In Cafayate our hotel is the former estancia of the adjacent winery founder, white single storey spanish style, internal patios with orange trees and fountains, surrounded by vines and a fringe of mountains, possibly the most beautiful we have ever stayed in. It's a day for superlatives as we drive back 30km up the gorge, a winding road with a different breathtaking view around every bend. 90 million years ago earthquakes raised the mountains up from the seabed, ...

Ms Hertz arrives late to open up shop for our second car hire, deals first with a woman who arrived after us, hanging on long after it is clear nobody will answer her phone calls. Despite computer and photocopier the paperwork drags on. Finally Mr Hertz takes us to their small lot. Our pre-booked car is a monster truck. I will need a step ladder to get in, Martin glazes over as the 4x4 controls are explained, the ritual inspection of the dents. The large rear fla...