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Varanasi, India
The journey through Kashmir from Leh to Jammu via Srinagar was supposed to be pretty straight forward, that was until the Indian police decided to shoot dead 3 civilians during a demonstration at Srinagar while we were en route. We arrived in Srinagar to find ourselves caught in a curfew, the roads eerily quiet, only stray dogs and the tetchy military wandering the streets. After some discussion we were assured that it was safe to leave for Jammu late at nigh...