Day 74 to 75 - 12th to 13th January - Historic Route

Point of departure : Addis Ababa

Point of arrival : Bahir Dar

Accommodation: rooftop tent @ Ghion Hotel, Bahir Dar

Km travelled today: 560km Cum: 14 162km (gravel 0 km cum 3 614km)

Countries so far: 7/16

Where to next? Lalibela

Total number of photos taken: 107 (cum 3 296)

A full day to get through to Bahir Dar so we planned for a reasonably early start and left "chez GOS" with Graham at about 08h30 and after a visit to the city view site (a waste of time due to the trees and smog) we were properly on our way by just after 09h30.From the altitude of 2 400m in the city, we established a new highest altitude at the view site just over 3 000m.

The road from Addis Ababa was pretty good and trouble free with the first land mark at about 195km, namely the Blue Nile Gorge, where we plunged from 2600m to just over a 1 000m in about 16km of driving.Probably one of the most spectacular pieces of road anywhere as it twists and turns down the escarpment with fantastic views of the gorge and the Blue Nile river below.The road was initially built by the Italians (an awesome feat of engineering) and has been recently upgraded by the Japanese.We crossed the Blue Nile on the new bridge (the old one lies next to it).The climb out was not quite so dramatic but also pretty.The gorge follows the course of the Blue Nile as it flows out of Lake Tana into south west Ethiopia and then crosses into the Sudan.

Then on towards Debre Markos (no stop) and the final 256km to Bahir Dar.The road was much better today with patches of gravel here and there but for very short distances, fewer pedestrians, animals and animal draw carts.Generally a more civilised driving experience with a highest altitude before the gorge of 3100m.

Debre Markos (formerly Mankorar - "cold place") claim to fame is as the site of the surrender of +/- 14 000 Italian troops to a mere 300 members of the combined Ethiopian-Allied army in April 1941 - a key event in the collapse of the Italian occupation.

Bahir Dar is situated on the southern shore of Lake Tana (source of the Blue Nile and exits the lake at the eastern side). The lake at 3 600 sq km is Ethiopia's largest lake. The lake has 37 islands sheltering 27 monasteries - surviving remnants of an old contemplative tradition.Because of their isolation, these monasteries were used to store art treasures and religious relics from all over the country.Legend has it that the Ark of the Convenant was kept here on one of these islands when Axum was endangered.

We knew we would have to lower our expectations in Ethiopia but on arrival at the Ghion Hotel it was a bit of a culture shock.Very retro 50's and "camping" was in the backyard of the hotel.However, the place has grown on us, the people are friendly and helpful and there are hot showers and a sit down toilet (not that we get to actually sit but better than squatting).For dinner we had fried Tilapia (fresh fish from Lake Tana) with rice and vegetables - pretty good.

Day 75 - we decided to sleep in a bit today (only got up at 07h45) and then after a visit to the bank (right opposite the hotel) we headed out to the Blue Nile Falls.A quaint feature of the walk to the Falls was crossing the Portuguese bridge (built back in 1632 by the Portuguese).A stone arched structure, it joins the banks below the Falls, even had extra drainage holes for when the water rose too high and is still used today for pedestrian and donkey traffic.Some things, at least, really stand the test of time.

Blue Nile Falls - about 30km after the Blue Nile exits Lake Tana, it plunges over a 45m high rock face to form one of Africa's spectacular waterfalls, known locally as Tis Abay (Smoke of the Nile) or Tis Isat (Water that Smokes).The Nile is 400m wide above the waterfall and in the gorge below it follows a much narrower course estimated to be 37m deep.However, due to the new hydro electric scheme, the bulk of the water has been diverted and the Falls are not nearly as impressive as they were 7 or 8 years ago.The hydro electric scheme was first built by the Italians and was recently upgraded and "rebuilt" by the Chinese/Korean/Kenyans. Still a beautiful waterfall - a mini Victoria Falls in its day.It's Ethiopia's premier waterfall.

The 18th century Scottish traveller James Bruce who is credited as the first white person to see Tis Abay (in fact the waterfall was known to the Portuguese at least 100 years before Bruce's visit) described the fall as a magnificent sight.

On the way to the Falls (on a gravel road) we heard an expensive sounding noise coming from the Beast's back right wheel. After listening to the noise for a few more minutes John deduced it might be a stone lodged in the wheel. Back at camp, the wheel was removed and a little stone the size of a small marble was seen and removed from the brake and we hope that is the solution to the problem. We love being in Ethiopia but the Beast doesn't seem to like the Ethiopian roads.

This afternoon we took a boat ride out to one of the 27 monasteries and to the outlet of the Blue Nile River from Lake Tana.The monastery, Debra Mariam (Debra meaning "church" and Mariam "Mary aka St Mary").The church dates back to the 12th century and the inner sanctuary is the original building.The outer section was built ten years ago to protect the inner sanctuary.We met the monk/priest who showed us the 900 year old books of St Mary, St John and St David.The cover of the books are made of wood and the pages goat skin.The bell (the two stones - see picture) is also 900 years old and is "rung" three times a day to call the villagers to prayer.

Back to the Ghion hotel for sundowners and dinner.