From Shanghai we flew to Hong Kong where we then hopped over the Pacific to Fiji. Our flight gave us a taste of what our stay was going to be like; smiley air hostesses with flowers behind their ears and fellow passengers strumming away on ukuleles- it was set to be a friendly trip. We disembarked to three men in flowery shirts singing various welcome songs to guitars as we waited to pass through customs. The Fijian greeting of "Bula!" was quickly burnt into our vocabulary. Something else that didn't take us long to adapt to was "Fiji time"; where clocks slow until their movement is positively elastic providing a convenient excuse for everything and anything.

We spent our first night on mainland Nadi before a fortnight spent island-hopping between the Yasawa and Mamanuca islands (all of which are north of the mainland). We bought a "Bula Pass" which essentially gave us unlimited travel on a bright-yellow, high-speed catamaran named "The Yasawa Flyer" which wiggles it's way between the islands everyday. From the Flyer, a small motorboat from the resort at which you're staying pulls up alongside as your bags are precariously tossed in and you are told to climb aboard. Then a quick journey and welcome talk as the white sand, palm trees and volcanic peaks come into focus. As you reach the shore, you are handed a tropical "bula drink" and sung yet another welcome song. When you leave you are also sung a farewell song both of which are angelic... It seems impossible for a Fijian not to have a beautiful singing voice!

We spent two nights on each island; our first stop was on the northern-most island of Nacula on which the beaches were divine. Our "dorm" slept three people and was a stone's throw to the beach. The beach itself was beyond beautiful; turquoise water with underwater coral shading it streaks of navy as it lapped against the pearly white sand... We kept on having to pinch ourselves- we were convinced we'd stumbled upon paradise! On the Sunday whilst we were there we attended a church service in the local village. Everyone put on their Sunday best; the men swapping their sarongs for long, pinstriped kilts, little girls put in pretty dresses and boys knotted into ties which reached their knees. Conducted in Fijian and interluded by the most mesmerising singing where the congregation effortlessly fell into perfect harmonies; it was so special and played on our minds for the rest of the afternoon.

From Nacula we headed to Naviti, home to the only stretch of protected coral and therefore some insane snorkelling. Like skimming above an aquarium, the crystal clear water enabled us to see a colourful erray of exotic fish amongst the coral. Our snorkels, masks, reef shoes and underwater camera quickly became essential beach bag items! Naviti is also famous for being the seasonal home of mantarays- huge but harmless flat fish whose radius spans 4-5m on average. As our stay coincided with "Manta Season" we were hopeful to snorkel with them but disappointingly it appears that they haven't reached Fiji yet... Perhaps their clocks are also set to Fiji time! While we were on Naviti we witnessed... And took part in... some traditional Fijian fire dancing which was hilarious and at parts resembled a bouncy Gay Gordons!

After Naviti we went to an island called "Waya" where the dorm was substituted by a traditional thatched bure. On our second day, we were fortunate that grey skies coincided with our trip to the local village of Nalauwaki. Nalauwaki was composed of lots of little thatched houses from which smiling faces emerged calling "Bula!". We were shown around by the Mayor of the village who took us to the kindergarten where we were sung nursery rhymes in both English and Fijian. The children were absolutely adorable; Alice and I received lots of cuddles and even had our hair restyled! We then left the school, waved off by lots of little people hanging out of windows as we made our way to the local craft market. The ladies had made beautiful handicrafts; from traditional Fijian masks to jewellery made out of shells. The village and the resort rely upon one another; the village providing an army of friendly staff and the resort giving vital school sponsorships amongst other means of support. The people were so proud of their village and we felt privileged to have been welcomed so intimately. On Waya we also took part in a traditional tribal welcome ceremony; where you sit cross legged around a big bowl of "Kava" which is drunk from a hollowed-out coconut between a particular combination of claps. Kava is a drink made from the root of a pepper plant and the only thing I could compare it to was the taste of muddy water whilst having the effect of a mild anaesthetic... It was very strange to say the least!

From Waya we went to an island called "Beachcomber" to spend a night. Notoriously known as the "party island" and skeptical of its reputation we weren't sure what to expect. However, it turned out to be a great laugh and definitely met up to its reputation!

We spent our last few days soaking up as much Fijian sunshine as we could between a place called Long Beach and the island of Bounty. We then reluctantly headed back to the mainland today for our last night before our flights tomorrow.

We've loved every island we stayed on but they were all totally different. All of them had their authentic Fijian charm intact and the people were flawlessly friendly. It's a really sociable place to be and we met some great people from all over the word. Island-hopping means the friendships are fleeting and there's many a goodbye, however, a bit like being in a supermarket: you find yourself bumping into the same people aisle to aisle; island to island. As our time away draws to a close, we find ourselves again wondering where the weeks have gone as Alice heads home and I go to my last stop in LA. It's fair to say we have fallen in love with Fiji, and will be leaving sun kissed, having met some great people and had a taste of true Fijian life... But most importantly having finally mastered the art of getting into, and out of a hammock smoothly. Vinaka Fiji!

JH-J