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Initially we weren't sure of what to expect from Tibet.Having read a number of books on the 'Cultural Revolution' (aka the invasion by the Chinese), we knew that there would be a huge influence from China, but we weren't prepared for the dramatic contrasts at play.
Day one of the eight day tour was rather frantic, rushing through the border between Nepal and Tibet before it closed (there is a 2 1/4 hour time difference between the countries), lugging bags up hills and the constant herding together of the group.We were 27 people in total, being escorted through Tibet on a large bus with an English speaking Tibetan guide.
The tour route took us on the Friendship Highway to the capital of old Tibet, Lhasa.It's very much a tour of the country that the Chinese government want tourists to see.Along newly paved roads, passing through strictly monitored check-points, staying in Chinese-owned accommodation etc.It's heart-breaking to see traditional Tibetan settlements reduced to rubbish dumps, overshadowed with newly constructed concrete buildings housing Chinese restaurants and shops selling plastic tat.It's evident that the Tibetans are being made a minority in their homeland.
The highlight of any trip through the country is the landscape - dramatic, inspiring and emotive, it really has to be seen to be believed.Described as the 'Rooftop of the World', Tibet really does evoke feelings of power and insignificance, passing by towering mountains and raging rivers, mother-nature really does show off her talents here.
Another reason for our trip to the Rooftop of the World, was to visit the ancient Buddhist palaces and monasteries.During our first visit at the Tashi Lumpo Monastery in Shigatse, we were accompanied by a Chinese 'tourist' who slyly took photos of the group, stood close enough to monitor conversations and had a keen and threatening eye on the tour guide.We had been warned that the Chinese government has eyes and ears everywhere, but we didn't even consider this as truth until we experienced it first hand with the undercover spy following our every move!
The Buddhist religion has succeeded to survive in Tibet and forms a huge part of the culture of Tibetans, as it did over 60 years ago, prior to Chinese occupation.We found the palaces and monasteries wonderfully peaceful places to escape the obvious suppression and can only guess that these are places of sanctuary for the locals.The colour that is drained from the streets and buildings outside is abundant in the Buddhist buildings of worship and it's plain to see how happy the places make the visitors.Any mention of the 13th Dalai Lama though and you'll be whisked off to an unknown location, never to be seen again, for mentioning or possessing a picture of him is a criminal offence.
A highlight of the trip was a visit to the Potala Palace in Lhasa.This is the traditional Winter Palace of the Dalai Lama and had been the home of the Tibetan government for centuries before Chinese rule.Now it's a shell of its former self, manned by guards resembling Oompa Loompas donning orange uniforms and otherwise empty aside from the hordes of tourists.The palace is an architectural masterpiece, looming over the city of Lhasa it is a breathtaking site and we loved walking around the perimeter gazing up at the majestic building.The only down-side was that we were only permitted one hour to walk around the interior, being herded along and barked at by the Oopma Loompas.
The Tibetans are a visibly repressed, sad nation of people.Unable to outwardly express their support and love for their spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama who currently resides in exile in India, they are silenced into obedience.The fear we harbour is that as a nation, the Tibetans will soon be extinct, to be replaced by Chinese nationals, ready to utilise and destroy the beautiful Tibetan countryside with the ever-increasing power plants and manufacturing sites.
At the end of the eight day tour we were exhausted, from the travel, the tour group and the monasteries.However we felt somewhat content that we'd seen Tibet and the Tibetan culture before it altogether vanishes.It's rare for a nation to disappear into the history books, but we feel it won't be long before this happens.On a more positive note, the Tibetans are still fleeing into exile to India, Mcleod Ganj, where a mini Tibet lives on, strong and more united than ever...proving there's still hope in keeping the Tibetan culture alive into the future, albeit in a different land.
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