Friday 11th May

Off to Xi'an today. We slept on and off through the night no dramas this time. My cold was easing up but I was still congested and coughing. Taking aspirin helped clear my head for a while a least.

Downstairs in the bar we ordered breakfast for the last time. During which time Frank tried to buy a bottle of water - we found out that 1 bottle of water was cheaper from reception than the bar as a back and forth went on between Frank and the barman (who's english wasn't that hot)...

Frank: (holding up one bottle) "2 Yuan?

Barman: "You want 2 bottle?"

Frank: "No, I want one. Is it 2 yuan?"

Barman: (already fetching second bottle) "2 bottle?"

Frank: "No, I just want one bottle. Is it 2 yuan?"

Barman: "It's one bottle."

Frank: "Yeah ..... how much is it?"

Barman: "3 yuan."

Frank: "?!? It's not 2 yuan?"

Barman: "???"

Frank got the bottle from reception, it cost 2 yuan.

Back in the room we packed our bags and did our usual sweep of the room to make sure we didnt forget anything. Checked out and headed off on the metro for Beijing West Railway Station. In China, regarding stations, Bei is North, Dong is East, Nan is South and Xi is West.

On metro an older lady offered her seat - when she was getting off, she kind of nodded at me and pointed to the seat. A lot of older Chinese people have done this. Mostly when we have our big backpacks on. She gave me a smile when I said "Xiexie" (Thank you).

Through the security (we bought our tickets via the hostel) showing our ticket and passport. Locals show their I.D passes, as mentioned previously. Callum (in Nanjing) was telling us while the Chinese can visit anywhere they want, they can not move out of the city they were born in unless they have exceptional circumstances i.e marriage to someone in another city/province or for studying. Hence the checking I.D passes against tickets.

The waiting areas in the train stations are like airport gates. They are organised in the exact same way. Most stations have 17 - 18. Smaller stations have 10 -12, the largest we saw had 22! These gates have rows of seating areas and each row will fill and empty at least 3 times an hour. You'll wait at your gate having checked your train number and its departure time on one of the 6 matrix boards you see in a row when you arrive at the station. You take a seat (if you can get one) and wait for your train to be called. The secure gate would open, tickets punched and usually you head down (sometimes up) toward the platform for your train. Xi'an is a long way from Beijing and being on a budget we had a sleeper train for our 'magic carpet ride'. A green carraige train (not like the white high speed trains). You could get hard seat (cheapest - no bed just a seat and table you share with others), hard sleeper (ours - 1 of six beds in a compartment with no doors) or soft sleeper (dearest. Same as a hard sleeper but with a door).

We had the top bunks, not much head room at all and rather noisey, but clean enough. A girl (we nicknamed 'Lauren') had one middle bunk - her boyfriend was in the next compartment. In the other middle bunk was a young woman called Crystal. She was studying to become a teacher in China. She was going to be doing some work experience in a U.K private school to finish her qualifications. Her english was good with outstanding features (sorry, couldn't help myself!). She was a lovely girl and grew up in the county where both she and her younger brother would have to walk miles up and down a mountian to get to school. She was very proud she had a good childhood and education, all whilst growing up with nature all around her.

At the next stop an old couple boarded and were occupying the bottom bunks. Aside from the large Indian family in the same carriage we were the only non - Chinese people there. The food the Indians brought on smelt amazing, Frank was watching them dish it all out between them, eating with their right hands and soaking up the sauce with nan breads. Everyone else had noodles - there's a hot water tap to fill up your noodles/tea flask with. We stocked up on a couple of pots, some peppermint tea bags and (pea) crisps. During the journey, the cities gave way to green mountains, the roads became farmed fields of 'Whusho', the sun sank lower and lower and Crystal translated some conversation between us and the elderly couple. After looking after their granchildren all week they were having a weekend away.

Some staff would tip along selling drinks, snacks and hot meals. One in particular was very enthusiastic.

"He's selling soured plums. Lots of pregnant woman crave them", Crystal informed us. Ah.

At an early stage everyone's paper ticket was collected by a steward and we all were given a generic plastic ticket. Hmm?

"You get it back before your stop". Thank goodness Crystal was with us.

Meanwhile a sweet curious little girl was trotting back and forth along the carriage saying 'hi' and playing with the Indian family - they even gave her a bindi spot. She got everyone's attention at some stage or another.

Soon enough it was lights out at 10:16. Ear plugs in, sleeping blindfold on and hope for the best. There's a rail that stops you from falling out of your bed. But that doesn't stop the terrific fright you get when the train jolts from time to time, while you (try) to sleep. Oh well. We'll be in Xi'an by morning.

It felt like a rude awaking as the train lights pierced your eyes at 4:40am, this was the wake up call. The steward returned our tickets and we readied our bags. The train pulled in to Xi'an at 5:15am. We said goodbye to Crystal and exited the station in the twilight of dawn.

We had alerted our hostel of our early arrival and asked if someone could bring us there, as per the service on thier web page. They would be there at 7:30am. Hmm, bit of a wait then!