Day 42 to 43 -11th to 12th December - Klein's Camp
Point of departure : Lake Manyara
Point of arrival : Serengeti
Accommodation: Klein's Camp (www.andbeyondafrica.com)
Km travelled today: 0 km Cum: 8 478km (gravel 0km cum 2 117km)
Countries so far: 5/16
Where to next? Arusha
Total number of photos taken: 192 (cum 2 366)

An early start (06h30), from the Tree Lodge in order to meet our 08h30 flight to Kleins. All the staff assembled to bid us farewell in true & Beyond tradition. A bit of game viewing including: elephants and hippo, but no tree climbing lions. What we did get a lot of was RAIN. We subsequently heard that people who left after us had to take a long detour due to a river crossing becoming flooded.

We made it to the airport as the incoming plane was landing and were soon on our way having said farewell to our fellow South African travelling companions, Derek and Sheila (who were going on to the Crater Lodge).

On the flight to Kleins we met Masato and Katie Nakawaga, on honeymoon and also going to Kleins. On landing we met our new guide, Mally and guide Moisango and headed off for camp with game viewing along the way. What a start to our Kleins' experience… elephant, buffalo, giraffe, cheetah, lion pride (22). Then a warm welcome from Tiffany and staff and, a wonderful lunch looking out over the plains below.

What a surprise to arrive and see a Christmas tree - our first sighting of a tree - decorated in Maasai beaded stars and circles with fairly lights. We also enjoyed the slow arrival of a wonderful African downpour with thunder and lightning, and as it passed it left the air fragrant and cool.

The afternoon/night game drive, in slightly overcast and damp conditions, was also great. Once again, the pride of 22 lions, 2 leopard cubs, another pride of 8 lions and the dominant male (which ruled both prides) and an abundance of other game and birds - all up close and personal. The beauty of being able to drive offroad.

Klein's camp is perched on the edge of the Kuka Hills on land bordering the Serengeti which is leased from the Masai. The camp features 10 cottages with breathtaking views over the surrounding plains. Each cottage is made out of local stone and makuti with wooden floors and classic interiors.

The Serengeti, one of Africa's most famous game reserves is renowned for its dense predator population and its annual wildebeest migration. Serengeti translates from Maasai as 'endless plains' or 'an extended area'.

The park covers an area of almost 15 000 sq km but the Serengeti ecosystem which includes a number of game reserves bordering the park (of which Klein's is one) as well as Kenya's Maasai Mara is more than double that size.

Day 43 - the morning game drive was again rewarding, finding as we did (spotted by Masato) the mother leopard and her two cubs and spent at least an hour with them as she groomed and then walked with them. We also saw the male lion, spread out on his viewpoint rock watching the plains below. A magnificent mane!

Mally and Moisango found a pleasant spot for breakfast in the bush, with fruit and cereals, bacon, egg and sausage, toast, tea, coffee… the works. Really great.
Then, to the nearby Maasai village for a cultural visit. This was the real deal, not a tourist set up, unannounced arrival and really seeing life as it is for the Maasai. The central kraal for the cattle, and a separate one for goats, were both empty with animals out grazing with the layoni (young boys) but there was ample supply of cow dung, one of the principle materials used in building their huts (which the women build). As we were there, one Maasai woman was walking the kraal picking up dung to apply to the roof of her house. We then went into one of the huts, where, after our eyes had adjusted to almost zero light, Mally introduced us to the young woman, and gave us the run down on the housing of young livestock inside the house, tribal traditions regarding sleeping arrangements and the cooking that was happening inside the hut as we visited. This was Maasai tribal life… unplugged. Not quite to a westerner's taste but very interesting and instructive.

Along the drive we saw many cattle carcasses - the drought in Tanzania has been severe and the Maasai have lost over 50% of their cattle this year. Hopefully the rains will bring life back into the plains.

Both of us were feeling a little worse for wear with colds/flu and our afternoon nap overran itself and we missed the afternoon game drive. Nevertheless, a pleasant and relaxed evening in camp with a medicinal G &T at the bar overlooking the plains, early dinner and early night together with a hot toddy and medication kindly provided by Tiffany.

We bade farewell to Masato and Katie, who we would not be seeing the following day (as we were leaving). It was their first visit to Africa and it was a pleasure for us to experience their wonder and excitement of the sights, sounds and smells of the African bush. They were so enthusiastic about everything and it was a real pleasure to be with them - a lovely couple. Also bid farewell to Mally and Moisango - a team who is very passionate about the wildlife - thank you for a most memorable two days at Kleins.