Day 89 to 90 - 27th to 28th January - Lake Nasser & Aswan

Point of departure : Wadi Halfa

Point of arrival : Aswan, Egypt

Accommodation: Ferry

Km travelled today: 0km

Countries so far: 8/16

Where to next? Aswan, Egypt

Total number of photos taken: 45 (cum 3 996)

We struck camp early and were ready to leave our "wild camp" by 09h00. Not sure what possessed us but we took a shortcut back to Wadi Halfa close to the Lake and Murphy's Law, the Beast got stuck in the mud (very deceiving mud). Needless to say it took us one hour and five attempts (with the max tracks) to reverse out. Thank you Alain for helping John.

We had heard that the "Tour d'Afrique" a bicycle ride down Africa with some 74 participants this year had arrived in Wadi Halfa on the incoming ferry. We had hoped to see them, but getting stuck in the mud put paid to this.

Arrived at Wadi Halfa at 10h30, the Beast covered in mud only to be advised by Mr Mahir that the large barge (which we could drive the Beast and the motor bikes onto today) would only leave Wadi Halfa on Saturday, arriving Monday - too late for us. Second option, leave the Beast and its two companions behind to sail tomorrow Thursday (when the barge from Aswan arrives and offloads the vehicles coming in from Egypt) to arrive in Aswan on Saturday - not too happy but no other viable option left.

Off to our "local restaurant" with its resident flies for our last meal in Sudan to be greeted warmly by the owner and his daughter (we have now become regulars - lunch 3 days in a row!)

At 12h30 we head for the port and after immigration and customs formalities we bade the Beast and the two motor bikes farewell (with the Beast loaded with the helmets and spare bike tyres) and boarded the ferry. Not as chaotic as we had envisaged and the ferry actually departed early -16h00 (we were expecting 17h00 to 18h00).

Alain, Christine and us had booked "first" class cabins but with hindsight Alexei was the brightest one (he booked second class on the top deck and slept in his tent). Marina and Christine used up a whole can of Doom in both cabins. Be forewarned all you future ferry users - take Doom - because the roaches lurk in the dining room too! The toilets were "s***ty" to say the least - smelly and disgustingly dirty. (Another warning to future ferry users - take toilet paper - there ain't any on the ferry!) We were pleased with our purchase of two sleeping bags in Addis (specifically for the ferry) because there was no way we were going to lie on that bedding. Marina was very tempted to duct tape her mouth so that the roaches would not get in (John warmed to this idea for Marina as well, but had lacked the foresight to bring the tape with him).

As the sun set, we had a beautiful view of Lake Nasser and the desert - only to be spoilt by the APPALLING disposal of garbage (huge black plastic bags) literally thrown overboard into the Lake.

No late lie in (even if we wanted to) as we had the usual 05h00 "call to prayer" blurted across the ferry's intercom. The ferry arrived in Aswan on time at 08h00 and we could not dock due to a full house. Only at 11h00 did we get a mooring. Then Immigration formalities - completed by 11h30 and ONLY at 13h30 did the Port Police give permission for passengers to disembark… or let's rephrase that… stampede off the ferry. Once again, sharpening our elbows we pushed and shoved our way off the ferry, through the security scanning machines and out to "Arrival Hole" (certainly felt like one, but we assumed they meant " Hall"). Like they say, when in Rome, do like the Romans do - we had no choice but to push and shove otherwise we would still be there. The patience of the locals (which we as westerners certainly lack) while waiting for five hours for disembarkation was something to behold, but it seemed to quickly evaporate once the disembarkation process started with a rush, scramble and scrum for position towards the "Arrival Hole" (that's what the sign said).

Arrived at our hotel to pure BLISS! A hot shower - the first in 12 days - and clean clothes.