Hey guys, finally managed to get internet... woop woop put your hands in the air! Loads to tell you guys so will do it in day by day accounts... fun times.

7th March- We were in Srinagar still, and we stayed on the house boat for 2 nights. Despite the company's (always reminds me of 'Prison break') best efforts we did not sign up for any of their treks, which were a tad on the expensive side. Instead we were lucky enough to be taken in by a Kashmiri family who owned the house boats. Both Sara and I were in pretty low spirits, so they were really friendly and took us out for the day... we did not quite know what we were getting ourselves into! After some Kashmiri tea and bread they took us on a small rowing boat to the otherside of Pal Lake. One of the daughters informed us that the mother needed to go see a magi as she was sick, so we went along. We thought that it would only take an hour tops, but 3 hours later we were still sitting in the waiting room, with random chanting coming from the Magi's room. I had a nice conversation with an indian man who lives in Pontipre (probs wrong spelling) would you believe! Eventually the Magi's curiousity got the better of him and he asked us into the room, where we sat for a further 2 hours. He then asked if we had any problems and if we would like to see him. I said yes, although I rather regret it as it was a touch embarassing! He said a man had warned me about the discotheque, that my dog was sick (mum you better not be lying to me) and also that I was a 'flying pigeon'... and I was flippant with money and if I never settle then I will never be happy... those of you who know me well will realise that this did not go down too well haha! Anyway, it was an interesting experience and he was a nice guy, surprisingly young at about 30, and he gace us a stone to bring us good luck travelling. I don't think many people could say they have been to see a Kashmirian Magi! So 8 hours later we went back home and chilled on the boat.... after such a strange day we were pretty knackered and looking forward to Amritsar on the 9th.

8th March- We did not do much, as you are not really allowed out on your own... there are soldiers EVERYWHERE and they are not that friendly or forthcoming... in fact most of them just perve on you and take lots of photos. Anyway, one of the daughters took us to the internet, where I failed to load photos... was SO bummed out! The evening was fun, as we were invited to dine with the family, which was so hospitable. One of the sisters did our Henna, and they burnt the pink rock the magi gave us for good luck and we breathed in the steam. It was a lovely way to say good bye to Kashmir, which was alright despite us not actually wanting to go there. The people were friendly and it was interesting, I am sure in the summer it is beautiful.

9th March- Were woken at the crack of dawn by a delightful fellow (sorry for the sarcasm Liam, I am trying to tone it down in this post!) called Rami who took us to the jeep to embark on our crazy journey to Jammu! We only realise on the 8th that in order to get to Amritsar we had to travel 9 hours to Jammu to get an overnight train... we had anticipated it was a dirct train of only a few hours! So we got in the Jeep with 5 indian locals and bumped all the way to Jammu. The first 4 hours were ok, there were funny monkeys on the side of the road and the scenery was beautiful- our photos do not do it justice! I challenged myself to do an entire shuffle on my i-pod, got to 713 songs... I know, I am a crazy kid! But after a few hours cramp set in and neither of us were in particularly good moods. To add insult to injury our driver was pretty much on a suicide mission. He insisted on taking over every car, it was like a game of chicken with on coming traffic!! I saw my life flash before my eyes on more than one occasion! We arrived in Jammu at 6.15 and then had to wait until 9.30 to board our overnight train... although it was not overnight... it stopped at 2am... you can only imagine the expressions on our faces when the rather rude and brash tyicket officer woke us up and bundled us off into Amritsar!

10th March- Amritsar was beautiful and it was a relief not to be in Srinagar anymore! Although the people at the hotel were a******s, whats new hey!? We visited the Sikh Golden Temple, which was truly spectacular, and was very peaceful and enjoyable. Then we visited Jallianwala Bagh, which is a public garden dedicated to the death of 2000 peaceful indian demonstrators brutally murdered by the British Troops in 1951. It was lovely to see such respect to those who sacrificed themselves, although we did feel a tad awkward! We went to the Tower of Baba Atal, which is 9 stories and id considered the tallest building in Amritsar... some spectacular views. I bought some trousers, bracelets and Jasmine slippers, so I feel a little more indian now... still stick out like a sore thumb! In the evening we had a girly evening of Pizza and movies- 'The Break up' and 'The Matrix' made me feel right at home!

11th March- Spent the day at the Summer Palace if Maharaja Ranjit Singh (his name reminds me of the Moulin Rouge... god how dense do I sound!) we sunbathed in the garden and enjoyed the history behind the 18th century leader, which involved an entertaining panorama hehe. We had a crazy Tuk tuk driver who tried to find us an internet cafe... I think he was mad as he laughed the whole way and took us nowhere... well he did take us to visit his family... a little strange. Anyway, long story short we did not find an internet cafe sadly. We ate Dominoes that evening!!! I was very excited!! And then had to wait 6 hours for our overnight train to Delhi as it was at midnight... stupid recpetionist made us pay for a whole other night accomodation just to sit in the room, b******, but oh well, we made it on the train. It was not comfortable, and indian men snore alot, but we got to Delhi in one piece.

12th March- FINALLY... I have got to today! We were picked up from the train station at 7am by our driver 'Kessy' who will be taking us all around Rajesthan. Without a moment to gather our thoughts we were in the car on the next 6 hour leg of our journey to bloody Madawa! I swear I have seen more of the inside of cars than actually india! After a crazy, hot and gross drive down we made it here at 3pm. The hotel is gorgeously decorated and we are lucky to have got such great accomodation... one of the few things going right! Finally have found internet from a sweet 10 year old boy in a shop, nice kid!

Anyway, have to go email some peeps,but miss you all. I am well, dont worry mum, and things should get better from now on... although I am dreading another 6 hour drive to Bikaner tomorrow... oh the joys of being screwed over by the natives! Love to you all xxxxxxxx