Fitzroy was under-appreciated in his lifetime, the first person to realise weather could be forecast. He set up the first meteorological office back in London but, a man of principle, sadly he always fell fou...

A two and a half hour bus ride north is El Chaltén and the northern part of the Glaciers Park. If El Calafate was a two horse town, El Chaltén is a one horse town mainly catering for backpackers and hikers in what is Argentina's most famous hiking and camping region. It has a much nicer, quieter atmosphere than Calafate, cheaper and less 'touristy' without coachloads of visitors, but it has its own less famous glaciers and we take a trip across the lake to walk...