Raf and I arrived in Sa Pa quite late, having stopped on the way at a waterfall that was just outside of the town. We acted as interested and as enthusiastically as we possibly could after a three long days of riding. The waterfall was nice and I'm glad we went to see it but all I really wanted (and needed) was a hostel with shower. I met up with George who was a 2 day veteran of Sa Pa. I met him at the hostel that he had been staying at, checked in and had, what felt like, the best shower in the world. Feeling clean and fresh, we then hit the bars. Bia Saigon is now Bia Hanoi- it tastes just as good but it's just another indicator that we've moved north. Along with the beer, the change in the accent, the cuisine and the people are all noticeable. I suppose no different to England. Maybe a North-South divide is worldwide, if there is such a thing...

It's been a welcome change of pace here and I haven't touched my bike for a couple of days, other than a well-needed wash! It's been a nice break but I've missed it.

Similar to Dalat, the high mountain setting means the climate is cool and much more comfortable for a westerner- the high 30's have become high 20's. It's even made exercise possible. George and I have spent the last day and a half trekking with local tribeswoman to her home in the mountains. Unfortunately, there hasn't been time to attempt the highest peak in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos; Mt. Fansipan, but we have walked through valleys, along rivers and up and down mountains. All of which are a daily route for Mo, our guide, from her house to the town. Her house was a simple wooden structure that has had mains electric for almost three years now. Her husband works the fields everyday and she sells hemp clothing at the market. The difference in lifestyles between most of us westerners and theirs is vast. In a way, theirs is something to aspire to. It's simple- they have everything they need and live very closely with one another. The have a roof over their head and food on their table, what more do you need, so why strive for more? On the day we left, Mo and her husband weren't going to work, instead they were going to help build her sister's new house. It was refreshing to see an in-materialistic (if that is such a word) world first-hand.

They cooked us great food which they said was unlimited if we wanted. A dangerous thing to say to a couple of hungry travellers. That night, we were in bed by 8 which was a suitable time for a 4.30 wake-up, a normal alarm on a Vietnamese farm. Daylight is important, the dark is useless and an early bedtime is also the best way to escape the evening's mosquitos. Mo's children woke early and were ready for school before I had got out of bed. They had prepared another huge meal for us, that we ate gratefully but still half asleep. Yet again, we've been spoilt by our hosts and it's another experience I will always remember. The goodbyes took much longer than the hike back and she made us sure that we'd always be welcomed back into her home whenever we were passing. It's another place that I would love to stay longer but my bloody visa says I must move on. Note to self: when in doubt, get a three month visa.

Tonight I have to get ready for tomorrow's long ride to Halong Bay, probably two days but it all depends on the roads. I've planned a coffee stop on the Chinese border but apart from that, I'm taking it as it comes.

I have just heard that a few friends, that I met back in Cambodia, have just arrived in town, so maybe it's a few drinks tonight and a delayed start tomorrow...