Home of the Monkey Forest, with real live creepy macaques that bear their teeth and steal the clothes off your back, numerous fancy clothes shops and cafes and the hustle bustle of tourists and local alike, Ubud at first glance appears to be a tourist honey pot. And it is. But amid this Bali for the cultured, I had the most profound spiritual, and indeed human, experience. I happened to be there for one of their three major religious festival, and the family owners of my bungalow compound were decorating their temple (in the centre of the bungalows) with carefully made flower and leaf decorations. I was lucky enough to be allowed to give them a hand, and it was harder than it looked! So, dressed by Ketut in a sarong and scarf, with a long sleeved top and hair tied up with a frangipani flower in it, off I went to the temple. The ceremony was incredible. It seemed like all of life was represented- whole families, from tiny children to the elderly whilst cats sedately grooming themselves in the statues. Elaborate offerings of baskets of food, flowers and incense were made at the start, piles and piles of them. Being part of the congregation was humbling, as everyone prayed with flowers in their fingers and were blessed by the elders with water, for a moment there was a sacred silence that connected us all. Until a child started up his screaming again, but no oneseemed to mind. Young girls were chatting and it was a sociable and happy occasion, everyone dressed in their best bright outfits and kneeling on the stone floor under the hot sun. Other highlights include my first ever motorbike ride, something I don't want to repeat in a hurry due to the unfortunate placings of a certain brick wall and a certain pooch ( they are both fine and so was I, but it was a close call!)