We arrived in Belize City by nightfall, after crossing the border and travelling down from Tulum, and went straight to a hostel called Seaside Guest House. Mich, the friendly (stoned) American owner, greeted us and showed us around. Turning on a small night light (apparently he was 'having a few problems with the electricity'), he showed us the room whilst donning an unconvincing smile and giving a gracing sweep of his arm. Tired and hungry we took it, dumped our bags and headed to the bar downstairs.

After a few drinks and some deep chat from Mich, it became quite clear that he is an alcoholic recluse who spends his life downloading music (Radiohead on repeat in the background). Our thoughts were confirmed when after offering to cook us dinner, we saw a huge cockroach climbing over the kitchen surface and Mich's response to our yelps was: 'they're here all the time…can't be bothered to fight a losing battle'….another paying guest was greeted in the morning by Mich rubbing his grubby dog with tick lotion whilst offering to 'whip up some breakfast'…hmmm.

After a strange night in the city - Saturday night and not a sober sole to be seen, only stray dogs (sad again), w****s and the local crackheads staggering the streets - we caught a boat to the idyllic Caye Caulker. In the Caribbean this little island provided the experience we were craving for in Belize. Great seafood, lots of sun and amazing cocktails! We spent a few days lazing around, going on boat tours and snorkeling with sharks and sting rays, before heading back to the mainland with a couple of newfound friends - a British girl, Steph and an Irish lad, Derek.

Once we hit the mainland we headed for a small town near the border of Guatemala (our next stop), called San Ignacio. It was a welcome change travelling with 2 others, as it meant that I could have some 'girlie time' and James could do 'boys stuff'. We decided to head out of the main town and stay in a remote place in the middle of the forest, called Barton Creek Outpost. As English is the main language spoken in Belize there are heaps of ex-pats, mainly Americans, who have set up home there. We stayed with a lovely family, camping on their land, walking through the local Mennonite community (which was fascinating) and bathing in the river…James and Derek jumping off anything that could be climbed (boys stuff) whilst Steph and I watched, chatted and sunbathed (girlie time).

From here we headed to another remote location nearer to San Ignacio. We stayed in a beautiful place called Parrots Nest, again, owned and run by an American couple. About 2 months ago there were major rains in Guatemala and Mexico which resulted in the area around San Ignacio in Belize to be completely washed away…a freak flood that has devastated the entire community. Parrots Nest is clearly not as it was a few months ago, but we all 4 still enjoyed a leisurely trip down the river in inflatable rings and a swing in a few hammocks. Time was up and money was drying out…Belize took us by complete surprise as it's so expensive. Any longer than a week there and we'd be home next month!