Even in the early morning the heat was building in Ankarana (west) - but we were off today on the next leg of our journey so we left Iharana bush camp just after breakfast and headed towards our next stop Montaigne de Ambre and its cooler climes. The first part of the trip took us through previously unseen countryside and further insights into the Malagassy way of life. After reaching the Ankarana Park entrance,in the east, we were back on the same old potholed bumpy national route 6 that we had been on before; the next new stretch was after the turnoff for Joffreville which would took us to the national park and the Litchi Tree - our new home for two nights.
As we reached the east park entrance Jack stopped and spoke to someone who informed him that sadly yesterday the Italian tourist had been found dead by a villager looking for wood. He was 3km from where he was last seen, not on a path but still had his passport and money on him. What happened is a mystery - probably the heat of the sun and whatever was making him tired combined and he wandered off in a confused state - that said we will never know.
On our trip through the countryside we witnessed them bringing in the sugar cane harvest - now being grown again thanks to a Chinese company reopening the factory. It is 24/7 work for 3 months but gives the locals much needed income for those months.
As we continued some young boys who had been catching wild ducks on the lake offered to sell one to the driver and guide - luckily we had no room!
Continuing on we went through villages where people of all ages were sitting outside their huts breaking stone (basalt) with small hammers - the chippings were sold to road building companies (route 6 needed some!); every house had a pile outside it. I don't imagine that the price was princely but it would buy some much needed rice. The work was not without danger as this slivers of rock can go into their eyes - in the UK it would not pass health and safety!
We continued on to the Litchi tree - a lovely old colonial house with outbuildings which had been converted into cool chic spacious bedrooms; the main house had the lounge, dining room, owners accommodation and fantastic views of the land and sea to the north (Diego Suarez) and the rainforest behind. We quickly dropped our bags off and changed into long trousers and shirts for our afternoon walk in the forest. First however we stopped at a forest camp site for a pre booked cooked lunch - enterprising locals cook for the many visitors - it was a very good meal of bread, rice, salad and sautéed vegetables for me with the addition of chicken for John. Dessert was the sweetest papaya I have tasted - Jack bought it from a roadside stall enroute. We then walked to see a waterfall followed by a good walk in the forest spotting chameleons, a few birds - in particular the amber mountain rock thrush which is only found here- and lemurs - Sandfords brown and crowned lemurs are the only diurnal species found here - we saw both. Today's picture is of the smallest chameleon they have in the park - it is sitting on the guides hand - they thought it was the smallest anywhere but a smaller one has recently be found on a Madagascan island. Apparently there are lots around and because they are large ant sized you never know if you are standing on one! However they do still have the biggest chameleon which is 35cm from nose to tail tip.
At about 5pm we returned to the lodge to freshen up and have supper along with an Australian lady travelling alone and a group of 3 (one US and two Canadians)-needless to say we swopped stories of things we had seen and compared itineraries - all slightly different but covering the same range of wildlife....the country is so big you couldn't do everything unless you went for a couple of months - that said you can do most things in 21-30 days.
The owner of the hotel, a young Frenchman, was also the chef so everything was homemade and very delicious - yum. His partner a Malagassy lady had a very bold three year old daughter who kept us entertained - I have decided speaking French with a three year old is a very good way to develop your skills!