"Oh…my….god!", in the fashion that Janice would say to Chandler Bing (generally upon unexpectedly bumping into Chandler Bing, I think). Scuba diving is amazing! The world of the fish, and I'm hooked (sorry, pun genuinely not intended). Maybe the novelty will wear off, but the first couple of mini underwater expeditions have been an absolute revelation to me. The virtual silence, bar some gentle rippling of bubble streams rising from fellow divers, and the weightless, slow motion movement through the water, create an unbelievable sense of peacefulness. And then there's the incredible array of sub-marine creatures all around. Mainly fish, of course, but such variety in colours, shapes and sizes, and all swimming around and between us in an aura of fishy confidence, as we're in their domain, where they're kings. Just brilliant.

The whole thing couldn't have gone better, actually. After arriving trance-like, following an overnight bus journey (the coldest I've ever endured, thanks to an absurdly set up air-con system!) and a two hour wait at Chumphon port, before a half seven catamaran transfer to Koh Tao, I had a much needed day of general nothingness, interspersed with naps, before scuba training began the next day. An initial concern was being in too large a group (well, not one that I'd thought of, but a generally considered aspect of which dive company to choose, it turns out), but after our initial briefing, German Nikolai decided to wait for a German speaking instructor to become available, and after our first day of classroom and then pool instruction, intense Canadian Eric decided, not surprisingly, to take the fast-track course in two and a half days, instead of the usual four (a relief to lose my potential diving partner, I have to admit). Which left just three of us, perfect given the apparently desirable limit of four, myself and Dutch duo Koen and Simon. The "dream team", as Koen came up with one time, and which I'm happy to go along with! And I couldn't have asked for better dive buddies (a "buddy", incidentally, for non-divers, being the technical term for your dive partner). Diving isn't dangerous if you do it right, but you don't want to be with idiots giving you any concerns that they might not be, nor would you enjoy it quite so much if you were simply with people you didn't like. But these two Arnhem based football fanatics were genuine, enthusiastic and considerate, ticking all the dive buddy boxes, and generally great company, so we hung out eating and drinking most evenings too, with varying other company, including Swede Adam and German Steven, doing the same course as us but a day behind, Canadian Cat and Gill from Ireland, both doing slightly different courses. Oh, and Paula, of course, when she eventually arrived on Koh Tao!

Paula turned up about half way through my time on Koh Tao. Well timed, as it was just as I was finishing the course, to chill out for a few days. And while I'd been learning to relax my breathing underwater, she'd been learning to do the same on land in various yoga positions. We are both now excellent at breathing.

Buddha View, my chosen dive school (and chosen school of Sun and Rob many years ago!), was really good as well. A great atmosphere and location, and with the professionalism a first time scuba diver needs to perceive. We had to change instructors twice, which was initially disappointing on both occasions, but then only because each instructor had seemed so good. In hindsight, however, it was good to experience the approach and expertise of all three. Laid back Aussie James started us off, confident but in a reassuring, not arrogant, way, purging us of any pre-diving fears, and expertly lightening the atmosphere with amusing anecdotes (many relating to a particular group of Irish lads he'd once had, one of whom, it transpired once they'd actually hit the ocean, couldn't even swim!) and suitable stereotypical Aussie (c)rudeness for his youthful audience. He also ended most sentences with the word "hey", which was intriguing; perhaps a personal teaching aid, who knows. Secondly, and briefly, just one morning classroom stint, was German Arnie soundalike, and almost lookalike with his huge frame and short cropped hair, Hannes. Also very laid back and entertaining, but clearly confident and knowledgeable, all of which is evidently a working formula, he taught us about some specific marine life, amongst other things, a lesson which included one particularly memorable and entertaining Arnie-alike line, which went "in ze film, Nemo is really nice, bud iz nat true! In realidy, ze clown fish is a nasty liddle madderfacker!". Genius. And apologies mum, but that is a quote. And then finally, ironing out our diving technique creases, was Dorset lass Dani, with contagious enthusiasm and also a clear knowledge of what she was doing.

And that was that, a quick written exam later and we were qualified scuba divers! And a couple of days later, the dream team reformed, adding a deep dive to our repertoire, with Norwegian instructor Helena, which enhanced our certification for diving, from depths of 18m to 30m. Shipwrecks here we come!

And on top of the diving, icing on the cake has been provided by excellent food, continuing on from Bangkok's fine example, the aforementioned good company, the cool bars leaning out over the sea, with cheap beer and a great vibe set by anything from chilled out Dylan, Massive Attack and Oasis classics, to party-time Killers and Rage Against The Machine (and no homemade South East Asian pop whatsoever!). And then, finally, simply being by sea and sand, both the sounds and sights providing welcome therapeutic, tropical relaxation.

Right, if all goes well, we're off to the other end of Thailand next, somewhere north of Chiang Mai, to help an American guy called Steven and his Thai compatriots build a new farm. News to follow if and when it all works out!