Day 114 - Tobruk, Libya

Point of departure: Mersa Matruh (Egypt)

Point of arrival : Tobruk

Accommodation: Funduq Zahratalbutman

Km travelled today: 425k Cum: 19 373km (gravel 0km cum 4 649km)

Countries so far: 10/16

Where to next? Zliten

No of photos: 25 (cum 5 239)

Another early start today (06h00) to give ourselves sufficient time to complete border formalities… and we needed it. Even leaving Egypt took a little over an hour and then across the border into Libya to meet our guide, Wesam, who had our visas etc.Wesam took care of the formalities, but it still took time! The passport checks seemed more thorough than any we have encountered, and then the Beast and the Libyan number plates. However, 3 hours later, we were finally on our way to Tobruk (our first night stop in Libya). The word Tobruk resonates with World War II and specifically the North African campaigns, where one of the most important battles of WWII took place.

On arrival, our first stop was the World War II cemeteries, the Tobruk Commonwealth and the Knightsbridge (Acroma) Cemetries. On this cold wind swept day, they are both sombre and poignant reminders of the ferocity of battle almost 70 years ago. It is difficult to imagine that the scale of loss of life and injury experienced back then would be tolerated in the environment of today. Rows and rows of headstones of young men killed in the prime of life, and here, the messages on the headstones seemed more personal… from mums and dads, sisters and brothers, wives and children. It was sobering for us that even the following generation, the children of those who perished, are already in the twilight of their own lives, and wonder who will be remembering them now. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission is doing a wonderful job in maintaining these places of remembrance, long may they do so.

The Knightsbridge Cemetery (on the actual battleground site) has 3 649 graves within its walls. Of these, 986 are of unknown soldiers with the headstones marked "Known unto God". Nationalities represented here are: UK, New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, India, Canada, France, Greece, Poland and Yugoslavia. The Tobruk Commonwealth Cemetery contains over 2 479 graves - not only Commonwealth countries but ALL who fought for the Allied cause. There is also the French Cemetery with over 300 soldiers (including Muslim soldiers who fought alongside the French) buried here who fought in the Battle of Bir Hakim in May and June 1942. Let's not forget the German Cemetery built in 1955 with 6026 German soldiers' names inscribed in mosaic slabs lining the inside of the Fort's walls. The Italians were repatriated by the Italian Government. (Source Lonely Planet Guide Libya).

We checked into our hotel and an early night as we have a long way to go tomorrow.