My two weeks in Kenya have been absolutely incredible. I was here, with my cousin Georgie, for work experience at a safari lodge called "Sabuk" which is in the Laikipia Plateau. The buildings resemble the set of "Tarzan" and the mess overlooks the rock which was the inspiration for Pride Rock in "The Lion King". All the rooms are open so you wake with the sun rise and have the most beautiful views from every angle. However, because of this, every now and then your sleep can be disturbed by a rock hyrax (a rodent that is about the size of a rabbit) who is completely harmless but emits deafeningly high pitched screeches. Sabuk is thoroughly isolated (the closest town is Nanyuki which is a 2-3 hour drive along bumpy dirt roads, more affectionately known as "African massage roads") and the lodge itself is completely embedded into the hillside. Naturally the soundtrack for our entire stay was the Broadway version of "The Lion King" and we felt compelled to reenact the opening sequence of the circle of life (a hat acting as substitute for Simba).

The lodge is really involved in the local community; from sponsoring school fees, teaching the local women how to make paper out of elephant dung to encouraging families to diversify from cattle farming being their only source of income. The Sabuk-sponsored project which was being embarked on whilst I was there was the building of a girls' dormitory at the school.

At Sabuk, all the staff are members of the local tribes (mostly Samburu). They all have deceivingly Western names
(like Daniel, Anthony and Gus) but they dress in their full tribal gear which includes a feather headress and a large knife which they wear on their waist (and is often draped with a tea towel when they emerge from the kitchens).

For the first half of our stay there weren't any guests so we helped Verity (the lady who owns and runs the lodge) with bits and bobs around the lodge but for the majority of the time we were thoroughly spoiled. Everyday we went on walks/camel rides/swims in the river with our guides Gus and Robert who would help us spot the various animals/plants etc. On one of our early morning walks we were greeted by a surprise breakfast at the peak of one of the ridges where we were served a full cooked breakfast. During our stay we saw hippo, elephant, giraffe, zebra, warthog, baboons and lots of antelope/gazelle type things in particular the stunning Great Acoudo which we saw from our balcony. One day we spent the day picnicking beside the river which we reached by camel. After lunch we were handed a fishing rod each (i.e. a fat twig with a wire and hook attached) and set about trying to catch our first fish. I managed to catch 3 and Georgie caught 1... Meanwhile the guide who was sitting beside us with a much more impressive rod remained fish-less (much to the amusement of the rest of the guides).

We also had a chance to experience the local community; visiting the primary school and attending a Samburu wedding. The groom was 19 and the bride was only 12 who, at one point, we found crying behind a bush. The marriages are arranged by the fathers who agree a price (e.g. 7 goat) of which they will give half when they are married, and the rest when the bride becomes pregnant. Although we were shocked by their youth; we were told that actually she was, in fact, quite lucky; it was not uncommon for men in their 40s to be married to a second wife who could be as young as 10. The ceremony itself was amazing; lots of bright colours and traditional dancing and singing. Georgie and I were made to join in the dancing which involved us being circled by the ladies from the tribe while they shouted in our faces and cocked their heads backwards and forwards in a chicken-like manner.... It was highly embarrassing and I couldn't help but feel like I was reenacting a scene from "Bridget Jones"...

For the latter half of our stay the lodge was full and so we were kept busy helping prepare surprise bush breakfasts, organising picnic baskets, ensuring there were enough sundowners etc etc.

When it was our time to leave we were very reluctant to go. Whilst driving to the airstrip, a herd of elephant paraded right past the car- what a send off!

We then flew to nairobi where we would be spending two nights with Tamsin (who organises the bookings for Sabuk) and her family. Upon our arrival we were told that Verity had already called and had said how we hadn't seen a lion and so plans were made to visit Nairobi national park the following day. At the park we saw a lioness (mission completed!) aswell as rhino, warthog, baboons, lots of zebra and a couple of giraffe who were within touching distance.

Later today I fly to Hong Kong where I'm meeting Alice to spend 6 weeks travelling around China by train. I can't quite believe my time in Africa is over already... But for now, here's to the next continent! JHJ