At 0730, after breakfast, we left the lodge for the east entrance of the park our intention was to meet the driver at the other end of the trail have a picnic lunch and then visit a cave before going to our next lodge, Iharana bush camp, for one night.
At 0730 it was already getting warm but a nice breeze and the forest gave us good shade - the forest with all the wildlife is really a narrow strip bounded by areas of Tsingy (jagged limestone) - in the west it is mountain sized in the east it is more like a plateau (see today's photo).
As we started out the lemurs were already resting in the tops of the trees after their early foraging trips - we saw Sandfords brown lemurs and crowned lemurs.
When we got to the path to the bridge across the Tsingy we agreed we would do the circular route and rejoin the path we were on further along rather than go to the bridge and return via the same route. We knew we would be more out in the open but didn't really realise how different it was going to be - walking over the Tsingy really revealed the sharpness of the rock itself and the deep gullies between the rocks - falling was not an option I fancied! The vegetation was specially modified to conserve water and was already coming into leaf in anticipation of the soon to arrive wet season. As we got to the bridge the gaps you had to squeeze through we're not for big people even back packs made it a bit of a trial. After the bridge the relatively easy trekking became more challenging - down steep often narrow steps, through underground tunnels - which will be full of water in the wet season, and up equally steep narrow slopes - it took an hour plus to do 1.3km - it felt a lot more! As we got towards the end of the circuit I saw a large red tree with peeling bark and asked what it was 'Vassa' Jack replied and explained it meant foreigner - I asked where it had come from - he said that it was indigenous but they called it Vassa because the bark peeled when it was hot and dry just like foreigners .....a very apt name! We also saw fossa poo - we saw some yesterday so they clearly live in the area. As we started the next segment the walk to the English camp ( where English researchers used to be based but now derelict) and lunch the guide said this was the first time in 10 years he had done this section - why we asked - tourists don't want to walk they would rather visit the caves by car - but that would have been at least 3 hours driving and we would have missed a great walk, wildlife and a geological experience second to none - people don't know what they are missing. The next phase only took an hour but we stopped on route for a snack of banana and mango - 'have you got a knife for the mango' I asked like a typical European - 'no we dont use knives' Jack replied - I suppose I knew that really as we have seen several people picking mangoes off trees and eating them - so never thwarted and desperately wanting the delicious mango I peeled it easily with my teeth and ate it - wet wipes again to the rescue to clean sticky hands! We continued on arriving before the driver who enroute was collecting our packed lunch - while waiting we watched a harrier hawk circling overhead and crowned lemurs who were making their way through the area including two mums with babies. As soon as lunch was unpacked we sat down at a remaining table left at the campsite to eat - and soon became aware of 4 onlookers - the family of lemurs I had watched earlier were now watching us and were sat on the log directly behind us - no doubt watching to see if we dropped anything. Lunch with lemurs what a treat - I took 70+ photos - we didn't give them anything until it came to desert - mangos again - yum- as it is a fruit they regularly eat we let them have the skin.
Lunch over we packed up and headed off to see the large Tsingy mountains and look at a cave - not our favourite experience - it was nice and cool inside and I did get a picture of the little bats who live there. We called a halt after about 20 minutes - there is only so much you can see in pitch black with a torch - the light from the cave entrance was a very welcome sight as we walked back - not least it meant we would soon be driving to the lodge for a much needed shower.
The hour long drive back allowed another glimpse at rural life in Madagascar - as our vehicle approached two young girls on a bicycle they dropped it and ran - no they had not stolen it - the guide reckoned they ran as some are told myths and become frightened of white people because they believe we remove their hearts - they did look frightened. That said most children wave and smile when they see us. Then as we crossed a river a young guy who had been fishing asked the driver and guide if they wanted to buy his just caught crayfish - a quick look at the produce and they gave him 10000 ariary (£3) for 15....all happy he kissed the note and handed it to his wife who put it in their wallet!
We arrived at the lodge 10 minutes later - best described as rustic chic - French owner - basic but chic chalet nicely furnished with shower ( cold only - but just what we needed) and a flushing toilet. The views across the lake to the tsingy massif were lovely particularly as they were bathed in the light of the setting sun. Dinner was the closest we have come yet to fine dining - albeit that doesn't mean it was the tastiest that goes to the vegetable au gratin at the open air restaurant in Ankaifantsika.