Today was the day for fly camping - we opted to start with a walk - but this meant having our normal early morning tea and muffin at 5.45 and departing at 6.00. We drove through the park gates and then on to local community land land where the walking concession is - you wouldn't know you weren't in the park as it is all contiguous. First stop was the tower,built by and exclusively used by Tent with a View (see today's picture) - it's the most up market fly camp we have been in - but more of that later.
As it was nearly 7.00am, and already getting hot, we immediately set off on our walk; Tizo followed Rudi, our ranger,with a gun, he looked a lot older and half the size of John our previous guide so his stride length was half his, so we seemed to be on a slow amble to start with. Albeit on reflection because of the heat, humidity and presence of elephant it wasn't a bad thing! We walked for 2 hours and returned at 9.00 am for breakfast. Our sightings included bushbuck, waterbuck( the most prolific antelope in the park), baboon, red duiker, dwarf mongoose, black chested barbet, and an elephants backside as we disturbed him eating amarula fruit and he made off with a couple of mates into the bush. Due to the proximity of the ocean the water holes were a mixture of brackish which the animals crossed over only and freshwater which they drank - the latter were vital as we were at the end of the dry season and water, good grass and vegetation is at a premium. All around the tower were animal tracks - not least there we fresh tracks from a family of elephant - passing between the waterholes and their feeding places.
Well back to the fly camp in the tower - we thought it would be mattresses and a fly sheet - no it had a kitchen and staff sleeping at the base, levels one and two had one bedroom each ( plus ensuite shower etc), floor 3 was a lounge come dining room with great views and finally the top floor was a small lookout with with sofa style seating, a coffee table and most importantly panoramic views from ocean to bush - it was where we spent all day except for the evening when we went on a game dive (taking Emanuel the young man who was looking after us along for a trip out - I think he was hoping to see the lions).
This fly camping tower is a great concept and puts a whole new meaning on fly camping - it's an experience not to be missed......just being at the same level as a bataleur eagle and watching them circle is a must!
As we arrived back from the walk very hot and sweaty the shower before breakfast was a must - luckily we had packed flip flops and T-shirt so we could dress down and relax until the evening. After breakfast we sat in the lookout which is where we remained only going to the next floor down for lunch! It was a great place to relax and refresh ourselves after yesterday's long hot day.
We could see a palm nut vulture on a tree near by, guinea fowl far below us and a bataleur eagle on the ground eating something it had caught.
On our late afternoon drive we saw all the species we hadn't seen like buffalo
(a large herd of 50+) and wildebeest - we also saw the lion again - only because they growled albeit they were much nearer the road - it goes to show how well they blend into dry grass - on this occasion the mating couple had been joined by a third female - who was either fat or pregnant -so hopefully the lion numbers in the park will grow very soon. On our way back we saw the family of elephant we guessed were heading our way albeit we didn't see them pass the tower.
We got back at 7 ish and it was getting dark - dinner was by candlelight so as not to disturb the animals.
We didn't hear anything but they were around as next morning we saw fresh genet, civet, hyena and elephant tracks! Infra red lights would be handy for the total experience .
The day ended after dinner ( an interesting meal - great veggie soup, a good vegetable sauce on rice but a weird desert announced as banana and mushroom crepe - well I was wary of the mushroom, couldn't taste the banana so decided to eat only the nice crepe after removing the filling!!) with coffee in the 'look out' shortly followed by bed even though I would have liked to have stayed longer in the cool refreshing air listening to life and watching the moon come up, too many clouds tonight though, my eyes said no time for bed !