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After waking up at 5am, we were picked up by a 4WD and whisked away to begin our journey to the beautiful San Blas Islands. A little curious as to why we were in a 4WD but all the same didnt give it too much notice, we soon found out that we would have to travel through dipping and diving roads through the KunaYala mountains. Our driver, who was a little eractic but could drive the beast all the same, took sharp corners and seemed oblivious to the faces in the back seat turning green. One American girl was probably the worst but coming in at a close second was poor old Lex who had to open our packet of motion sickness tablets prematurely. We finally made it to the small port where we jumped onto a speed boat that would carry us away into the direction of the islands and also to the Sacanagem, the name of the sail boat we would be calling home for the next 5 days.
We'd heard stories through other travelers that the Kuna people were little scammers, one story we heard was of a guy who couldn't find a bathroom so urinated on a tree. The Kuna people charged him for it. So Lex and Frenchy were very careful to find bathrooms at the port. After about an hour in our small speed boat and large swell, we finally made it to the Sacanagem where the Canadian couple, Lauren and Brendon were already there waiting. Along with them was Benedict from Belgium and Jordon also from Canada. And of course our Captain Federico and his apprentice skipper Hermando, a 19 year old boy from Columbia who comes from a very poor family but has a dream of working on boats. Federico helped us with our luggage and gave us a tour of the boat. There were 4 cabins (where Lex and I had our own), 2 bathrooms (girls/boys. I was particularly happy about this revelation) and kitchen and a communal area at the back of the boat with benches and tables. The boat was awesome and it couldn't have been better (or cleaner!!!). And to make it even better, Federico has a small sea dog on board too!! A little french poodle called Rayner who kept us company throughout the trip with plenty of cuddles. The meaning of Sacanagem roughly translates into the sexual position in an orgy, however nowadays it is used as a saying. Eg "Wow, I've gotten myself into a real Sacanagam". We're not entirely sure which Meaning Federico used but it should give you an idea of his personality......half Brazilian, half French and whole lot of flamboyance!! (and is straight).
Looking beyond the boat were the start of the islands. We were moored just off a small island that was quite bare of forest and had a small building there. This turned out to be the capital city of the Kuna Yala Islands (San Blas Islands). Although the islands are apart of panama they are technically owned and run by the Kuna people. We put our bags into our respective cabins, got changed into our cozzies and jumped off the boat to swim over to the island for a game of frisbee...thanks Frenchy!! Frederico cooked up an amazing lunch, unfortunately not to Lex's or Frenchy's liking (another fussy eater), and after we spent that afternoon relaxing on the boat and enjoying the rays, yet again, of the Carribean. AAAAHHHH paradise!!
Just before sunset, Federico took us to another island where we could explore and check out the villages of the Kuna people. This was slightly surreal as all the houses were made of wood and sticks and the paths were literally sand. We wandered through feeling a little intrusive but they seemed fine with the situation and the village children always enjoyed the visit from Rayner who spent her time there being chased. The Kuna people are a little strange looking with wide, long, flat faces and big noses. The women all have their hair short (bowl cuts) and wear long beaded bracelets up their arms and around their calves. You can definately still see the traditional tribe appearances flowing through their blood. Just after sunset we made our way back to the boat, had dinner and called it an early night.
That night's sleep wasn't too bad and the next morning we were woken up by Federico for breakfast at 9am. The 2nd and 3rd day were pretty much relaxing on the the boat, enjoying the crystal clear waters, deserted islands with pure white sands, palm trees, coconuts, snorkling, boat diving, eagle rays and a few beverages. Also, the amazing entertainment by Lauren who has a larger than life personality and kept us laughing troughout the trip with her Avatar impersonation, abuse on Brendon and all round craziness!! Thanks Loz! Old mate Frenchy also introduced us to his Brazilian side on the 3rd day appearing from his cabin in a pair of blue budgie smugglers...interesting! Jordon and Benedict who claim to be "just travelling friends" spent their time cuddled up together smoking ciggies and reading their books.
On our last night on the islands Frederico sent us out to a deserted island in the afternoon to collect wood for the beach bonfire. After setting it all up the boys started up a soccer game while us girls cheered them on and entertained ourselves with taking pictures and playing around in the blue rowboat that resembled a lego piece. After a while we went back to the boat, relaxed a little more, organised our booze and after sunset we motored back to the island to begin our bonfire dinner. Federico cooked up an amazing octopus and tomato stew with rice. It smelled awesome however as this was my first time trying octopus I ony tasted a little. Lex on the other hand, the man with no taste buds, turned his nose up to the whole dish claiming the rice smelled like fish and went hungry once again. After a few rums we got cracking onto a game of charades and after many laughs began a few ghost stories....."It was a dark and stormy night!" After feeling the effects of sandfly bites and the fire slowly dying we called it a night and went back to the Sacanagem.
The next morning we had breakfast at 9 as usual and enjoyed our last swim in the amazing waters (no swimming allowed in the open seas). At 10am Federico hoisted the anchor and we set sail for Cartegena, Columbia and in doing so said our final farewells to Central America.....you've been awesome!!!
The first leg of the trip was great. The sea breeze was nice, the sun was still shining and we were all on a high to start the adventure.....however by afternoon the swell had picked and I made my way down to our cabin, popped some motion sickness pills and called it a night with no dinner. Lex had found his spot at the front of the boat and he didn't really move from this position for the rest of the journey. Unfortunately the weather had taken a turn and it got quite rough that night and none of us got much sleep. A couple of the others had slept up top and told us that Federico had to where a harness to check the sails. MMMMmmm a little worrying!! Yet as luck would have it, the next morning the waters had calmed, the sun showed its' face again and we all back on our high. Especially after hearing the news from Federico that we were running ahead of schedule and would arrive to Cartegena 5 hours early!! This was especially good news for Brendon whose birthday it was that day and was keen to get to the city and party columbian style!!
We all enjoyed our last sunset out at sea and not long after that there was no doubt that the bright lights of Cartegena were twinkling on the horizon...Land Ho!! It felt like forever to reach the skyline but minute by minute the city presented itself and we could hear the music pumping already. We made it to the port and with bags packed we said our farewells to the Sacanagem and gave it thanks not finding us all in a Sacanagem. Not only were we feeling better but marvelled in the fact that noone on board threw up!!! Which we were told was a sure thing!! HOOORAH!
We would recommend this experience to anyone but for us we'll take the San Blas again minus the open sea trip thanks!! Now, bring on South America!!
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