A three hour flight over large dry agricultural fields, some sapphire ocean and an expanse of Patagonian desert to El Calafate in the south. In the dry,sandy, stony Patagonian steppe are low tussocks of yellowish grass and short spiny green bushes with occasional yellow flowers we catch sight of a couple of wild rheas and guanacos, the local llama.

El Calafate is a small backwater which has rapidly tripled its population to cater for tourists visiting the Perito Moreno glacier 80km to the west. The main street is reminiscent of a Wild West frontier town but with restaurants and shops selling expensive goods for international tourists. We prefer to walk along the almost deserted lake side promenade with a view of the milky turquoise glacial melt water of Lago Argentino, the country's largest lake, with its many birds, including orange-red winged Chilean flamingos.

With slightly improved appetites we order a typical mixed grill for two, which turns out comprises two large lamb chops, two large chicken breasts and three steaks. We do our best.